Dolly J presents Ombre in her unique way by infusing it with 90s shimmer
By Asmita Aggarwal
She learnt everything from her mother, who ran a quiet but successful label, making khakhas since she was ten-years-old, after school, perfecting each step with gentle nudging and on-the-job learning. No fashion school could have taught Dolly J what her moms factory did and thats why today after 30 years in the business she knows what will work in a fast changing market.
There is always an ignition point for a collection and for many it could range from travel, or a memory that remains with you, which you may not know how to translate into clothes, but you are sure it will work. Comfortable and fresh are two things that are predominately on my mind, some experiment, others follow trends, I feel Indian weddings are still traditional so one has to walk the tightrope as the bride wants ingenuity, says Dolly.
With the world reselling and repurposing, and it is the 90s collections steadily finding their way into thrift stores, is what Dolly observed on her trip to New York. So in some way the 90s became her starting point and shimmer and blues entered her design vocabulary. Pale pinks, old rose were the flavour of last season, but this time its fresh lavender, mauves and the highlight is ombre which I have never attempted before, she explains.
If you look closely there are at least eight colourways in each lehenga, and the brides would like a look that is away from what they usually get, embroidered or woven. Texturing is the key, last year I had woven fabrics, this year it is lurex, with stones and crystals, she explains.
The digital medium has democratised buying, and the bride wants a fleeting Western touch, an outfit she can even wear with her antique jadau jewellery. Ah-lam her ICW 2021 collection urges everyone to break free from limitations of the mind and dream big, not thinking about what people think about you, but focusing on chasing your dreams. This year she has converted organza roses into necklaces to go with crystal chokers, and Russian jewellery infused with coloured stones has inspired a large part of her line.
Dolly counts service her biggest USP as generations come to her, and put their faith in her offerings. If you have to survive in this industry you must know what you are doing, a definitive direction is a must only then will a client trust you with one of the biggest events in their life, she concludes.