In Fine Print

In Fine Print

From Picasso, to Banksy and Mr Brainwash, Salita Nanda reinterprets art pieces through her unique rendering of hand illustrated prints in satiny draped dresses. By Asmita Aggarwal Born and raised in London, Salita Nanda studied at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, and then further honed her skills at ...
“Embroidery is our DNA,” says Ashdeen

“Embroidery is our DNA,” says Ashdeen

Dutch artist Patrick Bergsma and his broken ceramic pottery where bonsai grows is where Ashdeen found his stimuli, though his simple shapes complement the complex needlework techniques he uses to offer modern jackets.   By Asmita Aggarwal Ashdeen Z. Lilaowala is a trained textile designer from the National Institute of ...
Builder’s daughter Monisha Jaising constructs ‘bling’

Builder’s daughter Monisha Jaising constructs ‘bling’

35 years in style business, the doyen believes, her biggest contribution has been keeping alive classic Indian ethos. By Asmita Aggarwal Her father was one of the biggest builders in Mumbai, specially the Bandra area, though he taught at the London School of Economics for many years too. Narain Bhojwani ...
80% feeling, 20% aesthetic sells a garment: Dhruv Kapoor

80% feeling, 20% aesthetic sells a garment: Dhruv Kapoor

Dhruv Kapoor brings his PSS (print, surface and silhouette) tastes to the Denim Edit by FDCI, at LFW as he handpaints, laminates, embroiders the versatile fabric. By Asmita Aggarwal He is a regular at Milan Fashion Week, and his 10-year-old brand, was nominated earlier for the International Woolmark Prize, but ...
“I wanted to dress like my father,” Pranav Mishra

“I wanted to dress like my father,” Pranav Mishra

Huemn may be his alter ego, but the designer behind it calls himself a storyteller, who loves the possibilities of what denim can do; this season, he takes on a new journey by recycling creating invigorating landscapes in his anti-fit everything. By Asmita Aggarwal There is a huge conundrum between ...
Luck doesn’t help, focus does: Payal

Luck doesn’t help, focus does: Payal

From her backless cholis to Aishwarya Rai wearing her award-winning Anarkali, Payal Singhal in 25 years of business has been consistent leaving theatrics to greenhorns, adopting practicality for survival. By Asmita Aggarwal Payal Singhal completes 25 years in the business of fashion, and if there is one designer who truly ...
“Armani taught me to be me,” says Ankur of Til

“Armani taught me to be me,” says Ankur of Til

Whether it was working with Armani or Bottega Veneta, even Sabyasachi, Ankur believes good design is instinctive, that’s why his latest line for LFWX FDCI is experimental, comfortable and inclusive. By Asmita Aggarwal He lost his grandmother, whom he was closest to in the family during Covid, she would always ...
A & T celebrate inconsistencies

A & T celebrate inconsistencies

Discarded cassette tapes, toffee wrappers, bin bags are now RTW and make for new-age embellishment, as the trio Thakore, Abraham and Nigli tell us “What we buy and how we buy” is of brevity at their LFWXFDCI show. By Asmita Aggarwal Shefali Shah is a thinking actress, chooses her roles, ...
Greenwashing is rampant in fashion: Drishti

Greenwashing is rampant in fashion: Drishti

Drishti Modi and Rashmick Bose of Lafaani, CDC runner ups, bring circularity through unrestricted shapes, kala cotton and their love for repurposing. By Asmita Aggarwal She is a big movie buff, so the brand name is a result of binge-watching cinema, although alternate, thus Lafaani, was picked from the dialogue ...
Bill Clinton told us to be at MOMA: Gautam Malik

Bill Clinton told us to be at MOMA: Gautam Malik

Making bags out of discarded seat belts, the JNU kid, who grew up with a father who taught quantum physics is today building a sustainable community one gilet at a time with his brand Jaggery. If Apple can sell electronics, why can't jaggery sell bags? By Asmita Aggarwal Former US President ...
Batik has unique monotones: Madhumita

