Pratap channels the need to embrace austerity, just like Anjana and Ankita Bhargav as fashion shows all its hues from simple to snazzy
By Asmita Aggarwal
No selfie mania, flash of a million lightbulbs, jostling in queues, inaudible thump of Blahniks on carpeted floors, or the finest shawls draped over nimble shoulders, just good old fashion, and listen everyone got a front row seat. It was the king of beginnings of the phygital LMIFW SS21 show and there is no one better than the undisputed Raja of pin tucks Rajesh Pratap Singh, who displayed human angst through a collection that was soaked in the need to go back in time— literally and metaphorically.
Maybe thats why his models, in a very Japan-esque avatar, dressed in white high collared pleated dresses, with bold bell sleeves were surrounded by oxygen cylinders. Yes, we all needed it, with the pandemic proving to be a force to reckon with, plundering through both our financial and emotional stability.
Rajesh is a man of very few words, and those utterances are often after much persuasion, he is a believer in the philosophy, let the clothes do the talking. But this time, he announced the desire of humankind to not chase the finish line, but celebrate the present in its entirety. As his natural-dyed, buttery smooth jackets which came emblazoned with polka dots, translucent dhoti pants, inventive layering, and his pyjama style trousers with tie ups, worn by barefoot models showcased his interesting pattern cutting techniques, not on a glitzy runway, but to the tunes of birds chirping in the background. It reminded us all, that nature is the real master. The equaliser!
In continuation of this theme, Dhi, by Ankita and Anjana Bhargav hoped to show the need for simplicity, where bottle greens met ash greys in a very Zen-like line. White seems to be the colour of choice and small details are making a big impression this season, like the tiny embroidered flower carelessly placed on the sleeve of a dress. It is goodbye to any frills or embellishment for the duo, who has used the bunched up technique at the back of jackets to give fluid structure. The mood was tone-on-tone, and the folded and pleated pants as well as button down dresses whispered austerity. Asymmetry, interesting stitching details, mirrored what the word is moving to —- a deeper connection with oneself.
Day 1 of the LMIFW SS21 was a mixed bag, as opposites really attract or they could distract. The quiet Nitin Bal Chauhan, is one of the most well read style gurus, his interests range from Franz Kafka to Camus, this year, he brought back memories of the Jallianwala Massacre, of 1919, when General Reginald Dyer, the military commander of Amritsar opened fire, killing 379 innocent people. Victorian pleated collars were reminiscent of the British, while the almost gothic presentation reminded us of the unforgettable horrors inflicted. It was a story told in bondage and buckles, it spoke of submission and aggression through the medium of steel mesh and chains reflecting broken souls with zippers placed sporadically.
Namrata Joshipura, opened the show, with foot thumping beats, showcasing luxe sporty chic looks, in her inimitable style. Snazzy visors, embellished headphones, double lapelled suits with a subtle, in built silver sheen with surface texturing were heart warming. Has the need for pearl encrusted, tone-on-tone dresses, tiered short dresses, off shoulder wonders and high waisted pants waned? Most certainly not, as house parties and dressing up for yourself is now di rigueur.
