Much like the people of Punjab, the colourful threadwork executed in vibrant hues, Phulkari, made a sparkling entry, along with three showstoppers on the glitzy catwalk—Jacqueline Fernandes, Siddharth Malhotra and Esha Gupta. I tend to work with one craft at a time, it was Kashmiri, then Chikankari, Phulkari has a certain unmistakable spunk, that creates a peppy mood, almost instantly, says Manish. The front row was buzzing with veteran actress and Manish supporter Shabana Azmi, Pernia Qureshi and Malvika Poddar of Carma, but the dazzlers were the silk palazzos, net angarakhas, interesting gotta patti of sleeves and georgette shararas.
The real gem of the day was the reticent style guru Rajesh Pratap Singh who gave wool a fashionable address. Never has ikkat been done so magnificently, revving up even the simplest flap dresses, or the complicated dyeing techniques that Rajesh used to create an Autumn mood, with falling leaves that crumble with even the slightest touch. The challenge for me was to punch holes in the felt coats that we did, without the fabric giving away, it was tough but not impossible. I kind of enjoyed the journey, says Rajesh.
If you saw closely the patchwork on mens suits was finished impeccably, and the lines between menswear and womenwear had kind of blurred with well structured tweed suits for women with impactful splashes of wine red. The cowls in draped dresses, and the circular pockets on coats with zipper details and even a tiny pocket, along with dhoti pants in many ways displayed Rajeshs mastery over his craft. For me, as a designer to get my dyeing right was a big high, working with Merino wool and understanding how it can be transformed into something basic with clean lines was my attempt, he adds.
As Rajeshs muddy hues left a heart-warming effect, Ekru by Ekta Jaipuria and Ruchira Kandharis vibrant colours made it a winter carnival. With anarkalis teamed up with zardosi embroidered potlis, flaming red tunics, haldi coloured net saris and magenta, wedge Kolhapuris, along with parrot greens and tangerines, ensured a celebratory mood. The sexy cholis and embroidered sleeves of kurtis, monochromatic trimmings, net layered lehengas gave the Chanderis and Matka silks a snazzy makeover.
Designer and ace photographer Rajdeep Ranawat, who has been in the past fascinated by the Italian paradise Santorini, didnt give his prints a miss, nor did he skip the crystal encrusted headbands, but what he added was clutches. So they came in myriad interpretations—zardosi embroidered, velvet bags, snake skin print clutches in forest green and reptile prints. The longer and slimmer the better in clutches, crystallised, or textured in python skin prints are so in. We also see a lot of studs and spikes for that edgy look, says Rajdeep.
Master of layering, Kolkata-based Kiran Uttam Ghosh, played with Mandarin and high collars as cheongsams, body hugging dresses, Japanese style with thigh baring slits made a statement on the runway. The polo neck choli was an interesting innovation and so was the little military detail.