In India sex, humour, and politics sells
Jay Jajal founder of Jaywalking will tell you he is returning to simplicity, is excited about his test fit garment, calls his drawings ugly and reveals his USP is that he is a fabulous marketeer! By Asmita Aggarwal Jay Jajal aspired to be a rapper, and he thanks his good fortune that he did not pursue it relentlessly, maybe it was the Guijju roots that told him, being lucrative and creative is a deadly combination, worth pursuing or maybe it is was just good old common sense—though the ball is up in the air on this one. I am happy I didnt become a musician; I can now support someone elses dream of becoming one as fashion gives me the freedom to do what I want, says Jay. Whatever the case may be, the Mumbai based, heavily tattooed Jay is an interviewer’s delight as his irreverence makes it both entertaining and amusing. His father came from a small town of Mahuva, Bhavnagar, and sent his son to Singapore to study business administration, as soon as he returned, from a chawl in Borivali he began his streetwear label Jaywalking. Not wanting any funds from his parents, Jay put in the money he got from gigs and started with patchwork denims and paint splattered jackets. Though his USP is his original prints, and artworks, reflective materials, he uses along with neoprene, and utility pockets that add functionality to his clothing. The biggest challenge is to have some fun with basics that we all need in our wardrobes, says Jay, who is part of the menswear edit for FDCI at the LFW 2024 in Mumbai, and he adds India is not yet ready for extremely experimental clothing. The meaning of building a career is lost in GenZ, they get bored easily and what Jay says he has learnt is that you can hire intelligence, but the CV must read rebellious, having guts and being unorthodox. And he does admit that in the pursuit of brand expansion, he somewhere lost the personal touch he once had with Jaywalking and the masterjee who taught him the intricacies of pattern cutting and moulding fabrics. The market seems to be less focused on offering works of art, but is looking at price points only which somewhere take away the spirit of clothing. Whenever the artist in you takes a backseat, making collections is like doing the Maths, he admits adding, I never claim to be the architect of modern Indian streetwear it always existed, I just came and redecorated it. Streetwear is more of a culture, a lifestyle, and he laughs and says, I used to draw and what I did draw was ugly. But I liked them so much that I decided to use them on my clothes. I never begin with a preconceived notion; I try to surprise myself with the result. But he did everything in his own language, and began with no expectations. Nature has been a huge support system and I often use it as a metaphor in my clothing with its transient colour contrasts it charms me to see how despite the disparity there is a beautiful blending, he says, adding that being a Gujarati, he understands business, like his dad who runs his successful, occasion wear retail from Borivali. His biggest achievement is, he designs what everyone can wear, it is not costume-y, it is aesthetically consumable as utility is extremely crucial, otherwise it is useless he confesses. This year, he has stepped away from his usual hoodies, trousers, and constricted garments. Also I dont understand what sustainable means, in fact no one understands this word, but for me its about running an ethical business, he says. Using cotton, he likes twill and ecru or what he calls kachcha (raw) denim, non-processed. The piece that most will love is his test fit, ensemble, with masterjee’s pen markings that he retained, looks interesting. We live in a world of Instagram and I have got a lot of love from that part of the world, but the industry must support new designers, he says. Buying a home for his parents, giving them a feeling, their son is settled makes Jay happy, I dont know pattern cutting but what I do know is how to sell, and how to make you spend your money, he smiles adding that in India, only sex, humour and politics sells. This year you can pick up his camouflage print that comes armed with embroidery and applique, then his hand drawn pin stripes are equally robust, that are deliberately uneven, with a human element to them, they are not straight but crooked. I am returning to simplicity and I feel I need to oil my mind, he laughs adding, I want to live and do, invest myself in things that daily make me joyous, and slow down the pace to avoid a burnout again, he concludes. Just like his father who runs a 33-year-old brand of wedding wear, but he is not on Instagram, which saves him from daily toil of how to serenade a fickle GenZ customer.
