East Europe sends Payal Pratap on a trip to discover the glorious needlework techniques in an ethnographic portrayal as she displays her prowess with accessories
By Asmita Aggarwal
Payal Pratap may possess a famous surname, but that doesnt stop her from taking the road less travelled. The NIFT graduate, who launched her debut line in 2011, is designing jewellery for the first time, roped in with much persuasion by www.velvetcase.com, an online portal, based out of Mumbai run by Kapil Hetamsaria and Runit Shah. I did jewellery, albeit costume in my earlier lines, but this was a new experience designing a precious range of earrings. Though for SS 15 I have some jewels hidden up my sleeve, smiles Payal.
Accessories have been a mainstay for Payal, her obi belts and colourful brooches that she did for her Japanese line, inspired by the sonorous cherry blossoms, didnt go unnoticed and sold quite well. Footwear interests me and this time its a take off from the humble Kohlapuri, with a twist, it comes armed with vibrant heels, she explains.
Payal is one of the few style gurus, who is clear about targeting the domestic market with utilitarian prêt. I saw people really wanted something easy, free flowing which didnt require deft handling. I have always done what I want to whether it is in trend or not. Though my unbounded love for colours can be seen in the five seasons that I have shown, she confides.
And Payal hopes to tell a story each season, this time it spans from Romania, Poland to Bulgaria and Russia, in a line that is inspired by the colour and styles of East European countries, even though Payal hasnt had a chance to visit. SS 15 explores the folkloric culture of these countries, who somewhat have many things in common. From intricate threadwork, picturesque landscapes, geometric motifs and floral showers, she confesses. Payal has loved the ceramics, pottery and interesting needlework techniques which she has converted onto her peasant tops, gathered skirts, lightweight shapes in a palette which ranges from ecru, ivories to pops of colourmelon to fresh summer pink.
Payals strength remains using the most complicated treatments and chaotic hues in harmony on a single ensembles without it looking jarring. Sometimes I use 18 colours in a single print, it isnt easy but the results are spectacular, and it is just this that keeps me motivated, she concludes.