Voluminous Sculpting

Voluminous Sculpting

Giant moths on chests, cutwork forests on body huggers and you throw in a little of Henri Rousseau and a children book, The Fox and the Star, you get Rahul Mishra’s inspiration behind his LFW X FDCI 2024 AFEW line.    By Asmita Aggarwal Would you ever wear the wing of a ...
No Gender Coding

No Gender Coding

There is a ‘fragility in masculinity’ and Arjun Saluja finds this conundrum a collection-worthy theme. After six years he is back at the FDCI showcase at LFW with his gender bender clothing hoping to solve the puzzle of conditioning or at least question it! By Asmita Aggarwal Frankly, in fashion there ...
Revisiting roots

Revisiting roots

Whether it is Gaza, Kashmir, Syria or Ukraine, human exodus is captured poignantly through embroideries and embellishments as well as abstract outlines by the maverick Sushant Abrol of the menswear label Countrymade. By Asmita Aggarwal He had a child-like excitement every time he begins work on a new collection and ...
“In India sex, humour, and politics sells”

“In India sex, humour, and politics sells”

Jay Jajal founder of Jaywalking will tell you he is returning to simplicity, is excited about his ‘test fit’ garment, calls his drawings ugly and reveals his USP is that he is a fabulous marketeer! By Asmita Aggarwal Jay Jajal aspired to be a rapper, and he thanks his good ...
Unmasking AI

Unmasking AI

Almost 36 Pearl students showcase the benefits and pitfalls of AI in “AI is contagious”, at LFW X FDCI 2024 with an interesting display of ideas through pixelation, distortions and translucency. By Asmita Aggarwal London, Milan, New York, and Paris, and India Fashion Week, almost over, fashion houses are ready ...
Measuring Up

Measuring Up

S and N, the brothers Shantnu and Nikhil have replaced the mini "It" bag and given it to men, in dhotis and sexiness with abundant leg show for women along with dollops of shimmer. While quite the opposite was post-Soviet modest label Measure, which revealed the former Communist country is ...
Ready for a swim?

Ready for a swim?

Saaksha Bhat and Kinnari Kamat launch a swimwear edition, complete with their signature micro pleating, and elevate it with quilting and ikat. But the Gujarati genes hold strong with their unadulterated love for mirror work! By Asmita Aggarwal Saaksha Bhat and her sister-in-law Kinnari Kamat, understand embroideries like no one ...
Monochrome Contrasts

Monochrome Contrasts

Ritika Mirchandani offers tone-on-tone, summer pastels with placement bling for occasion wear this season. By Asmita Aggarwal “My mother has been the most inspiring figure in my life. As a designer herself, she introduced me to the world of fashion from a very young age. Growing up surrounded by her ...
Princess of style

Princess of style

Niloufer Khanum of Hyderabad was the OG of fashion influencers with her Westernising the sari, adding exquisite pearls and it is this regality that Anushree Reddy recreates in organzas this season for the bride who chooses subtle shine over overt bling. By Asmita Aggarwal It has been a ten-year long ...
AK is Ok

AK is Ok

The twins Vishesh and Viraj, one an artist, and the other born with a business acumen, embarked on a journey to give their mom Anamika Khanna a respite when they started AK-OK, but now it has a legion of followers owing to its unpredictable prints, placements raw embroideries, tattered denims ...
Alpha Women

Alpha Women

 Inca or incarnation by Amit Hansraj is for women who are mature, confident and know that clothes are extension of them not the other way round and it is this individuality that he hopes to celebrate each season. By Asmita Aggarwal Amit Hansraj has been in the fashion world for ...
Think Chill

Think Chill

Remember The Jetsons, and the 90s trend Vaporwave? Kanika Goyal brings that shiny high gloss vibe to the line she has designed for the American brand Skechers. By Asmita Aggarwal After four years at NIFT Delhi and then Parsons New York, where she studied for two years, Kanika Goyal was ...
An evening Soiree

An evening Soiree

Paras and Shalini of Geisha Designs offer sundowner clothing complete with cording, macrame, as nostalgia remains their anthem for this season, creating the various elements of nature, through fabric manipulations. By Asmita Aggarwal Olsen twins label The Row banned phones in their showcase recently at the Paris Fashion Week 2024 ...
Right to Repair

Right to Repair

Ashita Singhal started as a curious fashion student wanting to know how to upcycle waste, and that’s how Paiwand, her label was conceptualized. Winning the Nexa Spotlight and telling us that re-woven is austerity personified; she is consciously saving the planet one less stitch at a time. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Hoops of Hope

Hoops of Hope

Nitya Arora of the accessories brand Valliyan celebrates its 15th anniversary by paying tribute to bugs and beetles, quiet warriors, in a new sci-fi avatar, who help balance our fragile eco-system through her brass and copper gold plated jewellery. By Asmita Aggarwal The brand got its name from her grandmother’s blessings, ...
Wear Calm

Wear Calm

Urvashi Kaur had all the makings of a hit show—a bevy of intellectuals from Ratna Pathak Shah to Rasika Duggal as well as relaxed clothing armed with natty wraps, coppery saris, easy tie ups that announced the arrival of a comfortable spring, as she completed 15 years in the business ...
Valaya on wheels

Valaya on wheels

From Chevrons to inclusivity, J J Valaya tells us individualistic women are the most fun to interact with and that his bridge line JJV Kapurthala is only helping you dress quicker and smarter. Asmita Aggarwal The shifting leaf Chevron which is the staple of JJ Valaya’s fashion house, was created ...