Unmasking AI
Almost 36 Pearl students showcase the benefits and pitfalls of AI in AI is contagious, at LFW X FDCI 2024 with an interesting display of ideas through pixelation, distortions and translucency. By Asmita Aggarwal London, Milan, New York, and Paris, and India Fashion Week, almost over, fashion houses are ready to retail, but fashion pundits predict in the next three to five years, AI is predicted to add $150 billion, and up to $275 billion to the apparel, fashion, and luxury sector in profit, globally, according to McKinsey analysis 2023. AI will assist in designing, and generative AI can process raw text, images, and videoit can also help in written scripts to 3-D designs, and craft realistic virtual models for video campaigns, adds the report. There is no doubt AI creates a smoother fashion ecosystem, whether it is the fit, trends forecasting and maybe that is what the 36 students from Pearl Academy, have named their LFW X FDCI line, AI is contagious or intelligent simplicity. The various looks tell us how AI can be a boon and bane, the key is using it effectively and the show is thus, divided into three sections. The World Economic Forum report states 75% of Generation Z shoppers prefer sustainability, and brands like Stella McCartney tied up with Google Cloud, to add machine learning and cloud-based data processing. Burberry has introduced an augmented reality (AR)-based shopping tool that allows customers to virtually experience Burberry products. Google Shopping aspires to reduce sizing issues by increasing inclusive models for virtual try-ons. Tommy Hilfigers Reimagine Retail project shows how AI can be used in fashion to spot trends and FIT students used AI-based tools to create a range of designs generated by AI. Trendalytics, a New York-based company, uses AI to get insights from social media and Google and help sellers to know the popularity of fashion trends so that they know what will increase sales. Pearl Academy showcase thus, is relevant and in the Maximal section shows its use can cause distortions, showcased through the human anatomy specifically the face, with the lips and eyes not their usual positions on the face somewhat exaggerated, to explain the disruption in our lives. And if you go in the exact opposite direction, with minimal usage, you can surely be out of the game. Balance their last segment is when you know how much is too much and the Fashion Styling and Image Design students of the fashion college, along with fashion design, played with translucency, muted hues, neutral skin tones, minimal make up with clean shapes, shift dresses, explains Nandita Shah, styling and image design professor at Pearl Academy, Mumbai campus. The shapes are body hugging but the focus is not on the frame, she adds. As the show progresses, some bizarre additions do come up, the accessories for example, the shoes turn transparent with balloons showcasing glitches in AI, ending on a bandaged look, when you have an over botoxed face. The pops of colour emerge and play peek-a-boo, the doll has been dismantled and her various body parts misplaced and added as accessories on the garments. Her legs are placed on the head to show how AI can sometimes distort images. Asymmetry helps drive home the point too—shapes show exaggeration on one side of the body. Balance displays suddenness and texture, the dress made with resin with different artifacts placed on it, is interesting and experimental. The institute known to have churned out some of the biggest names in Indian fashion from Rimzim Dadu to Shantanu and Nikhil among others believes that AI is inevitable and so is its use, it will in the future change the face of design and fashion. This showcase is the initiation of a dialogue and the faculty is equipping students to use AI intelligently. Shubhi Jindal, a third year student of Pearl Academy, from Fashion Styling and Image design , Mumbai campus, believes as a young student who is entering the fashion space, AI has made us lazy. She doesnt like the excessive use of digital printing and admits traditional formats add character and personality to clothing. We should return to femininity and delicateness, I feel that is what is missing in fashion today, it is getting too dark and edgy. Manya Narang, her classmate, adds that fashion college teaches us timelines and deadlines, and with the social media frenzy now one can change the entire narrative. AI is contagious but it can also add sustainability if you know how much and for whom to produce, she explains.
