Anamika Khanna preserves heritage with age-old processes and new-age thinking
By Asmita Aggarwal
The beauty that reverberates in Anamika Khannas collections is not only in its timelessness, but innate detailing which makes each piece unique in character and succinct in interpretation. Maybe thats why AK has withstood the test of time and tide, and attempted to reinvent the wheel without catering to fads or what the market demands.
This democracy of thought can be seen in the way she has raised her twins Viraj and Vishesh, the latter handling the menswear line and the former more inclined towards art, holding his first exhibition of sculptures in Kolkata. I think I let them be; find their own path, if they wanted to just play golf, I never interfered, she smiles.
Good values get translated in her thinking too, her ingenious themes, how she makes connections and produces each year extraordinary ensembles dripping with culture and soaked in traditional craft techniques. I want to make collectables, as the world has understood the need to revisit heirloom textiles, things which have forever imprinted on them, the lockdown really pushed me to evaluate, she admits.
Locked at home with factories shut, gave the designer a lot of time to self-introspect, she observed how in nanoseconds life could be vanquished, chaos made her re-jig the need for clothing, and what purpose they solve. I just needed to preserve what we all had. Also I discovered what I didnt know surreptitiously existed in my wardrobe while being at home, it was similar to a treasure hunt, she confesses. The feeling this year was not to do a dazzling runway show, but express the myriad emotions she felt during the most testing time for people in distress.
Anamikas line talks about the need to buy/save/reuse heritage pieces, picking up something from her and wearing it for posterity. The story telling is about a young girl, finding her grandmothers trunk, which reveals some glorious textiles. She knows she wants them, she cant abandon them, but she needs to find a way to modernise and wear them, says AK, and thats just what she did.
Techniques involved some serious slashing, cutting and tearing the most expensive embroidery pieces she had to create new shapes with material explorations, adding to her understated opulence. The highlight is the innovative use of metallic thread which was lying around in the factory that changed the mood of the entire line.
Anamika is the undisputed queen of elegance, but she is not afraid to dive into the deep end of the ocean to try something absolutely new, which she attempted with AK-OK. It was an initiative that is not exactly prêt, but somewhere close to it. Doing something which one can wear daily is challenging, if you succeed you have understood the market, she exclaims. And it would bore her, if she knew she has perfected an art, and continued to do it for 25 years without attempting newer processes.
A lot of people are talking about sustainability, but I think real sustainability is when you wear an Anamika Khanna piece for 50 years and you still want to keep it for your grandkids, she admits. And even though the world has seen the greatest depression, both literally and metaphorically, with fuel prices sky rocketing and essentials getting pricier, Anamika believes it will turn around. If you observe history, after every such gut wrenching defeat, the world will rise, no matter how dark the night it, dawn is inevitable. Luxury will remain, for a discerning few, buying will be more concentrated, revenge buying will happen, we all live on hope, dont we? she asks. Indeed! She has retained her artisans, got her factory running, adapted and helped brides customise. It was an effort, maybe 20 times more, it took a lot of energy but we did it, she admits.
A sense of underlined positivity defines this line, with interesting surface texturing, fresh shapes away from her famous dhotis, saris with belts and capes. As hope floats, Anamika is now on her next big thing and that is decor, a space that has always excited her. From candles, teapot, wall pieces, partitions a bit of everything will be available breaking restrictive thinking of how such designs must be constructed. It will be retailed from the AK-Ok stores and frankly, if I like the cover of a book, Ive read multiple times, you might just find it there, she signs off!
Highlight:
Anamika Khanna has been greatly influenced by art and her son Virajs omnipresence can be seen in this line too, albeit obliquely. He is currently holding an exhibition titled What my mother didnt teach me in Kolkata. The metaphorical use of colour that the pandemic has drained out of our lives and how nature takes it own course, returns like spring. It is translated through the medium of live painting.
The most riveting part of the line is the effortless manner in which AK tweaks existing silhouettes like the Sharara. Makes it shorter and crisper giving it a new avatar, much like the kimono with the obi, belted and printed. The tribal influences can be seen in her luscious embroidery techniques, heightened on collars and exaggerated shoulders. Wraps become the mainstay as her fleeting signature cape gets opaque. The virtual show ends with models which resemble the real life Anamika long, straight hair in a one shoulder dress!