Aisha Rao

Aisha Rao – A sartorial spin on Catalan Modernisme & Art Nouveau

Aisha Rao’s Winter-Festive 2022 collection started with the quest to recreate the beauty of Trencadís, a type of folk art that uses broken tile mosaics put together piece by piece like a jigsaw. The effect is that of profound beauty.

The Hyderabad-based designer, thus, travelled back to Barcelona — the city that inspired her to pursue her passion in design at IED. The result? A line-up of striking, chromatically-inspired ensembles that capture the essence of Barcelona’s sculptural and architectural masterpieces like the whimsical creations by Antoni Gaudí and his Catalan contemporaries, striking Gothic cathedrals, and avant-garde works.

The showcase features Rao’s signature appliqué lehengas characterised by freedom of form, voluptuous colour and texture, and organic unity — much like Gaudí’s work. There are also sarees and dresses inspired by complex geometries and the Expressionist vision of the panoramas in Spain. The same is true for the exuberant prints in this collection as well.

Many of the garments are crafted with up-cycled fabrics, along with Georgette Dobby adorned with gold and silver filament, which gives brocade-like tactility. And, prints are given a new lease of life with intricately-executed badla work. Rich hues like Spanish red and lapis lazuli blue can be spotted among Rao’s vividly-coloured creations. The multiplicity of the tints is brought together beautifully with the help of botanical motifs, stunning landscapes, and sculptural forms rendered on the ensembles.

The showcase also brings a good dose of sparkle to the forefront. Many outfits are encrusted in sequins making them perfect for day-to-night dressing. One can wear them for a dressy day event and amp it up with jewellery for an after-dark look. Ultimately, this line-up is an earnest attempt to bring back nostalgia associated with Barcelona for Rao. But, more than anything else, it’s a celebration of the artistic gifts that crossover between disciplines.