Varun Bahl may be occupying prime space in newspapers for his association with Bollywoods hit director Karan Johar for his menswear line, but what sets him apart is his continuous search for newness. It is this frantic need for something unique that has led to the birth of his couture line, India, Nouveau, which he believes is as commercially viable as it was creatively challenging. Karan understands fashion, and is amazing to work with. He wont be coming for my show, but is flying down for Manish (Malhotras) fashion extravaganza, he says.
But guests are in for a surprise, as Varun has attempted to break away from the set mould of what is perceived in India as couture, bridal wear and gone in for a global approach that addresses the needs of occasion wear and not just grand weddings.
With black remaining the dominating colour, and lightweight ensembles being the overriding theme, watching India through Varuns eyes will hopefully set the tone of the PCJ Delhi Couture Week opening, as broken black mirrors help create a gothic-ish feel, and the Indian arches remind you of the Golden era gone by.
With help from interior designer Praneel Arora, Varun has given the runway a Sheesh Mahal, Palace of Mirrors, (built by Shahjahan in 1631AD) look, but it is a modern interpretation, with an edgy twist. I am glad Im opening the Couture Week, my show breaks myths, so it is quite apt, he smiles as he nervously fixes a pleat on a model during the fittings.
Black, according to Varun, never went anywhere, just like red and coral, two hues he is convinced will make a fitting comeback on the runway.
India, Nouveau may be a heady mix of old and new India, but for Varun, it was all about making a statement. Almost 80 per cent of his line is exploratory, where he has introduced innovative cuts, added sleeves in duppattas and pallus, made it bolder by adding a sexy touch with transparency, played with layering, and of course the highlight is the national bird, the peacock which you will see flying off everywhere on his ensembles or just sitting pretty in a corner. The peacock too has metamorphosised, it is no longer blue, but black, gold and even red. It is more about placements and proportions than conforming to a set notion or pattern. The rest of the 20 per cent of my line is for the lovers of traditional bridal wear, but I would insist even that too is quite stylish, he concludes.