Climbing out-of-the-box

The FDCI India Men’s Weekend in Goa was a homage to the new-age experimental man, ready to take on relaxed clothing, without compromising on comfort, celebrating the love for monochromes and brightness, as well
as ingenious textures in denim.

By Asmita Aggarwal

What could be a better way to announce the arrival of a ‘sure’ man, who is aware of his choices, is willing to push the boundaries of what he likes to wear, embracing prints and embroideries like never before, than a showcase designed exclusively for them?

The forward-thinking chairman of the Fashion Design Council of India, Sunil Sethi resurrected this innate desire, with the inaugural show of the India Men’s Weekend, amongst the azure waters of Goa. A yacht to carry the 11 designers to showcase on the ‘infinity ramp” amid the quiet Arabian sea, with the historic Port and Jail Complex, Sinquerim, Goa serving as a picturesque background. The HSBC FDCI India Men’s Weekend, blended by Chivas Glassware, in Goa, blazed through on January 14, and the event was supported by Aguad Port and Jail Complex. The impressive line-up included Abhishek Gupta, Abraham and Thakore, Arjun Khanna, Ashish N Soni, J J Valaya, Manoviraj Khosla, Rajesh Pratap Singh, Rohit Bal, Rohit Gandhi + Rahul Khanna, Shantnu and Nikhil and Varun Bahl.

Bangalore-based Manoviraj Khosla confesses, this burgeoning sector has seen a sea change-25 years ago when he began, men would turn up in a tee, and jeans, while women made the effort on an evening out. Those who did want to go the extra mile, would prefer a bandhgala or jacket, with either a tan or black pair of formal shoes. “Fast forward to now and men want to look as good, or maybe even better than their partners—this change took its time to happen, but it came with a bang!” admits Khosla. There is no denying the fact that the average man would still like to wear blue and stripes to work, and certainly will not opt for a pink jacket, but yes, on his day off, he will reach for his printed shirt, with minimal embroidery. Khosla used recycled denim, mixed it with wool, and leather along with subtle embroidered motifs for his line. “I still wear the shirts I used to in college, sustainability is not restricted to just upcycling, but also how you consume fashion,” says Khosla. Offerings for men have taken a turn towards, baggy and oversized, but the charm of a well-fitted pair of trousers and superlative tailoring, will never go out of style. Men’s fashion is as big as women’s, and the market is more aware and ready for take-off, where there are innovations in fabric, silhouettes as well as, colour palette, says designer Varun Bahl.

Veteran in the womenswear segment Abraham and Thakore also showcased their newest line in Goa, and were delighted men finally got a place of prominence. The country has the finest menswear gurus, who have been exploring this space from Arjun Khanna to J J Valaya for decades, says Rakesh, explaining how his brand prefers to make capsule collections. “The biggest change I see is that the word ‘basic’ is not relevant in menswear anymore. How they put things together is changing, styling is a key component of dressing, and gender fluidity is now the norm. Easy and relaxed seems to be the buzzword,” he adds. Using Tencel and organic cotton, the duo crafted men’s jackets as well as bundis-co-ord sets, that you can wear in multiple ways—either together or by mixing and matching it with your existing wardrobe. This not only adds newness, but also offers the freedom of choice. Though the line also has what they do best—indigo-dyed and hand block printed jackets. The most eye-catching was the newspaper print, a conversation starter, away from the mundane paisleys and florals. “This print was a unique twist to the usual menswear offerings—houndstooth and stripes,” adds Rakesh.

Interestingly, bringing with him the flavours of Beneras was Abhishek Gupta, a city he grew up in and has been etched in both his design ethos and memory. Remembering the setting of the men’s weekend in Goa, with the magical sunset in the background, he believes it was an amalgamation of fabulous setting, timing and finest designers. “The stage is being set for many engaging things to come in the future,” he adds. Gupta’s new collection pays tribute to his two loves-Chanderi and Benerasi with Mughal flowers printed. This was juxtaposed with a dexterous pleating technique, cutwork as well as fabric manipulation, giving each piece a formidable texture. Appliques have been Gupta’s signature and he believes post-covid, the severity of design has vanished. “The sharp suits have reduced, paving the way for experimental clothing,” he adds. Men now know how to express themselves subtly, it seems almost natural, there is no gender diversification, freeing a lot of space to dress as they feel.

Whether it was Arjun Khanna’s “nose” prints inspired from US war planes, or Ashish N Soni’s renewed love for colour, think pink, each designer had an individualistic take on what men must wear. Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna came with their most adored metallic embroideries, and added Mexican fringes on their denim jackets. Men’s trousers and jacket lengths were reduced, and they were given the option of wide- legged pants. “The world post-covid is more accepting, whether it is a fuchsia suit, or sequins, men are using each process in their distinct way,” says Rahul.

Making your own rules is the new rule, so the denim jacket from their stable was deconstructed, and the collection celebrated light layering, with a lot of movement in each piece. The bow tie neck knots and Aviator shades, to go with each look channeled a beach holiday.