Few would know that the shy, diminutive girl who walked besides khadi-clad Sabyasachi after his show was sister and creative design head of his team, Payal. In fact, half of the line, the Kolkata-based maverick says, has been conceptualized, designed and executed by her. And Payal did steal the thunder from English Vinglish star Sridevi, the show-stopper for the evening, on the final day of the PCJ Delhi Couture Week.
Despite disappearing backstage soon after the show got over, abandoning the spotlight for Bollywood beauty, her director husband Boney Kapoor and daughter Jahanvi, Payal who seems to be following big brothers footsteps will not fade away into oblivion after a show that will be remembered for a long time to come.
New Moon, Sabyas romance with NY, Kolkata, Berlin, Paris and Barcelona brought to the fore his mastery over subtle embroidery, but the real India was seen in his hand block printing, Kashmiri detailing, elaborate and intricate Jamdanis, appliqué, Pashmina shawls, and a burst of flowers with Chintz prints. These were ingeniously teamed up with tulle wraps, saris, duppattas, Russian threadwork, French embroidery, to create magic on the catwalk.
I used tulle as it is soft and romantic. For me, raw yet powerful khadi holds a more prominent place in my heart and line, Indian textiles always bolster my line, he smiled, dressed in a white churidar-kurta and black khadi jacket.
It is hard to miss his understated touches in the form of gold buttons, glittering bijou collars, textured details and laborious hand printing.
The focus was more on making everything by hand, couture is all about customization and workmanship, and it had to be the finest, he explains.
Sequinned bodice, Anarkali drapes, flared godet beaded skirts that are a staple of Flamenco dancers, colourful semi-precious stones on lehengas, and zardosi bodice were dexterously constructed.
The revivalist constructed a grand 20-feet wide ramp, and an elegant set that bore resemblance to a lodge, with hunting trophies finding pride of place in the living room and a Frida Kahlo painting creating an old world charm— quite a change from his antique clocks set a few moons ago.
Always giving his women an intellectual edge, Sabya added small buns at the nape of the neck, reading glasses, zardosi headbands and embroidered clutches and wedges to add a restrained touch of glamour.
With his loyalists in the audience, Sabina Singh, Shabana Azmi and director Gauri Shinde to give him moral support, it was luxury redefined, Sabya style!