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Anish Malpani CDC winner tells us his journey from being a finance honcho in the US to recycling chip wrappers into chic eyewear, as he hopes to build a waste-free world where you wear his “Without” sunnies sans any guilt. Asmita Aggarwal Both his parents are doctors and till the ...
Simple Weaves

Simple Weaves

Gaurav Jai Gupta takes you on a journey to watch a Wes Anderson film through his ingenious weaving techniques, blazing ochres and endearing ‘kinji’ saris in 'Moonrise'.  Asmita Aggarwal When you must fight for everything you get, you take nothing for granted, and sometimes that story of struggle becomes a ...
One size fits all

One size fits all

Chola by Sohaya Misra is back after five years to tell us clothes must be alive, have movement and adjustable, defying conventional norms of dressing according to your size and body type.                                     ...
‘Sari is the Chanel of luxury’

‘Sari is the Chanel of luxury’

Hand woven and timeless Gaurang Shah for LFW X FDCI 2024 is back with an ode to spring with ‘Gulal’, with hand painted charkha woven khadi saris. Asmita Aggarwal Designer Gaurang Shah, won the National Film Award for Best Costume Designer in the Telugu film Mahanati, directed by Nag Ashwin, ...
Dressing Big B

Dressing Big B

The Sun and Moon two stars have fascinated Archana Rao thus the moniker for her LFW X FDCI 2024 line, but she is excited to have done costumes for Amitabh Bachchan, Deepika Padukone and Kamal Haasan in Kalki 2898 AD, creating futuristic character sketches! By Asmita Aggarwal Hyderabad-based Archana Rao is ...
Gandhi’s vision 3.0

Gandhi’s vision 3.0

The FDCI and KVIC show proved Khadi is the fabric of the future! Khadi is no longer stiff and just meant for the intelligentsia, now it is fine, supple and malleable bringing with it modern shapes and quirky prints, serenading a fast-moving GenZ. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Poetry in Motion

Poetry in Motion

Varun and Nidhika welcome the return of ivories, while Mahima Majahan pays a floral tribute to Gulzar sabeb’s couplets. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
M for Mixed bag

M for Mixed bag

Risqué, youthful and sequinned, Manish Malhotra lets us into his world where he leaves behind elaborateness and serenades sass. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Despair to Hope

Despair to Hope

The Pearl Academy talented final year students of fashion design, show us how silhouettes can display human emotions, the crisis civilisation faces with wars to earthquakes, through hand made garments which exude confidence, and reveal skilled processes. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Classic Rendering

Classic Rendering

Dhruv Vaish’s three-month long stay in Naples learning from the best tailoring geniuses can be seen reflecting in the timeless fits. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
The Furrows

The Furrows

Two designers Ritika Mirchandani and Bhumika Sharma reveal how their mothers shaped their creative destiny motivating them to launch eponymous labels with a focus on creating a unique language of prints By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Creating Calm

Creating Calm

The transition from Swapnil Shinde to Saisha, also transformed the brand offering, making wearability the key and elegance the superpower. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Theory of colours

Theory of colours

Siddhartha Bansal plays with the hues of life, as he crafts new shapes using optical illusion and sheer curiosity leaving us in admiration of his fluid, layered offerings. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Return to the Core

Return to the Core

Shahin Mannan creates harmony with the circle at the centre, while Arpita Mehta offers ease with a line you can holiday in effortlessly. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Vagabonding

Vagabonding

The travels to offbeat destinations find a way into Neelanjan and Kanika’s collection replete with motifs that leave a lasting memory in their label Jajaabor. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
On the Other Side of Silence

On the Other Side of Silence

From an almost fatal accident to starting a menswear brand TISA Studio, Samira Lavekar’s journey has been inspirational. This season, artist Zarina Hashmi’s ode to linearity, Partition and spirituality through art, forms the edifice of her collection. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Law of lines

Law of lines

Deepit Chugh’s label Line Outline offers a complete wardrobe solution for men with sharp tailoring intermingled with sporty aesthetics. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Ground Reality

Ground Reality

Brother and sister team Avni and Ambar join forces to offer edgy streetwear infused with the energy and tales of their fervent travels in Six5Six. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
The Last Act