Measuring Up
S and N, the brothers Shantnu and Nikhil have replaced the mini “It” bag and given it to men, in dhotis and sexiness with abundant leg show for women along with dollops of shimmer. While quite the opposite was post-Soviet modest label Measure, which revealed the former Communist country is now embracing sheer, wraps and cowl skirts. By Asmita Aggarwal Tahira Kashyap is a cancer survivor and she is the much better half of the actor Ayushman Khurana, who often croons and gets away by winning a million hearts. This time his wife was in the spotlight to pay homage to Shantnu and Nikhils parents Nikki and Rishi whom they lost recently. The boys growing up were always closer to their mom, at home there was a traditional role reversal, Nikki was the provider, Rishi the caregiver, a truly Modern Family. The LFW XFDCI 2024 line declared, the new dress code for men is dhotis, draped and worn with structured sharp jackets in charcoals. And women too got a bit sexier this time, for the brothers, who got them into corsets, bustiers and shimmer for spring. The lehengas sobered down and converted into skirts that you can wear with cropped jackets, later both can be worn with your denims or a cool white blouse, so S and N understood women like separates, in their case, a bit of extra glam added. Cinched waist, laser cut belts, animal prints, body huggers, the mood was a red-carpet event where you need shine, but you got to make black work. Among the two, Shantnu lets Nikhil do the talking and prefers to take the backseat, maybe thats the reason why this equation works so well and has been for the last 20 years, the older brother allows the younger one to take the spotlight. S and N Men this year, are choosing to wear ankle length pants, while they decided to give women Matrix-style coats, velvet draped saris, silver short dresses with sheer play, but the cool quotient was the It bags or minis were carried by men for a change. You can wear S and N skirts everywhere, to a party, cocktail, mehndi and even a night out with friends, they made it versatile. On another note, the label from Russia, Dagestan, along the stunning Caspian Sea, came designer Zainab Saidulaevas cutting-edge collection TOI brought to India by the FDCI, Measure was an ode to post-Communalism Russia. This season of spring has seen a love of ivory and ebony, as style gurus have discovered its prowess, it is subtle yet impactful, so Measure the label from post-Soviet Russia, introduced us to faux fur asymmetrical draped cover ups, frayed and tasselled skirts worn under long coats, in pristine whites. As Russian designers are making waves internationally whether it is Demna Gvasalia who has revolutionised Balenciaga or his brother Guram, with the label Vetements, Russia has now become a potential market for global fashion business. Designer, photographer, and poster boy Gosha Rubchinskiy was also noticed by Comme Des Garcons as the Cold War never allowed the style world to grow in the former Soviet Union. There is a hunger in Russia which now has been divided into 15 states of the Russian Federation, stretching from the Baltic and Black seas to the Pacific Ocean, as they are now exposed to a new world, Measure is a case in point, the shapes that included tie ups, nattily cut jackets, flowers blooming under sheer layers, ruching and dropped waists, Zainab added fabric manipulation, pillow-esque wraps on shoulders. The only exception of an otherwise grey sky palette, was a bright sea green cowl hem dress. Layering was her mainstay, as well as, the kimono style dresses that caressed the runway, she also used exaggeration in her favour. With cuffs and tie ups bigger and better, she gave women volume, but with restraint as well as quilted jackets.
Ready for a swim?
Saaksha Bhat and Kinnari Kamat launch a swimwear edition, complete with their signature micro pleating, and elevate it with quilting and ikat. But the Gujarati genes hold strong with their unadulterated love for mirror work! By Asmita Aggarwal Saaksha Bhat and her sister-in-law Kinnari Kamat, understand embroideries like no one else, after all they have been creating swatches for some of the best fashion houses from Elie Saab to Balmain to Gucci. And if you go by Bollywood popularity, Karisma Kapoor, Kalki Koechlin and Aditi Rao Hydari have loved their ode to craft. Kinnari Kamat, you could describe as craft lover, and Saaksha Parekh, a lawyer by profession, born and brought up in a family of actors and filmmakers knew the uphill task they would be submitted to in fashion, but that didnt deter their trajectory, only emboldened it! They dressed the Without Me hitmaker, Halsey in an infinity blouse and two-toned skirt, as well as Sharon Stone for the Drew Barrymore show; Saaksha exclaims, I think Indias beautiful prints, colours and most importantly hand craft which has intrigued the West. We have such a rich tapestry of artisans, and their work is so uniquely intricate which has put India firmly on the fashion map, she says and admits India-inspired prints, and micro-pleating have been the brands mainstay over the years. Kamats family is in the textile business, she studied fashion design from NIFT (National Institute of Fashion Technology) while Bhat, studied law at the University of Manchester (UK) and had a buzzing practice but they both confess their love for everything Indian—Ikats and lehriya prints