Batik has unique monotones: Madhumita

Working with Batik master craftsman Shakil Khatri for the last ten years in Gujarat, to revive the 1000-year-old tradition using vegetable dyes, Madhumita Nath of Ek Katha hopes to serenade a young audience with reimagined crafts.  By Asmita Aggarwal She studied textiles at NIFT Mumbai and JJ School of Art, ...
CDC winner’s clothes with a conscience

CDC winner’s clothes with a conscience

Life took a turn for the better from seeing his grandfather’s dyeing unit polluting, to now only dealing with second hand garments, reconstructing them into new shapes, Ritwik Khanna, 25, of Rkive City is a force to reckon with. By Asmita Aggarwal This generation is something else---they really know what ...
Ujjawal’s 10th with homage to “self”

Ujjawal’s 10th with homage to “self”

Antar-Agni as the name suggests is a journey within—thus his unisex label is a lot more than just layering, drapes and lapels, it is an exploration of the meaning of luxury, and why its connotations change to cater to an individualistic mind. By Asmita Aggarwal Some things in life are ...
Arundhati Roy, Mira Nair, Kiran Rao and me share common artistic goals: Aneeth Arora

Arundhati Roy, Mira Nair, Kiran Rao and me share common artistic goals: Aneeth Arora

From little hearts floating on smocked dresses, Hello Kitty nostalgia, to intensive embroidery details, as well as design interventions on textiles, Aneeth Arora celebrates 15 years of Pero with a FDCI show at LFW. It has been a long road from Udaipur to creating a million-dollar business for this craft ...
Dressing Big B

Dressing Big B

The Sun and Moon two stars have fascinated Archana Rao thus the moniker for her LFW X FDCI 2024 line, but she is excited to have done costumes for Amitabh Bachchan, Deepika Padukone and Kamal Haasan in Kalki 2898 AD, creating futuristic character sketches! By Asmita Aggarwal Hyderabad-based Archana Rao is ...
The War Within

The War Within

Bomb blasts, barren land, soldier writings on walls and stones, how war destroys the fabric of mankind and its futility has been beautifully mirrored through deft stitches by Sushant Abrol’s label Countrymade. By Asmita Aggarwal From writing poetry, to working with 8-10 needlework techniques, using imagery of his late Air ...
Moon Power

Moon Power

Paying homage to the moon landing and India’s homegrown space programme Pearl Academy students delve into the future to showcase how it could be the next vacation destination through metallics, anti-gravity hair and hybrid ensembles. By Asmita Aggarwal The Chandrayaan-3 mission, was a homegrown one, as the country reached the lunar south polar region, “India ...
Sari Stories

Sari Stories

From jersey to satin Shweta Kapoor’s saris tell us you can walk the talk with this slithering drape, as she adds an 80s touch to it, this season. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Brand by Hand

Brand by Hand

Giving leather longevity through contemporary design, Sonal Varma of Rara Avis, offers versatile shapes for a global traveller. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
The last ‘resort’

The last ‘resort’

Offering sustainable fabrics, swimwear with reversible styles and interesting prints, Reby Kumar of Guapa is embarking on, making dressing for your next holiday under the palms, super comfortable. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Engineered embroidery

Engineered embroidery

From embroidery created out of scrap, to making even the motifs move along as you wear the ensemble Anurag Gupta woos the unusual. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Lost Tribes

Lost Tribes

Tribal imagery comes alive in Aseem Kapoor’s free size, super comfy offerings for women who choose practicality over transient shine. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Study of contrasts

Study of contrasts

Anju Modi is paying homage to “white weddings”, with signature crafts and a wish to move away from conventional palettes. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Bead Seeds

Bead Seeds

From launching various verticals to the mothership brand Geisha Designs, Paras and Shalini this year elevate embellishment with corsetry and serenade the extended family with their love for Victorian needle work and beads. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Revisiting Memories

Revisiting Memories

15 years and making a mark with classics from the stable, Pankaj and Nidhi combine their strengths from dori work to quilting, creating affable tuxedo jackets and trumpet skirts. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Right Strokes

