Anju Modi is one of India’s most respected designers and a pioneer of Indian couture. Her forte is blending contemporary design with traditional textiles.
Anju Modi’s illustrious journey, spanning 20 years bestows on her the reputation of being one of the most admired names in the Indian fashion industry. Each season she explores a different textile and silhouette to create a classic collection. This year at AICW, she has a special preview for her couture collection titled Kashish
1) Tell us about your commitment to revive Indian handloom and textiles.
I feel that our country has a rich repertoire of design and textile heritage, so it is only natural for me to look inwards and learn from this wealth of knowledge. Every region has such unvisited and unexplored inspirations; from its distinctive history to its unique cultural influence, there is a traditional handloom and an ensemble for every place. I suppose my love and commitment to reviving and recreating the heritage of textiles comes from my extensive travel across the country. I studied and understood each of these textiles from development to their production stage, ever since I started my label. It is not just about reviving handlooms, but also about translating this vast library of textile knowledge and paying homage to the work handed down generation to generation by master craftsman who keep the tradition alive.
2) You create avant garde designs but with a quintessentially Indian silhouette. How important is the wearability of a garment as opposed to creating statement pieces for a show?
For me the design process is largely about a strong concept that translates itself through my collections. I create ensembles that one can have in their wardrobe. The perspective of reviving ancient handlooms is lost if the heritage doesn’t carry forth through the clothes we wear. So wearability is a very important part of my design. A statement piece need not be something unwearable, it is intended to reflect craftsmanship and a certain design aesthetic. Having said that, I admire garments that are almost like museum pieces, and I would love to create some ensembles that reach such a stature as well!
3) Costume and couture come together in an Anju Modi creation. How different are the experiences when designing for the runway and for film?
Not too different, except possibly the time that goes into design from concept to production, and of course the quantities. For costumes in a movie, sometimes we have to create multiple pieces of the same garment to withstand the onslaught of repetitive scenes.
4) You are currently designing for Sanjay Leela Bhansali’s Bajirao Mastani. Tell us about the look and if it is a period film?
Yes, the movie focuses on the time when Bajirao was at the height of his career as the Peshwa of the Maratha regime. It focuses on him falling in love with Mastani. The costumes have been made after much research and repeated travel by Mr. Bhansali and myself all through Maharastra. The thought was to recreate a time in history through costume and jewellery.
5) Kashish, your couture line harks back to magical folklore. Give us an insight on the collection.
The collection Kashish focuses on the culturally rich and intellectually bountiful Persia. It reflects beautiful and time withstanding motifs, calligraphy art, miniature paintings, architectural influences and of course philosophical poetry by Rumi. All the jewels of the Persian empire have inspired Kashish.
6) Describe an Anju Modi bride
She’s a woman who is rooted in heritage but doesn’t accept customs that bind her. She’s adventurous, has a strong sense of who she is, and her individuality shines through in her life choices (which are often alternative and not run of the mill).
7) Celebrating 25 years of the eponymous Anju Modi line, has life come a full circle for you?
I think there are still quite a few new ventures I am working on, and there’s much more that I seek to do and achieve!
