Suneet Varma’s couture straddles two diverse worlds—- the conventional where you want floral embroideries soaked in colour and the modern where you wear your long skirt with an off shoulder blouse

By Asmita Aggarwal

The mysterious thing about couture is that it can’t be defined merely by the perspective of the designer and his vision.  The customer takes the final call, and that’s why each style guru has a legion of devotees, who patronise the brand and understand its finer nuances.

“Noor” by Suneet Varma his ICW 2021 line began with an ode to the yesteryear Bollywood number, starring the rugged Dharmendra and the nubile Tanuja, reminding you of the swinging 60s and Rafi sahib’s immortal voice.  But the designer’s love for luxury, photography and classic silhouettes is as established as his fervent training under none other than Yves Saint Laurent.

There might not have been a Le Smoking jacket in this mix, but it takes more than just courage for a brand like SV to survive for 30 years in a space that has vanquished many stalwarts. Suneet besides his love for cherry red, which he didn’t just give brides but grooms too, emblazoned with silver and gold zari work, created a film with a storyboard of memories complete with old photographs, and a sparkling new Mini Cooper.

The collection spoke of champagne hues, silk georgettes to tanchoi making an interesting contrast where the brides and bridesmaids wore subdued ivories but the groom and his friends opted for pink waistcoats and sunshine yellows kurtas.

Baby pink shararas, scalloped backs, and shaded embroideries, may see a fleeting appearance but what has been the biggest trend this year is the bride’s desire to abandon the heavy double dupatta (one to sit on her shoulder and the other to cover her head) and instead opt for the much lighter and convenient veil as well as the long embroidered trail that reminds you of the glamour of Priyanka Chopra’s palace wedding.