Right Strokes

Swimwear mavericks, and now ski wear experts, Shivan and Narresh offer us a glimpse of Finland through their specially crafted prints combined with hand painting. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Spinning Luxury

Spinning Luxury

“Handspun” is Himanshu Shani’s leitmotif this LFW, as he celebrates innately Indian techniques and processes from Bandhej to Ajrak and natural indigo dyeing making a play for incorporating kala cotton in Gen Z style lexicon   By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Social Intelligence

Social Intelligence

Anjali Mehta Patel, a first timer in Delhi is hoping to wow buyers with her au naturale offerings constructed with Bemberg, replete with India stories done in heady prints. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Crafting a legacy

Crafting a legacy

Working with renowned weaver Prasanta Basak to offer a new language of Indian clothing, Swatti Kapoor is hoping to elevate the humble salwar-kameez, with innovative substitutes in natural fabrics. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Simple Thinking

Simple Thinking

Ka-Sha completes ten years in fashion, she infuses the line with imagery of emotions replicated through the prism of relaxed clothing, and monochromes as bead work becomes a show stealer. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Retro Revival

Retro Revival

Think disco, bell bottoms, Manhattan’s Studio 54 and Ashish Soni’s play with the oversized, androgynous look —-strong shoulders and suiting materials as his forte tailoring, takes centerstage. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Motorcycle Diaries

Motorcycle Diaries

Riding, and utility make a play in Abhishek Paatni’s line that takes us back to the simple joys of life, finding peace through biking and urging us to slow down, choosing the wild road less travelled up the mountains. By Asmita Aggarwal You would imagine an MBA and engineer to ...
Sari Stories

Sari Stories

The tuxedo blouse, wide lapels, geometric shapes, hints of metallic glitter, ode to charcoals, the boy from Mubarikpur Sanjay Garg of Raw Mango, told us the sari is as cool as a floor sweeping, Paris-returned gown. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Tiger Tales

Tiger Tales

Couturier Rahul Mishra is a conversation starter, a dialogue initiator that’s why couture for him is about a narrative that transcends the discussion about silhouettes, shapes or forms. ICW 2023 was an ode to sequins, flowers and the king of the jungle!  By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Khadi Sutra

Khadi Sutra

His take on the South Indian Mundu with the woven border kara, pleasing monochromes, delectable stripes, and restrained shine, just like the couturier Rajesh Pratap Singh was befitting at his first outing, redefining luxury at ICW 2023. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Pearls of Wisdom

Pearls of Wisdom

Dolly J uses the radiance of pearls to add glow to her army of gowns, as couture transcends from glitter to subtle. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Aroma of Roses

Aroma of Roses

Isha J debuts with a line with the perfect showstopper the curvaceous Vani Kapoor, displaying a collection that combined Chikankari with lace, and of course ‘sinful’ washboard abs. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Layered Intrusions

Layered Intrusions

Serenading layering, separates and fluidity the market-savvy brothers Shantnu and Nikhil, complete 24 years with almost 16 stores domestically. At ICW they managed to add dollops of deliciousness with Aditya Roy Kapur and the pint sized beauty  Sara Ali Khan. But the coup was Nikhil Mehra’s 16-year-old son Vivhan, making his ...
Wizards of Time

Wizards of Time

From ‘Fibonacci’ to ‘Equinox’, the admiration for Maths and its lasting solutions have fascinated the duo, who have been on this creative journey together for 25 years, and counting. ICW 2023 was about romancing 3D embroideries and just like their themes, the precision it echoes, is mirrored in cuts. By ...
Artist at Work

Artist at Work

No artificial intelligence here, just plain, old techniques that still capture the essence of luxury, controlling materials which have a mind of their own is Rimzim Dadu’s specialty. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Elegance in motion

Elegance in motion

Even though nothing is for ‘Eternity”, in this ephemeral human world, except change, whether it is love or integrity, Tarun Tahiliani proves, it can be, with an unmatched ode to elegance, in his distinct style, urging us to “love and relove” at ICW 2023.  By Asmita Aggarwal ...
The World Within

