From canary yellow shoes, to men in corsets, sequinned flowers on power shoulders, slogan tees that told you to ‘Grow’, the Chivas Luxe Collective Perfumes presents FDCI India Men’s Weekend 2025 was an eye opener for the intrepid new man-unafraid of embroidery and red.
By Asmita Aggarwal
When you get trained by the best in the business, you have an undeniable edge, Rohit Gandhi and Rahul Khanna was his first job. After Central Saint Martins, Sahil Aneja didn’t want to get into his family business which was anyway fledging-printing press for local newspapers. Though what he did learn from there was colour theory, and of course, participating in painting competitions in school, which was the propeller for him to try design.
After a master’s in business management from Auckland, he knew fashion and specifically menswear was his calling. “I have seen men take a lot more chances, quirky hues to fun factors are now part of their wardrobes. That’s what we have done in ‘Play’ our collection for India Men’s Weekend—graphics to denims,” he says. To this he added slouchy, oversized, and layering rather than structured shapes. Though he credits social media, celebs, and influencers with the innate desire to look different. ‘Play’ comes armed with power shoulders, olive green hoodies, checks with flying threads hanging from mildly embroidered jackets.
As slogans are now everywhere, Sahil is not far behind, from ‘Grow’ with mushroom prints, to baby elephants riding a bicycle, done in polyblends, crushed cottons, and linens discovering his niche after ten years. “I wasn’t sure if my clothes would sell, but I realised you have to keep adapting, moving forward, best to go with your instincts,” he smiles.
Pawan Sachdeva’s C’est Chic
Influencer Ms Coco Queen Sukhneet Wadhwa opened the show in a tee which announced what was to come- C’est chic. ‘Lights camera and fashion’, ‘Transform criticism into creativity’, it said on men’s blue shirts, along with bottle green co-ord sets. Magenta is now officially a man’s hue, they have adopted it religiously, and tie ups are deliberately left untied. Faded prints are everywhere along with paint splatter, Zig zag threadwork running all over monochrome dresses which told us in bold, ‘Creatives are new athletes’ and ‘Your comfort zone will kill you’. Ah yes, how can we forget TV actor Shalin Bhanot and his antics on the runway!
Varun Bahl’s sequinned florals
What happens when red and black shimmer from atop a fort that is almost 200 years old? Magic! Can it get better? Floral placement embroidery, sheer kurtas, harem pants, in gossamer white and delicate watercolour florals. When you keep it white like Varun, with splashes of colour, add little shimmer in the flowers, as if a child has coloured inside them, pop of sequins, you know style is all about less not more.
Varun’s models decided to abandon briefcases and clutch shimmering unabashed crimson handbags. Dhotis sparkled with red dots, hoping you can share them with your wife too! Japanese style Obi belts, but broader, were thunderous; his constant companions in 20 years have been florals, maybe it’s his trips as a child to Kashmir that subconsciously spills on to his collections.
Rohit and Rahul’s placement embroidery
The newest thing in menswear is how you play with embroidery, the duo known for their clean cuts in a golden palette, and fabric belts gave us a heavy dose of beadwork jackets, in the form of droplets on well-toned shoulders. Pearls are now making sure they replace zardozi, as cowl necks edge out traditional collars. Though if you are intrepid enough you can try a fully sequinned pants suit or their engineered kurtas with unexpected cuts that accompanied Peshawari juttis, as 20s flapper tassels swung on jackets.
Mandira Wirk’s pastel prints
What happens when you begin a show with a bare-chested Sahil Salathia, and a saxophone player? Well, you get everyone’s attention. Icy blue prints, bodysuits, interesting abstracts, trench coats, basically a lot of Sex and the City appeal. Think sarongs, the line was young and fun just like the designer, and her first outing with menswear.
Mahima Mahajan
If you like big, bold flowers and velour, in shades of navy blue as well as oversized coats, with crystal butterflies with wings spread over sherwanis, she is your girl!
Nikita M’s men in corsets
Listen men can wear cappuccino prints and the tiger is really enjoying his day in the spotlight, sometimes inverted on dresses. Nikita got men in high waisted denims, sequinned vests placed under natty bomber jackets. The new place to place embroidery is the shoulders and back, just putting it out there. Lastly, men are now in corsets, denim ones, no longer a reserve for lithe women.
Ashish Soni’s icy blue check suits
Sailors are now making it to runways (metaphorically), that is their caps and pure whites, only this time, with checks on suits. Men are unafraid to wear super roomy shorts, lace ties, and check jackets with happy little embroidered flowers. Denim has really changed colours—decided to go white, as blush pink check suits, and lemon-yellow jackets make sure, men are embracing colour like never before. Those with a certain rocker attitude can try the denims which caress the bottom of your sneakers and you get those turned in hems, by sheer wear and tear! Well, that’s now fashion!
Shantanu and Nikhil’s poet
Nikhil’s young son Vivhan opened the show with a book, tulips and a poem, of course wearing a cropped jacket. There is something about men in skirts, which requires courage; the brothers had their signature draped pleated kurtas in ivories and sometimes just bunched up which looked natty.
The ode to a Bengali poet, literature lovers, bespectacled men took you to the baitaks of old Calcutta only this time the ensembles were British pants reminding you of colonial era, complete with broad waistbands. Men have made space in their wardrobes for roomy chiffon palazzos. Really! Not kidding.
Manoviraj Khosla’s funky shoes
If there is anyone who can put men in all kinds of colours of footwear-flaming reds, emerald green, canary yellow, silver, embroidered and sequinned, it is Khosla. Not to forget his love for denim shoes with a line of pearls. Olive green patchwork or just the good old golden with black tassels. For the fearless, there is always tangerine.