layered with mirror work, tassels, thread work and appliqué, which they execute almost effortlessly. Bhat, who grew up in a South Indian family in Manchester and Kamat a Gujarati is from Liliya (in Amreli, Gujarat) thus the love for Bandhani, lehriya and aari work is evident. This season for LFW X FDCI 2024, they are introducing swimwear which is extremely exciting for us. We have done quilting techniques on top of the swimsuits to add richness and drama. We have added a lot of sheer chiffons and silks as layers to the resort wear making it fun and young. A key technique of the brand —– hand micro pleating takes centerstage with many garments utilizing this hand craft, says Kamat. Layered dresses, sheer skirts, and oversized blazers is the key to their look for 2024, the idea was to play around with masculinity and combine it with femininity. The play and balance with both you see an inspired form of the ikat in many garments that are unexpected – on swimwear and on skirts. We have used mirror work again in modern ways – lining the sleeves of capes, scattered on miniskirts and filling bomber jackets, says Kinni. For them doing womenswear and menswear is not very different, they are not as opposites as they once were. The modern man and modern woman have many similar qualities – they want to dress as chic-ly as possible without compromising on comfort. Oversized jackets have spilled into womenswear from menswear, and there is so much overlap when it comes to printed co ord sets, embroidered shirts and the use of silks and chiffons, says Saaksha. The outdoors was a big concept in their collection and introducing swimwear into the resort collection and emphasizing the need of getting outside in luxurious comfortable ensembles was their lighthouse. I would say prints are our forte. Its a difficult area to constantly innovate, as prints can be very polarising. They are usually loved or hated and seldom are people on the fence about them. Its important to keep finding sources of inspiration and what better country than India to deep dive into archives and history books, says Kinni. The women they design for have become bolder, more experimental in their choices and will not compromise on quality or comfort. Emotionally they are stronger than ever, resilient and know exactly what they want. They appreciate hand craft, locally sourced fabrics and ensembles that can be mixed and matched within their own wardrobes. It was important for us to make sure we design and sell separates that can be reworked, says Kinni. Staying relevant is an ongoing learning experience. It is important to keep one eye on the ball (your own creativity) but also a pulse on the ever-changing needs and wants of the modern woman. To survive you must be open to change, be humble and want to learn on an everyday basis. We still have not explored AI in the workplace. But of course, it will play a prominent part in years to come. AI will be able to design, conceptualize and execute. The digitalization of fashion is a reality not a question mark, concludes Saaksha.
Monochrome Contrasts
Ritika Mirchandani offers tone-on-tone, summer pastels with placement bling for occasion wear this season. By Asmita Aggarwal My mother has been the most inspiring figure in my life. As a designer herself, she introduced me to the world of fashion from a very young age. Growing up surrounded by her creativity and passion for design, deeply influenced my own interest in fashion. Her guidance, and support have been invaluable to me, shaping me into the designer I am today. She continues to motivate me with her talent, dedication, and love for fashion, says Ritika Mirchandani who is showcasing her line at LFW X FDCI 2024, Mumbai. Known for her eponymous label by her name, has been dressing women in her ubiquitous shimmering shararas and interned with Ralph Lauren after studying at the Fashion Institute of Design and Merchandising, Los Angeles, believes her journey in the fashion industry has been both challenging and rewarding. I’ve had the opportunity to express my creativity through designs that reflect my unique perspective and style. My achievements include creating collections that resonate with women who are looking for stylish and comfortable clothing, says Ritika. The landscape of womenswear has evolved significantly since she entered the industry. One notable transformation is its expansive growth, largely driven by enhanced accessibility. Thanks to the proliferation of online shopping and e-commerce, women now enjoy a broader array of fashion choices. Additionally, there has been a notable change in consumer expectations, particularly regarding quality. Modern women prioritize factors like fabric, construction, and durability, fuelling a demand for high-quality, enduring garments. The emergence of social media has profoundly impacted the womenswear market. Platforms such as Instagram have revolutionized how fashion is consumed and promoted, offering designers and brands new avenues to showcase their creations and connect with a global audience. This heightened visibility has democratized fashion, making it more inclusive and accessible. These shifts have influenced how women engage with fashion, fostering a greater willingness to experiment with diverse styles, trends, and brands. This has resulted in a more vibrant and diverse market, she believes. For this season, she