The World Within

Anamika’s 25 year journey has been one of revelation and grandeur, this year too, she brings alive the magic of zardosi and pearls her two constant companions, expressions of love, with some unadulterated charm added by the lithe Athiya Shetty. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Past Is Now

Past Is Now

The past always finds an embellished way to catch up with the present in J J Valaya’s offerings which came drizzling with Sufi music by a live band headed by Sahil Vasudeva and of course some embroidered swans frolicking on midnight blue lehengas. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Religion of Clothing

Religion of Clothing

Festive chocolates, décor, precious jewellery (in the future), to designing lights, Kunal Rawal is a lot more than his first love -- menswear and of course Bollywood sizzler Ranbir Kapoor his show stealer at the ICW 2023. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Floriography

Floriography

Varun Bahl believes couture must appeal to a woman who is aware, responsible, and wants to be original in thought and choice of occasion clothing. Though his love for flowers remains constant, just like his passion for monochromes. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Romantacy

Romantacy

From friendships to shine, Suneet Varma is a bundle of commitments and never shies away from either risqué bustiers, nor fiery reds. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Wooed by Nostalgia

Wooed by Nostalgia

Couture reflects changing cultural norms, Ritu Kumar, and son Amrish, believe fine craftsmanship and customisation makes this genre a powerhouse. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Glittering Plumes

Glittering Plumes

The Peacocks—Shane and Falguni offer brides a commitment to unabashed shine, they unleash a rush of blush pinks and a deluge of crystals, as the lissom Kiara Advani takes centre stage! By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Parked at Neutral

Parked at Neutral

Gender bender is the name of the game, as grand finale designer Rajesh Pratap flirts with stainless steel, continues his romance with khadi and pleating without abandoning his reverence for Japanese tying techniques, embracing volume. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Zen Mind

Zen Mind

Applique is rendered on boxy kimono shapes reminiscent of Japan, a recurring leitmotif in Pankaj and Nidhi’s collection. While Paras and Sonam Modi combine their signature stripes with Chikankari, channeling less is more! By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Light is right

Light is right

Nikita M brings with her the tropical breeze of Bali in her swaying palm prints, while Shyamal and Bhumika keep it light with dhoti pants and shararas, as Pawan Sachdeva ups the fun quotient with his roomy pyjamas and leatherite patchwork pants. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Happiness Code

Happiness Code

From winning a National Award to offering silhouettes which channel ease, Nachiket Barve, believes customization is the key to the future. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Hidden Pearls

Hidden Pearls

From Ajrah, to ungendering and changing shapes using the drawstring technique, Pearl Academy students tell us easy is the new cool at the FDCIxLFW showcase By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Light of her own

Light of her own

Practical and affordable are two key players in Payal Singhal’s stable, as this year she returns to the canvas of optimism and paints the colours of joy! By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Sari whisperer

Sari whisperer

From recreating 35 Raja Ravi Varma paintings, which took five years, 200 kg of yarn, 600 shades into detailed traditional saris to introducing Jamdani ghagras in sindoori red this year, Gaurang Shah, is a master of innovations. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Viva La Vida

Viva La Vida

From law to design, Aisha Rao captures the French influence on Catalonia, as the Sagrada Família Basilica and the mosaics of Park Güell form the basis of her line “Trencadis”. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Beach Ready

Beach Ready

From being a criminal lawyer to starting a brand, Saaksha Bhat partners with sister-in-law Kinnari Kamat, to let women enjoy pleats, mirror work and acid wash denims. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Future Perfect

Future Perfect

Reflective garments, colours that change as they touch the body, Akshat Bansal, is looking at making Bloni, a brand for the future, as he works with chainmail and recycled mesh this season By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Journey Within

Journey Within

Hyderabad-based Anand Kabra returns to the runway with separates crafted in silk, paying homage to things he holds dear---from his city’s cultural mix to his grandma's tussar sari. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Blending Ideologies

Blending Ideologies

The past meets the present paving the way for the future as Abraham and Thakore reinvent weaves, encourage sustainability with restyling and demonstrate how in their 30-year journey, timeless is the only trend they believe in! By Asmita Aggarwal ...