Novita Yunus, winner of the Fashion Forward award at the Jakarta Fashion Week, is all set to present her collection, Bumi Langit (Earth and Sky), at the Amazon India Fashion Week Autumn/Winter 2017. Bringing Indonesian batik to the forefront Yunus is trying embrace both sustainability and modest fashion
How and when did you start designing?
It started in 2009. I quit my job as a banker and I chose to be a designer for womens bags made out of batik. Since Im a bag person, I realised that there are only few businesses that are using high quality batik and this made the challenge exciting for me.
What are the various kinds of batiks that are there in Jakarta?
Indonesia is a very rich country in terms of batik heritage. Batik is available all over Indonesia from Java and the island of Sumatera to Papua. We have some icons from Jakarta as well. For example: butterfly, Gambir Jasmine flower, Bulus or turtle. I made the Ocean collection for Jakarta Fashion Week, 2016.
What has made batik withstand the test of time?
Batiks heritage is rooted in Indonesian culture and tradition clothes for new-born babies, for teenagers, married couples, harvesting, during the worship of king and queen, and before were buried in the grave it is used on many occasions. That is how batik has withstood the test of time.
How have you been able to combine the artfulness of batik with a contemporary-ness that the need of the hour demands?
Im a visual person. During my process, I try to hunt for batik material, and then I try to mix it with todays trends or my customers demands. For example, I used batik in modest wear for Muslim women who wear hijab. I made kaftans with long blouses. For formal events, I created embroidered kebaya with batik, not only for apparels, but also bags and accessories.
Can you tell us what all does your label offer and what is the price range?
NY by Novita Yunus offers apparels and bags. For bags, the price range from Rp 5,00,000 (INR. 2,475) to Rp 5,000,000 (INR. 24,750) and apparels started from Rp 850,000 (INR. 4,208) to Rp 5,000,000 (INR. 24,750).
What are your views on Indian fashion and which are the designers you admire?
India is very rich in producing textiles the colours, patterns and materials are of outstanding quality to be exported around the world. Thats why Im very grateful to visit India and learn more about its fashion and textiles industry. I admire Bibhu Mohapatra and Amrich. They are very bold and make mesmerising designs.
What will you be showcasing at the India Fashion week?
The Bumi Langit (Earth and Sky) Autumn/Winter 2017 collection by NY is prepared for the Amazon India Fashion Week 2017. The collection is inspired by the idea of balancing the colour palettes of the autumn leaves and the cold winter sky. Bumi is represented by the falling leaves and Langit is symbolised by the Surya Majapahit (The Sun of the Kingdom of Majapahit). It has taken the form of a cosmological diagram haloed by typical “Surya Majapahit” sun rays, as the sign of wisdom, hope, and glory.
The collection has used various materials and techniques, such as eco-print process, Batik Remekan, Garut Handwoven and embroidered clothes. Eco-print is a method of taking the colour and pattern of leaves on different kind of textiles. Example: silk, rayon, organic cotton, and natural fibre. Next is Batik Remekan, an authentic method from West Java, the wax or malam is fully spread all over the textiles, then squeezed and cracked before theyre coloured. Last, there is Garut Handwoven, a traditional textile made from silk with geometry shapes. The colours of earth and sky are expressed in varieties of kaftans, palazzos, traditional embroidered kebayas and other fashion items. We have combined ochre, dark chocolate, light brown, olive green for earth tone with dark blue and silver for sky shade. The matching accessories consist of clutches, fringed tote bags, Surya-Majapahit-inspired gold plated necklaces, brooches and buckled belts. Kalimantan rattan sandals complete the look.
What is your exposure to the Indian fashion industry? And, what do you find similar between India and Jakarta in terms of fashion?
There is a lot of potential in the crafts and textiles to go global. And, both countries try to mix modern with their traditional heritage into a sophisticated style.
Would you like to retail from here?
Yes, of course! It would be a great opportunity for my brand.
Can you tell us a bit about how batik is made?
Firstly, we prepare the textiles, such as cotton or silk. Then, we draw on it and put the wax or malam, following the design which has been drawn. Later on, we colour them with natural or synthetic dye and boil it in the pot of water to melt down the wax. Let them dry, without direct sunlight, and batik is ready.
How do you the paradigm of fashion in Jakarta is shifting? Is it trying to be modern yet in some ways adding traditional elements?
As far as I can see, yes, the designers are trying to be modernyet try to add traditional elements. Even though the fashion is modernwe want to support the craftsman who made batik and other materials that we use. In this way, we can keep the Indonesian heritage alive and bring it to the global industries.
Why do you think you won the Fashion Forward award at the Jakarta Fashion Week?
I was honoured to be in the 2nd generation of Indonesian Fashion Forwards incubation program. I feel its because Im focusing on bringing unpopular and almost extinct textiles in Indonesia to the forefront. Also, I create my own designs, which are directly made by craftsmen. I always try to make clothes that can mutually benefit and be sustainable for everyone involved in the processespecially the craftsmen, the tailors, society, and the environment.