Payal Pratap

JAVA by PAYAL PRATAP X BEMBERG

The age-old unique craft of Batik was named after the Javanese words “Amba” which means to write and “Titik”, which translates to a dot or a point.   Having spent some early formative years in Indonesia, Payal Pratap takes a nostalgic journey with this collection aptly named “JAVA”.

With a focus on prints the designer has worked on hand painted artworks which have then been digitized.  The designs capture detailed elements and a three-dimensional depth and texture from the age-old crafts of Batik and powerful imagery and minute detailing from the ancient craft of Chintz printing.  Chintz comes from the Hindi word Cheent, meaning spotted or speckled.  Both these techniques and crafts have been used in a contemporary context while creating the prints and art works.

The prints encompass flora and fauna, bringing nature from the outside to the inside through the use of extensive flower, leaf, tree, vines and bird motives, as an ode to sustainability.

Vibrant Indigo hues and deep shades of burgundy intertwine and are also separately used on ivories to create myriad patterns using dots and strokes.  Traditionally the use of ivory while making Chintz reflected purity, health and cleanliness, all signifying things that are becoming increasingly rare and precious, a luxury.

Placement prints have been engineered to make tailored jackets and structured pieces.  A timeless collection comprising experimental pieces that blend the far east with India.  Wrap jumpsuits, lungi skirts, wide leg pants, knotted skirts and pieces with a crossover bodice.  A collection signaling holiday with a burst of colour.  Sequins have been sparingly used to create a 3D texture and give life to the flowers and motifs.  Applique jackets and bold patterned overlays bring relief from the prints and create interesting layered looks.

Bemberg in various avatars ranging from satins, muslins, mulmul, and silk blends have been used to create a collection with fluid drapes as well as structure.  The fabric takes printing and colour beautifully and has a slight sheen and glazed feel which resonates with chintz.  The colour palette ranges from indigos, browns, rust, to burgundy brick and gold.

The collection has bold prints, large floral patterns and there is no holding back on the rush of color or the exuberance that is hard to disguise.  This is clearly a return to maximalism, reminiscent of the good old days.  A harbinger of better times to come.