The Last Act

Ujjawal Dubey’s ode to Portuguese writer Pessoa’s works comes through his monochromes, pleating and sharp draped constructions. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Ink-ing a green future

Ink-ing a green future

Ink from exhaust fumes carbon, or Air Ink will define our relationship with the way we print and dye believes Nitin Bal Chauhan, as he channels sustainability and begins a much-needed conversation about conservation. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Blue-Eyed Fabric of Life

Blue-Eyed Fabric of Life

Liquid molten metallics have fascinated the runways, but Gaurav Jai Gupta takes it a step forward with his glazed appeal, this season. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Something new and Borrowed

Something new and Borrowed

Iro Iro run by the intrepid Bhaavya Goenka, who uses upcycling techniques to create a community wardrobe where versatility remains the key By Asmita Aggarwal ...
‘Life is my muse’

‘Life is my muse’

Sudheer Rajbhar is set to go global with a show in Canada, this April, as his FDCI X Lakme line titled “Boot Polish” highlights inequality and class divide that still persist. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Zero Waste Warriors

Zero Waste Warriors

Kriti Tula adds recycled to her upcycled offering with denims and handlooms taking centerstage in her sustainable language of clothing at Doodlage. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Parked at Neutral

Parked at Neutral

Gender bender is the name of the game, as grand finale designer Rajesh Pratap flirts with stainless steel, continues his romance with khadi and pleating without abandoning his reverence for Japanese tying techniques, embracing volume. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Zen Mind

Zen Mind

Applique is rendered on boxy kimono shapes reminiscent of Japan, a recurring leitmotif in Pankaj and Nidhi’s collection. While Paras and Sonam Modi combine their signature stripes with Chikankari, channeling less is more! By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Light is right

Light is right

Nikita M brings with her the tropical breeze of Bali in her swaying palm prints, while Shyamal and Bhumika keep it light with dhoti pants and shararas, as Pawan Sachdeva ups the fun quotient with his roomy pyjamas and leatherite patchwork pants. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Happiness Code

Happiness Code

From winning a National Award to offering silhouettes which channel ease, Nachiket Barve, believes customization is the key to the future. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Hidden Pearls

Hidden Pearls

From Ajrah, to ungendering and changing shapes using the drawstring technique, Pearl Academy students tell us easy is the new cool at the FDCIxLFW showcase By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Light of her own

Light of her own

Practical and affordable are two key players in Payal Singhal’s stable, as this year she returns to the canvas of optimism and paints the colours of joy! By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Sari whisperer

Sari whisperer

From recreating 35 Raja Ravi Varma paintings, which took five years, 200 kg of yarn, 600 shades into detailed traditional saris to introducing Jamdani ghagras in sindoori red this year, Gaurang Shah, is a master of innovations. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Viva La Vida

Viva La Vida

From law to design, Aisha Rao captures the French influence on Catalonia, as the Sagrada Família Basilica and the mosaics of Park Güell form the basis of her line “Trencadis”. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Beach Ready

Beach Ready

From being a criminal lawyer to starting a brand, Saaksha Bhat partners with sister-in-law Kinnari Kamat, to let women enjoy pleats, mirror work and acid wash denims. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Future Perfect

Future Perfect

Reflective garments, colours that change as they touch the body, Akshat Bansal, is looking at making Bloni, a brand for the future, as he works with chainmail and recycled mesh this season By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Journey Within

Journey Within

Hyderabad-based Anand Kabra returns to the runway with separates crafted in silk, paying homage to things he holds dear---from his city’s cultural mix to his grandma's tussar sari. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Blending Ideologies

Blending Ideologies

The past meets the present paving the way for the future as Abraham and Thakore reinvent weaves, encourage sustainability with restyling and demonstrate how in their 30-year journey, timeless is the only trend they believe in! By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Ode to Hope

Ode to Hope

Rina Singh of Eka ends size-sim, reimagines life after the world has witnessed the worst disaster as she narrates the story in Jamdani and pixelated motifs. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Wealth from Waste

Wealth from Waste

Repair and mend; recycle and upcycle, Pratyush Kumar’s label Pieux serenades circular fashion, giving each piece longevity. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Engineered Shapes

Engineered Shapes

An engineer by training who loves embroidery, self-taught Swapna Anumulu offers effortless pieces for occasion dressing. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
A Clean Cut

A Clean Cut

Master of tailoring and minimalism, Shahab Durazi never got trapped in the pursuit of fame or fortune, but kept his brand individualistic and meaningful, as he returned to the fashion week after decades of absence By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Emotional Education

Emotional Education

Mani Shanker Singh of SNOB removes ageism from his ensembles and abandons seasonal inspirations to create timeless, hybrid and universal clothing for men By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Son Rises

Son Rises

From couture, art to now menswear, Viraj and Vishesh Khanna have infused a sporty vibe into their new launch, gently nudging men to experiment with individualistic style. By Asmita Aggarwal ...