The incredible Sufi singer Zila Khan was the perfect choice for Ashima-Leena Singhs show at the PCJ Couture Week, which paid a tribute to Indian craftsmanship and its overflowing treasure trove. Her booming voice resonated in the Taj Mahal hotel on a seemingly wet Thursday evening, but the rain gods were merciful and reigned in their power, just for a day.
There were many surprises in store for those who believe designer wear is just about reds, as pristine whites took the runway by storm. And for young girls who dont want the hassle of draping a sari, Ashima Singh simplified their lives with the pre-stitched sari giving them the ease of slipping into a white number with a net-ty edge. I dont think white is a taboo anymore, in fact a lot of girls ask for it. We combined many aspects of antique zari saris with new-age techniques, explains Ashima.
Maybe thats why we got to see laser cut gotta patti used ingeniously as trimmings on flowing pallus or placed innovatively at the bottom of lehengas, with French silk net (which has the softness of Dhaka muslin), silver lame, georgette and brocade appliqué on voluminous lehengas and light-weight saris.
Airy, easy and elegant best describe Raag Rattan, a line that the duo believe is their best after 20 years of being in the fashion business.
As Zila Khans mellifluous voice filled the hall, on the notes of foot-tapping numbers kesariya balam, chap, tilak sab cheene and lal mere, a song immortalized by the lovely Runa Laila, models strutted their stuff in embellished capes, full-bodied angarakhas, and one got to see an interesting play of symmetry with either the body plain or tops ornate, a deliberate choice by the designers to maintain a fine balance in an ensemble.
Interestingly, the end was as beautiful as the beginning with the classic beauty Sharmila Tagore wowing guests (on the tune of AR Rahmans khawja mere khawja) in a watermelon-coloured sari with a heavily embroidered, tasseled net tunic. She symbolizes grace, elegance and everlasting beauty, says Ashima. How many of us can age so beautifully, I wonder?