anticipates several trends to be prominent. Monochrome looks are likely to continue being popular, as they offer a sleek and sophisticated aesthetic that is easy to style. The shift towards tone-on-tone and monochrome bridal wear reflects a desire for understated elegance and timeless appeal in wedding attire. Summer pastels are also expected to be a key trend, as these soft, muted hues evoke a sense of freshness and lightness that is perfect for the warmer months. Pastels are versatile and can be easily incorporated into various styles, making them a popular choice for both casual and formal looks, she explains. Overall, these trends reflect a preference for simplicity, elegance, and versatility in fashion, which aligns with the current emphasis on comfort and practicality in clothing choices. Ritika offers mix-and-match so she designs pieces that can be easily mixed and matched with other items in the collection or with existing pieces in a wardrobe. This allows for endless outfit combinations and extends the wearability of each garment. My designs feature contemporary silhouettes that are on-trend yet timeless. These silhouettes can be styled in various ways to suit different occasions, adding to their versatility, she adds. The collection for 2024, can be worn as separates, such as pairing a blazer with trousers or a skirt. As a designer, she believes that incorporating bling into Indian occasion wear dressing should be done thoughtfully to avoid overwhelming the outfit. While a touch of glamour can elevate the look, too much bling can make it appear excessive. Instead, I recommend using bling strategically as accents to highlight specific areas or features of the outfit, such as the neckline, cuffs, or hemline. This approach adds a tasteful sparkle that enhances the overall aesthetic without overshadowing the outfit’s elegance. Remember, moderation is key when it comes to bling in Indian occasion wear dressing to maintain a sophisticated and refined appearance, she confides. Though the lessons she learnt from Ralph Lauren and Cynthia Rowley, like the former taught her, the importance of attention to detail as he is a maverick from the design of his garments to the presentation of his stores. Brand consistency is what takes you far. Both Ralph Lauren and Cynthia Rowley have maintained a consistent brand image and aesthetic throughout his career. This includes everything from his classic Americana style to his iconic Polo logo, she adds. While Ralph Lauren is known for his classic style, he has also shown a willingness to innovate and adapt to changing trends. Overall, the key lesson from Ralph Lauren is to create a brand that is not only stylish and aspirational but also timeless, consistent, and customer-focused. My USP lies in our commitment to sustainable and ethical fashion. We prioritize versatile materials and production methods, ensuring that our garments are not only stylish but also environmentally conscious. In terms of embroidery and embellishment trends for this year, we are seeing a rise in intricate embroidery appliqué. This technique involves attaching pre-made embroidered patches or motifs onto garments, adding a unique and detailed touch. It’s a great way to add texture and visual interest to garments, and we’re incorporating this trend into our designs, she adds. Additionally, she is experimenting with new shapes and silhouettes this year, moving away from traditional cuts and exploring more asymmetrical and exaggerated shapes. This adds a modern and avant-garde twist to our designs, allowing us to offer something fresh and exciting to our customers, she admits. As a designer, she advises women who shop seasonally to focus on investing in versatile pieces that can easily transition between seasons. Look for timeless silhouettes and high-quality fabrics that will last beyond the current season. These pieces can be layered or accessorized to suit different weather conditions, allowing you to get more wear out of them. Instead of following every seasonal trend, consider incorporating them through accessories or statement pieces. This way, you can stay current
Princess of style
Niloufer Khanum of Hyderabad was the OG of fashion influencers with her Westernising the sari, adding exquisite pearls and it is this regality that Anushree Reddy recreates in organzas this season for the bride who chooses subtle shine over overt bling. By Asmita Aggarwal It has been a ten-year long journey she considers herself lucky that she does occasion wear, which offers both consistency and continuity and according to a CRISIL Research, the Indian wedding and celebration wear apparel market was estimated to be approximately Rs 1100 billion. There is no adapting to drastic changes as this sector is robust and it has the unique ability to service itself all year round with the myriad players in the fray. Being in the business you must be aware of all its time taking aspects—marketing, styling, shoots, everything matters to remain relevant to an audience with shifting tastes. As her forte remains floral prints, Anushree Reddy, felt this USP was soon replicated by competition rather swiftly as the designer landscape has similar products, but today her distinct ethos differentiates her from a sea of also-rans. Her price points and product quality are synonymous, plus having different ventures gets you diverse wedding shoppers. The