A discerning eye for detail and artistic sensibility paves the way for global-Indian couture
Back in the day, a young designer risked all and broke away from traditional silhouettes to blend global styling cues with contemporary style. Today he is known as the champion of Indian couture; meet Varun Bahl- couturier, artist and visionary
- Along with your couture collection, you launch Aurum — a bespoke wedding venture, tell us about it.
This is something I’ve always wanted to do, It’s been a long time coming and designing wedding destinations is just another outlet for my creativity. I thought why not now, why wait, the timing was just perfect. My couture show is just before the wedding season, so it made sense to launch this venture, which I have been hoping to do so for many years, now. The offsite show will showcase both fashion and wedding decor. I have a very different approach to designing wedding spaces, I believe less is more, and this sensibility is very rare to find especially in this space. I hate over crowded rooms that have everything under the sun stuffed into one big hall. I feel negative space is very important so that highlights and key details shine through. Aurum will be about beautiful wedding destinations that focus on quality, design and personalisation. I love nature and work that into most of my themes.
- The set is larger than life, walk us through it.
Every wedding is unique and I want it to be special. This particular set resembles a courtyard in a house. One enters the venue through tall French doors, for the high ceilings we have imported Czechoslovakian chandeliers, unique digitally printed motifs on quality fabrics are used for drapes, and there will be dozens of fresh flower arrangements both standing and hanging to evoke femininity and style. Tables for twelve are set in hexagon arrangements on either side of the runway.
- You have stayed true to your design philosophy and not succumbed to commercialisation. Isn’t there tremendous pressure to expand?
Each to their own, there is no one formula fits all in this industry. I make clothes that I believe in and that will stand the test of time. I don’t want to go into overdrive mode, I like to retain a puritan approach and stay true to my design ethos. However that doesn’t mean I’m not a commercial designer.
- Your signature style is all about blending the classic with the contemporary, do you find it hard to keep reinventing silhouettes within the same paradigm?
No, not at all, each season comes with a new inspiration and there is always something fresh on the runway. My collections are feminine and classic, yet non conformist. There is a bold sexiness and risqué factor to them, all the while keeping traditional styles in mind.
- Give us a preview of what to expect of your couture collection this season
I have used a lot of colour and shaded fabrics, some garments have almost a hundred colours, but nothing that jars the eye. Lehengas, saris and gowns in tone-on-tone, ombre and multi hued shades are quite different from what I usually create.
- You have resisted jumping on the Bollywood bandwagon for publicity. Why?
Well i think it’s a mutually beneficial association. A lot of celebrities are now really interested in fashion and want to wear different labels and try new looks. It works for both the designer and the celebrity. Bollywood is a big influencer, and as long as there is Bollywood there will be a strong connect with fashion, because inherently film needs fashion and vice versa. I don’t believe in actively seeking out celebrities to wear my garments for publicity, but If someone wears my ensemble I have no qualms with it. Many celebrities have worn my outfits and have looked beautiful in them.