Amit GT hopes to bring back long trails and tells us why 13 years ago women hesitated to wear his bustled gowns until Eva Longoria stepped in….

By Asmita Aggarwal

The year 2008 was when Amit GT made his debut on the catwalks of the domestic scene, little did he know that he was hoping to change the world with his offerings. He started making gowns for an Indian audience that maybe wasn’t yet ready to adapt, it was 13 years ago and Amit says that’s when he decided to turn his gaze to the European markets.  “I really believed in what I had embarked upon and you can say in some ways I swam against the tide. I remained firm and didn’t tweak my sensibility to suit Indian tastes,” says Amit who showed his line at the India Couture Week 2021.

The year 2016, a gown revolution took over as the new bride wanted an edgy outfit for her sangeet and now it is almost a norm! But Amit had left for greener pastures, and there was no looking back as he dressed Hollywood stars from Eva Longoria to Rachel Weiz, got an overwhelming response from the Middle-East but maintained a small but loyal clientele in India. “Now when I see the market, I was never off track, it feels good to know I have girls who came to me many years ago, still ordering,” he explains.

Textures have been the NIFT graduate’s forte intermingled with his love for bustles and trails, and of course creating magic with organza which only when you watch closely resemble feathers. “This year I did sari drapes as well as sari dresses, earlier such ensembles would be seen only on the red carpet, but now they are being worn at every Indian wedding,” he smiles.

His ICW line “Scintilla”, or light that the world needs right now as it has been ravaged by the pandemic, brings back bright and happy, signifying hope. Brush stroke embroidery techniques tell us a story in duchesse and satin gowns, alternating between thick and thin, depicting nature at its best.

Shooting at UdaiVilas, Udaipur needed exploration of the correct angles to accentuate his 20-piece collection that brought out the classical with the modern. “We shot till 2 in the morning from capturing the morning sunlight, to making sure we had different locations for our pieces. The hand work and draping had to shine through and as most of my line is elaborate, I kept the colour wheel subdued,” he explains.

Mocha, rose quartz, lilac to cranberry set the stage alive in gazar as it holds shapes beautifully, organza, satin and his constant companion tulle which adds dollops of femininity is malleable — can play soft and hard making it ideal for pattern cutting. “Brides who want to buy an outfit won’t look at the price tag, they may buy less, but they want the best. The only difference I see working internationally is that women buy couture to feel good, in India it is restricted to weddings,” he confides.

“Fairy tales” he believes still exist and remain an eternal favourite theme, but what has altered is additions and subtractions to the existing gown. “We now give the option to change your gown or lehenga into a simpler outfit by offering detachable bustles. Many may disagree, but I really believe in the next ten years, long trails will be the big thing, which is also what I have done this year,” he concludes.