zardozi, cut dana, threadwork, pearls, always serenades someone looking for somethingwhether it is the mother of the bride, the bride, the extended family or cousins. The awareness that a bride brings today on the table is unprecedented. She may be simpler with fewer elements and bling, but she knows exactly what she wants, admits Anushree, adding you cant get away with what you showed last season. This year is a year of pastels and soft pinks, plus no one is asking for the once staple red with its diminishing popularity, but what she does do is make each piece versatile and personalised. If the lehengas is heavy the second skirt will be much lighter so that she can dance the night away, no one wants to feel restricted. Inspired by Princess Niloufer of Hyderabad, who Anushree terms as the OG of fashion influencers she narrates the incredible tale of the Turkish princess, married to a Hyderabadi prince. The dazzling beauty of Princess Begum Niloufer Khanum Sultana Farhat (1916 1989) was one of the last princesses of the Ottoman Empire and was married to Prince Moazzam Jaah, the second son of the Nizam of Hyderabad, so it was natural that Anushree dipped into the citys history she was born in. Many museum runs later and armed with catalogues and photographs she embarked on paying a tribute to this long lost beauty. Known for her sarees and jewellery, the princess was photographer Antony Beauchamps muse, and was credited for adding Parisian grace to the Indian sarees which were made by Madhav Das in Mumbai. She loved chiffons and crepes, and wore them often with a broad woven Banaras brocade border. Niloufer was the woman behind the term Indo-Western as her silk saris came with lace frills, and an abundance of sequins made by even Lanvin in Paris. Custom pieces came from Indian weavers, and till today her wardrobe is still studied by fashion students. Her collection of sarees are now treasured at the New York Institute of Fashion Technology, explains Anushree, alumnus of the London School of Economics. The 2024 line by Anushree pays tribute to the grand embroidery that the Princess loved, in silk, net and tissue, with pastels and exquisite embellishments. Her sari sometimes was designed in France and then when it came to Hyderabad, she had it embroidered by Indian artisans, adds Anushree who studied vintage photographs almost 100 years old and recreated the magic of her pearls embellished organzas with vintage flowers blooming on diaphanous saris. Interestingly, thats not all that Anushree is busy doing, she recently launched get wedding décor company that takes forward in inspiration and style what her occasion wear entails. So, the panthers and bright florals are replicated in her décor company that she believes is an exciting vertical to her already successful business. The visual language is the same, and it really gives me joy to be a part of the celebration. Not just designing but also taking a leap of faith by deciding the theme and concept of each function, she concludes.
AK is Ok
The twins Vishesh and Viraj, one an artist, and the other born with a business acumen, embarked on a journey to give their mom Anamika Khanna a respite when they started AK-OK, but now it has a legion of followers owing to its unpredictable prints, placements raw embroideries, tattered denims and bustiers worn with her sheer ubiquitous dhotis. By Asmita Aggarwal What is it that serenades an audience as much as the magic of monochromes, of course in Anamika Khannas case, a bit of distressed denim added to the heady concoction? Maybe it’s timeless appeal, or that you just can never go wrong with this combination! AK-Ok was started when Anamika was extremely unwell and her twins would often ask her if she was ok, thus the moniker, which grew into an almost pret line, hoping to appeal to GenZ. But this year for LFW X FDCI 2024, it seemed as if Anamika was dressing women like her, confident, who were not interested in impressing anyone, they prioritised comfort and above all wore separates they could wear something already existing in their burgeoning wardrobe. Her new found love for Kaftans with pockets, oversized pant-suits in white with placement prints and artworks, shirt dresses cinched at the waist with gold chain belts, fabric manipulated to create textures on high waisted skirts as well as extreme tessellation showed us that Anamika is moving to an era where day to night dressing is mandatory. Candy wrapper gold with shiny coats, her love for tatters and holes, as well as risqué necklines, without being too overt was her way to add a little sexiness to the mundane. You can never have a show without the various avatars of the dhoti, transparent to translucent, draped to pleated, worn with denim busters to long coin embroidery jackets, AK-Ok has various options to choose from. The balloons pants, denim cut up and broken, with embroideries with threads hanging, zari unfinished, the incompleteness kind of completed the look, as if announcing, in this I find that I can relate to the state of minds of the current generationa lack of wholeness, a constant searching. Shanaya Kapoor the star daughter decided to tell us that in the sweltering summer heat, which can descend on us anytime now, a white shirt is enough to take you through the day, of course with the addition of chunky bangles, an air-conditioned neckline and layered bracelets!
