Lightness of Being

The idea was to keep the treatment complex but cutting techniques simple and ensure linearity in the silhouette, but Arjun Saluja achieved much more than what he set out to do. His mesmerizing shapes, pleated Patialas, precise slashing to create an effect, zipper details on dresses, jackets along with interestingly placed flaps, made it a heady Fall.

Rajesh’s Wooly Provenance

Much like the people of Punjab, the colourful threadwork executed in vibrant hues, Phulkari, made a sparkling entry, along with three showstoppers on the glitzy catwalk—Jacqueline Fernandes, Siddharth Malhotra and Esha Gupta. “I tend to work with one craft at a time, it was Kashmiri, then Chikankari, Phulkari has a certain unmistakable spunk, that creates a peppy mood, almost instantly,” says Manish. The front row was buzzing with veteran actress and Manish supporter Shabana Azmi, Pernia Qureshi and Malvika Poddar of Carma, but the dazzlers were the silk palazzos, net angarakhas, interesting gotta patti of sleeves and georgette shararas.

Traditionalism Meets Modernity

Plain plaits, with flowers, Bandhini saris draped across the waist deliciously, Zardosi collars peeping out of velvet jackets, asymmetrical dresses caressing lithe bodies and saffron adding a mystical edge, Tarun Tahiliani gave Maha Kumbh his heavenly experience, a spiritual twist as models walked down on the mesmerizing Sounds of Isha.

Red Carpet shine

Veteran designer Ashish N Soni wows with his clean, minimal line which saw a play of monochromes as he gets set to launch a sub-brand Ceremonia.

Gunmetal Feminism

Below all that metal, goth and rock is a heart that beats for women, Kanika Saluja Choudhary of the label Annaika is pro women in more ways than one. Not because her clothes are feminist, androgynous or as she says, “edgy” but also because she sticks to what she knows best. “It is a bit like Gaultier, and the Moulin Rouge woman, sexy at night and a feminine, working girl in the day, you know what you are good at, in time, you will master it,” she adds.

Dressing the Thinking Woman

There are few in the sea of designers who aspire to dress real women, with warts and all, and celebrate the beauty of simplicity, Sonam Dubal is one of them. Maybe that’s why it is not surprising he convinced the dark skinned artist Mithu Sen, in many ways his muse to pose for his shoot.

Melodious Prints

Pankaj and Nidhi blew their own trumpet, quite literally! With a line that would make even the God of Guitar Jimmy Page sit up and take notice. No, not just because there were musical instruments, creating melody in their signature lattice work or crewel embroidery, but because the duo takes pains over finishing each piece, giving it a distinct identity.

Gulzar sahib’s poetry, Frida’s activism and lipstick prints set the mood on Day 1

Just like Gulzar sahib’s poetry, Swanand Kirkire’s haunting melody in Bawra Mann or Sudhir Mishra’s intense film Hazaron Khwahishen Aisi, Vineet Bahl’s chikankari was moving. Shunning a colonized attitude that all things Western are cool, Vineet stuck to what he is good at, Indian silhouettes to which he added his ingenious touch, by making them ultra feminine, taking the traditional threadwork to new heights in ivory, on georgette.

Aneeth’s textile treasures

Pero introduces saris for the first time, as Aneeth takes a trip around India to uncover the myriad jewels of weaves, she styles effortlessly into modern ensembles for a woman, who is unafraid of being herself.

Breaking Clichés About Shaadis

It is not that David Abraham and Rakesh Thakore haven’t done bridal wear before, they have, admits the former, but only for special clients and ‘on request’. So even as the duo gear up to show Shaadi Redux, their line immersed in stunning brocades, specially woven by Ekaya, which has been working with weavers for many, many years, David says, he does get nervous when he thinks about it. “I think, it is a fresh perspective to occasion wear, I wouldn’t say made to order for the bride, but for events leading up to the wedding. We don’t do bridal wear, so it is stressing me out a bit, it we are in uncharted waters,” he confides.

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