If ever there was a collection in Indian couture that would go down in history as gilt-edged, this would be it. Sabyasachi peaks to a crescendo with his 2015 couture collection.
If Sabyasachi’s self indulgence can lead to unparalleled decadence in design as presented in his collection Bater, then by all means he must gratify his creativity. Burlesque, baroque and untamed fashion finds expression in themes of bondage, power, intimidation and glory. The raconteur spins a glamorous tale of formidable fashion- a distinctively strong and powerful facade is underlined with a delicate and fragile subtext, as he plays with the idea of “the amalgamation of virile strength with the fragile.”
The glamorous and seductive collection was sexual and powerful in silhouette, style and design. Floor sweeping capes and jackets dazzled with heavily embroidered yet intricately detailed thread and sequin work. The play on fabrics and the asymmetrical layering achieved the designer’s aim for fragmentation and mutilation. Cigarette and churidar-pants in sheer fabrics, worn under unsymmetrically cut dresses, corset blouses and jackets were reminiscent of costume from the medieval ages.
The designer presented risqué fashion with deep cut backs and transparent fabrics. Towing a strong line meant the colour palette was restricted to black, grey, ivory and deep reds. Chotu Saris, teamed with churidars, fringed capes worn over embroidered jumpsuits, gowns and saris with jackets and coats added character to the bold collection.
The designer does away with the traditional lehenga and reinvents it dramatically. His menswear collection too juxtaposes strong structure with delicate detailing and embroidery. The gilded bandhgalas and achkans fit for nobility, evoked an era nearly forgotten.
The shoe collaboration between Louboutin and Sabyasachi resulted in the designer doing away with his bold and chunky style, in exchange for super feminine and sexy stilettos. It was desire on the runway. Louboutin reworked his glamorous heels to reflect the quirky and avant grade style of the Kolkota based designer.
The set itself was the showstopper for the evening, consisting of three larger than life constructed cages or strong holds. The applause for an unparalleled show resonated loud and clear, as Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Chirstian Louboutin made their way down the runway.