The brilliant Gaurav Jai Gupta (Akaaro) pays a touching tribute to the first environmental referendum in favour of the Dongria Khond tribe of Odisha.
By Asmita Aggarwal
I am not a Leftist, but I am ashamed about how politicians and corporate in this country behave; how we are a hyper capitalist market consumed by excessiveness, says the superbly talented Gaurav Jai Gupta of the label Akaaro.
Social injustice makes him think, feel and understand the plight of those who do not have a voice and in the process of taking up a cause, he also discovered that music, his first love, is a great form of non-violent protest.
WordSoundPower is a Delhi-based collective, which travelled to Orissa to save the Adivasi Dongria Khond tribe, nature worshippers protesting against a corporate, who tried to mine bauxite (670 hectares) on their sacred land, the Niyamgiri Hills (Kalahandi district, Odisha). It is home to their deity Niyamraja; the mining will spoil the delicate ecological balance and verdant beauty of the hills where they reside.
In a first for the judiciary, an environmental referendum was passed in favour of the tribe. My line titled V for Vendetta is a celebration of this revolution against corruption, also a discourse against chronic capitalism which is seeping into our hectic lives. So all the colours and fabrics are based on the Khond tribe, says Gaurav.
One of the few designers who believe in using fashion as an effective vehicle of communication, Gaurav never wanted to be a designer, a tag he greatly dislikes. And he will admit that he cant sketch, doesnt do pattern cutting and his greatest weakness is not being able to stitch, but despite that his marvelous textile drenched creations are based on the ancient art of draping, which he revels in.
Thats why he believes elegance is within a person and more in conduct than in clothes. Elegance neednt be feminine and romantic it can also be dark and disturbing so there are various connotations to it, it isnt so limited at the micro level, he says.
Fashion for him remains a subjective discipline, after all its main aim is consumption, and is driven by commerce, maybe thats why he is not so easily inspired rather he takes references from the things that move him. I like something that pushes me to think, music is one big factor in my life, if I had a choice I would pursue it. But visual experiences move me, certain portions of cinema, architecture, landscape and the current state of the nation have been my motivations. So my inspiration is layered, its not so simplistic, he confesses.
If you are already not a fan, hear this. Gaurav will tell you that fashion has a lot to do with intellectualism, at least that what he believes. I would like to think that the women who wear my clothes are cerebral. Fashion reflects society and what you wear is the end result of that mirror image and how you perceive yourself, he laughs.
So his minimal designs are meant to make a woman happy, its just that, there is no deep theory involved in it for him, beyond that thought. When you are worry-less and comfortable you feel good and trendy. So this whole being in vogue thing is something I cant fathom, he admits.
In a country obsessed with excess and bling, Gauravs understated ideas are moving, even though he feels more can be less and vice versa. You can do a lot of embroidery if you like, but it must be done beautifully, so if thats what you call excess I am game for it; you need to find a balance that works. I have nothing against Kings of Maximalism though I like to present calmer, subtle lines, he says.
Not wanting to be trapped in the same ideology for the last six seasons, constant evolution is what Gaurav strives for, and says with a grin, I can surprise people anytime, as I dont have a look I have to conform to; my subjects change with every season and thats what keeps me from getting bored.
In a world which is seeking perfection, Gaurav is quite the opposite, he feels it is a mirage, as it doesnt exist, humans are flawed as a race, so applause or criticism doesnt greatly affect him, if he feels he has done what he was excited about in a collection. Summer clothes are always easier to do, but when you work with wool, you have to get the proportions right and most women want movement in their clothes which in winter is tough, he says.
Thats why many times Gaurav has skipped seasons, as he doesnt believe in fast fashion, and if you ask him how he keeps it current and new, he will tell you that people who were born in the 90s for them vintage is new, so whats fresh in your arithmetic is what you would like to buy.
A lover of music, Gaurav says that he is in fashion as thats what he studied, maybe he could earn more if it was medicine that he pursued, but he is in the fray not for the money but the love of it. Music is what moves me, it lifts your mood instantly, it has this invisible power, thats for me is so refreshing, he concludes.
