Connecting the Dots

Chennai’s Vivek Karunakaran, a first-timer at WIFW SS15 pays a heady tribute to Aboriginal art, by celebrating the sovereignty of the circle

By Asmita Aggarwal

After six seasons, Chennai-based Vivek Karunakaran is a bit more sure-footed then he was after graduating from NIFT, launching his label in 2007. Finishing, attention to details, colour blocking and play of fabrics, is his forte, and this SS 15, Vivek is telling a story about indigenous artists, the Aborigines of Australia and their much celebrated dot paintings.

Papunya Tula art originated in the region by the same name, near Alice Springs, Western deserts of Australia, where each symbol or motif has religious and spiritual connotations. The Papunya Tula Artists Society was formed in 1972 as an attempt to integrate different tribes in Australia. “What is fascinating is that they are untrained and have such superior aesthetics that their use of geometry in the concentric circles, or U shapes as well as animals and birds is a visual language par excellence. Even though I haven’t visited or interacted with Aboriginal artists I could understand their warm, exuberant brush strokes. We have used their paintings and depicted it in a graphic manner, with textures and prints created with tiny dots as a base,” says Vivek.

Geoffrey Bardon, who had come to Papunya, trained and prodded Aborigines to take up this art form, hoping to build their self-confidence, which turned into a revolution with today this craft recognised globally. “The paintings display their connection with the environment and sacred land. And this kind of propelled me to include it in design—-its uninhibited, pure and raw appeal struck a chord with me,” says Vivek.

 Moving away from a relaxed, easy feel, Vivek has added edgy volume with separates ranging from cropped tops, layered over shirts, palazzos, Chanderi jackets. Blending in cotton, silk with linen, the line uses patching and panelling to offer diverse cuts and proportions. “I hope my line is a fitting tribute to the seminal works of these extraordinary artists, who have used paintings as an effective form of self-expression,” he concludes.