Swans as headdresses, garnets, and pearl wraps instead of cholis and of course the iconic ‘mover and shaker’ Helen on Monica Oh My darling, made Suneet accentuate all his first loves at ICW 2025.
By Asmitaa Aggaarwal
For many years one has noticed “dancing designers” the one famous for his enviable moves, Rohit Bal dressed in Jodhpurs and a crisp bandhgala has passed onto the next world leaving behind a mammoth legacy, but Suneet Varma is carrying forward that baton at ICW 2025 with his line “Sehr”. Of course, in his inimitable style— on Jaane Jaan dhoondta phir raha with Bebo’s moustached father Randhir Kapoor and bouffant Jaya Bachchan in the 70s hit Jiwani Diwani.
Somehow red is taking a backstage in couture making way for white the “it” colour for the season–sometimes no colour is the best colour. Suneet’s ramp is always reflective, of shine, he is never apologetic about it– pristine white lilies, swans and white palms with sparkling lights took a bow.
When you are around as long as Suneet, with ocean like experience – legendary Yves Saint Laurent to Judith Leiber, BMW, interiors, you know what works in a market that can’t get enough embellishment. Indians by DNA are celebratory, it is an inherent part of our cultural ethos.
His love for old classic Bollywood songs is apparent, little birds were flying on headdresses, complemented with sequined gowns accentuating every curve of the body—visualise black, gold, boas, faux feathers. The dupatta hangs on nimble shoulders, though by its own willpower, it has got thinner, bulk reduced—just like brides don’t want anything that restricts their movement.
Remember Samantha Jones in Sex and the City, played by Kim Cattrall with her unwavering loyalty to beaded bustiers, dripping flirtatiousness and bold pink flowers? Suneet kind of had that spirit of exuberance and nonchalance. Interestingly, shararas with zardosi on the notes of Monica… oh my darling took us back to Helen’s winged eyeliner, midnight blue eyeshadow and tiered ruffled dress, Suneet gave it a modern interpretation with gotta-patti style choga kurtas.
Pearl wraps instead of cholis, exaggerated sleeves, gold has always had a hold on occasion wear, everyone’s favourite polkis and jadaus were crafted into a blouse, as if you are wearing a necklace around your bosom with pearls dancing on your back.
Star daughter Riddhima Kapoor Sahni seemed comfortable on the catwalk, she exclaimed, “18 years ago I made my debut with Suneet, I’m here again now.” She also twirled for us, as Suneet clarified, “I live in my dream world –set, music presentation is part of who I am, obsessed with romantic music. Tried hard to change it to English sonatas but I can’t do it. This feels natural to me. Fashion is all I know how to do. I like to excel but in a non-competitive way. Thus, there is always debate on if this embroidered rose needs more crystals or whether sequins need better placement,” confesses Suneet.
This season- isn’t about reds and rani pinks but lilacs, greys, and obsidian blacks, the shararas is the queen of silhouettes now, tighter, flared, Suneet took it a notch up with semi-precious garnets!