Designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee pushes the boundaries and steps out of his comfort zone to explore power, sexuality and provocation with his latest couture collection.
This season the intellectual designer indulges his design philosophy with yarns of subversive clothing and a dark underlining subtext of gothic sensibility. “Personalised imperfection of the human hand” is perfection revealed in Sabyasachi couture. The designer will evoke the hunt of ancient and medieval times within the contemporary context of sexuality, bondage and vengeance
- Your upcoming collection ‘Bater’ is pegged to be one of your strongest couture lines. Tell us a little bit about it.
The words playing in my mind while designing “Bater” were: dark, dangerous, and predatory. It is glamorous, sexual and a powerful. The collection is grand, baroque and very strong. The historical references came from the royal hunts and were then channelised into textures that were shredded, burnt, and layered. All reminiscent of game birds and birds of prey. The show is almost primitive in its appeal. In terms of intricacy, dexterity and skill, this is perhaps the strongest couture collection from the brand.
I have been doing couture and bridal for a long, long time. When I was imagining the show for this time, the first word which came to my mind was risque. This time the clothes are out of the usual parameters of the brand – from embellishments to silhouettes, colour or just the body con quotient
- You have a strong commitment to reviving Indian craftsmanship and promoting traditional textiles. Which region are you partial to and how important are handloom fabrics for your line.
I truly believe in keeping the tradition of handicraft alive. For that we need to ensure we can create sustainable employment so that the next generation does not think it is not viable to stay with the craft. Handiwork and handicraft play a very significant role in this collection. Though the silhouettes and the looks are very modern and contemporary, the techniques are age old. Almost no fabric is seen – everything has been embroidered. From linings to under linings to shell fabric – every sq inch has been hand embroidered and an average time taken for the garments in this collection is about 365 man hours of labour per garment. We are happy that it will keep craft eco system in Bengal alive for a very long time.
- You are one of the few designer’s who have put Indian fashion on a global platform. What does it take to make a mark in the international scene.
Designers from any part of the world who are commercially or critically successful have cultivated their identity. Otherwise, one ends up borrowing cultures and sensibilities which do not belong to them. The global audience and press is quite sharp and astute, and can discern when something is disassociated from its DNA. Whether its filmmaking, architecture, music or food, incorporating a little bit of local flavour in ones roots is important for global growth.
That is why craft is going to be so important and fashion from India is always going to be craft based. We are an art and craft country, and the apple doesnt fall too far away from the tree. Its important for us to incorporate craft into whatever we do, otherwise we are just me too designers.
- Your creativity is not only restricted to fashion but you have also diversified into interior design, creating exclusive spaces. How symbiotic are the two processes.
I have always been fascinated by Indian surrealism. I think the heightened sense of imagination is my favourite element. Meaningful design is also about who you are and where you come from. For me hence it is totally symbiotic.
- Describe a Sabyasachi Bride
She has dignity, is cultured and has a respect for tradition.
- You have associated with Christian Louboutin for an exquisite collection of footwear for your couture show. Tell us a little about the association and how it came about.
Working with Christian Louboutin was working almost a wish fulfillment. We are very proud to collaborate with him – perhaps the most iconic shoe designer in the world. With the creative collaboration for this collection we have created a line of extremely Parisian footwear with an Indian baroque sensibility.
When I met him I realised what a lovely person he and the collaboration is the result of great creative chemistry. It is a beautiful amalgamation – between Christian Louboutin and Sabyasachi design team between Paris and India.
- FDCI and Sabyasachi go a long way back; season after season your show is one of the most awaited shows at India Couture Week.
It is always a privilege to showcase at India couture week in the capital, a stellar industry platform created by FDCI bringing forth the best of Indian design and always look forward to it year on year.
Read More on Sabyasachi on the Amazon.in blog here.