Alpha Women
Inca or incarnation by Amit Hansraj is for women who are mature, confident and know that clothes are extension of them not the other way round and it is this individuality that he hopes to celebrate each season. By Asmita Aggarwal Amit Hansraj has been in the fashion world for the last 20 years, but coming from a small town, Hamirpur, unlike the glamorous Dharamsala, in Himachal it was not an easy task to break into the fashion industry, which is till today a playing ground of the affluent. His sojourn to Delhi and first stop was Ghaziabad, where he had little or no exposure to fashion, and worked odd jobs like backstage helper, till he got a break to work with Malini Ramani, then Ritu Beri which took him to Paris and of course Bina Ramani. I owe my fashion education to these three, I learnt by observation, says Amit the founder of the label Inca, which showcased at the FDCI x LFW 2024. Soon, he began styling, and luckily got to study various aspects of fashion, and also co-founded a label with Amit Aggarwal, then moved on to work with Zubair Kirmani. Tina Tahiliani is a visionary, and I worked at Ensemble as a curator, brought in contemporary fashion from 2017-2020. The burnout forced me to take a break and came back to Delhi from Mumbai. The pandemic happened and it turned everything on its head, he reveals. It was almost a sabbatical from the crazy universe of clothes, and this gave him time to ponder over what he can call his own, and the isolation made him think. He saw the terrazzo flooring with those chips, unlike the heavy-duty rich homes marble, being alone he was often staring at the floor of his rented home in Hauz Khas. Then he decided to create a line of curtains, with similar patterns, which later took shape of a capsule collection with a help of an off duty graphic designer and skilled masterjee. Inca is the short form of incarnation, he explains, the concept of God is timeless and as he is quite interested in Hindu philosophy, he thought this would be ideal. His ideology is oversized clothing but not frumpy but cool, think Smita Patil and Parveen Babi he laughs, both are his favourites. His clothes are a collection of experiences, maybe in some ways an ode to the invisible people we see around us, as he says, my label was made with multiple broken moments. Fashion must be enjoyed is his mantra, the inner working of the garments is effortlessness, and you feel good and sexy without revealing too much, sexy is a feeling, he believes. Everyday things and incidents inspire him and fashion should be not be restricted to palaces, Kashida, kings and queens, but if you look at the Taj mahal no one is talking about the thousands of workers who built this monument of love! History is not written by the common man we all know that, he smiles. Remembering his childhood he says, his dad was extremely progressive and well-travelled by he did not come from money, so his label is a celebration of what he saw, those who were marginalized, had no voice, he hopes to tell those stories. I launched the sari, but it is functional, it can be worn, while you are doing all kinds of jobs—that includes dusting your book shelf, he says, adding his choice of show stopper was keeping this philosophy in mind too. Dia Mirza is an actress and an activist she has lived her life on her own terms, as she ages, she has not chosen to continue in a race, and taken on any and every Hindi movie that comes her way. I find older women attractive, because experiences of life make you confident, there is a glow of knowledge, and that confidence adds charm to your personality. Dia choses to live life by what she believes I find that endearing, he admits. Hansraj cuts his clothes circular, the fabric manipulation gives it the freedom to take the shape of the wearer, and his evolved clientele, if they dont see an armhole is not terrified by it, in fact they embrace this new shape. I love monochromes, and silks, satins and pure fabrics in mustards and purples, he concludes, as he opened his store in the Kila last year filled with his vintage artifacts/photographs that he has collected over the years. I dont understand the whole influencer space I cant resonate with them. But I feel I want to make a label that makes the wearer feel happy, and only then will she think of me again, he signs off.
Think Chill
Remember The Jetsons, and the 90s trend Vaporwave? Kanika Goyal brings that shiny high gloss vibe to the line she has designed for the American brand Skechers. By Asmita Aggarwal After four years at NIFT Delhi and then Parsons New York, where she studied for two years, Kanika Goyal was ready in 2015 to launch her label. And she says with a giggle, I am a very happy person, so clothes are a good medium to share my joy with others. Kanika runs two label, KGL (Kanika Goyal Label) a bit exclusive and Kilogram aimed at the mass market, now she has embarked on a new aesthetic, to be the only designer to be hired by Skechers, the California-based comfy sneaker company to design a line of apparel for India. The show is theirs, she corrects me, adding, and the creative direction is mine. Almost 16 articles and 31 looks were launched at the LFW X FDCI 2024 showcasing in Mumbai, for spring summer, taking you back to the era of the nubile Britney Spears crooning Kiss me baby one more time, of the 90s when the pop star was a sensation and could be seen on every billboard. It was the pre-internet era, I would say it was rather bold, for Sketchers it is more of a fun take on the 90s fashion, a Y2K appeal. Thus, you see the