JJ Valaya gives Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky’s haunting compositions a befitting interpretation through his beatific ikats and ombre dyeing, creating a mood for resplendence

By Asmita Aggarwal

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Persian carpets, Bolshoi inspired magnificent domes, a swashbuckling, genie-style red door, and a battalion of celeb show stoppers from the timelessly elegant sarod wielding brothers Aman and Ayaan Ali Bangash to India’s No.1 polo player Sameer Suhag and lensman Samar Jodha, it was JJ Valaya’s signature outing, revisiting old times.

Interestingly, his love for crafts and Indian-ness was apparent in his tie back cholis, revealing delicate, tasselled backs as his double shaded saris with zardosi borders made a play for grandeur. The ubiquitous dhoti pants have re-emerged on the runway unabashedly, this time, worn with cropped jackets. Ombre dyeing remains JJ’s favourite and this time he gave his hot pinks a subtle twist by offsetting them with white, in his sheer layered dresses.

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Winter got a snug feel with the faux fur stoles, collars, caps and fur lined side sling bags, as JJ’s cobalt blue jackets and printed kaftans with zari edges, effortlessly fastened with gold-dust belts illuminated the shimmering yolks of his sassy tunics.

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Much like the epithet, Bolshoi or ‘grand’ in Russian, JJ’s interpretation was in keeping with the theme, with ornate headgears created by the talented Nitya Arora. His digital printing revived the heady motifs of the era when ikats, and of course, the lilting music of irreplaceable Russian composer Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky’s Swan Lake and The Sleeping beauty was at the pinnacle of classic-ism in the hammer and sickle country.

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