pop art, checkerboard patterns, logo mania and lots of colour blocking, says Goyal, as she reveals she started with athleisure when she first launched her label almost nine years ago. She has paid a tribute to Vaporwave aesthetic outfits, which are futuristic, think chrome, shiny robots, flying cars, and metallic shoes, as if you are The Jetsons (George, his homemaker wife Jane, and their children, Judy, and Elroy, have a robotic maid, Rosie and a talking dog, Astro). These sometimes random trends which are said to be back in 2024, are an offshoot of the electronic music scene, visually it is all over the place— it has elements of techno, retro and futuristic. Think VHS tapes, gaming graphics, pixelation, school logos and The Simpsons. I call it nostalgia with an effective colour blast, says Kanika who has added glitches, cyberpunk themes, geometric lines and peppered it with eye-catching neons. The key to what she has done for Sketchers is mixed comfort with style, as generally the shoe is considered a boon for a certain older generation, but Kanikas intervention is making it cool for GenZ. The apparel is relaxed, oversized, and she added parkas, bralets, dresses, cropped jackets, trench coats, T-shirts with a more youth centric approach, with separates so you mix and match. Fashion is cyclical and even though I love architecture, and the 70s, I feel this collection has really brought me back to the 90s which are making their presence felt everywhere—movies, to fashion, she confides adding that these sporty ensembles can take you from day to night. Tangerines, emeralds, aquas were merged with metallics in high gloss, to give the entire collection a high sheen look, a kind of over-the-top appeal. You can wear it on vacations, even though it is performance wear, it has a distinct lifestyle element to it, she confesses adding that her approach to this has been individualistic, in some ways an extension to what her brand stands forcool graphics and a chill vibe.
An evening Soiree
Paras and Shalini of Geisha Designs offer sundowner clothing complete with cording, macrame, as nostalgia remains their anthem for this season, creating the various elements of nature, through fabric manipulations. By Asmita Aggarwal Olsen twins label The Row banned phones in their showcase recently at the Paris Fashion Week 2024 show and went back in time, to an era in the 80s and 90s when photographs were released a week later. Maybe in India no one will have the courage to take this decision, but when Paras Bairoliya is quizzed on this brave move, he admits, Social media is about brand communication and it is essential, I agree that the lens of the smartphone camera cannot capture the sights and sounds your eyes can. But it can take your collection to millions of people through technology. Content creators every hour keep the buzz on, their feed is fresh and interesting. Paras and Shalini even though they have been in the fashion game of chess for the last 25 years where survival is an art, believe their biggest achievement is they have remained relevant for a younger audience too. Nostalgia is their anthem and luckily, they are excited each year to experiment with new techniques and materials. Indian craftsmanship and global flavour have been our mantra. Plus, the concept has always been soft and romantic, we are not into conversational clothing. We service diverse markets, and carry forward the same ethos in our décor business, packaging, clothes, and luxury, says Paras. The scope of dressing has now expanded, there are destination weddings, thematic events, sundowners, and Geisha Designs understands the power of customization. This year at LFW X FDCI 2024, it is dressing for a sundowner, maybe not trousseau for the bride, but certainly occasion wear for the extended family complete with cocktail dresses! The biggest trend of 2024 is people have time to think about what they want, and thus there is a rise in demand for tone-on-tone, play of texturization in their line The Elemental Symphony. Each element whether it is air to water has a play for dynamism with structure and fluidity, as each one has its own individuality. Their new ways of beading make the garment look lighter than it appears, as well as fabric molding which embodies a certain sheerness, a glossy surface, looks as if molded on body forms. This concept allowed the duo freedom of expression. From pleats to tucks, making it appear as if there are ripples of water on the fabric, was an interesting expedition. In the changing landscape of fashion there are many clients who come to Geisha Designs and ask them to convert their old brocade saris into something new, so a trench coat with quilting was executed making it red carpet ready. These experiments with cut and fabric make our journey exciting, and keeps us on our toes, says Paras Bairoliya. Tulles, satins, and organza have been used for drapes-like saris, worn with jackets, chiffons have come with metallic textures, and sheer with gloss. The chiffons are layered and come with laser and 3-D printing, along with various techniques and macramé added to give it a couture feel as well as cording. Moms are a more generous and loyal audience, Paras laughs, they are also a lot fitter and wants to make shopping an experience, plus, the confidence she comes in with is exemplary. She is seldom influenced by her friends and buys exactly what she feels will work. But the 20-year-old is another story, he smiles. She will jump on the next trendy label, and is a tricky customer, as her want for new is endless.