Voluminous Sculpting
Giant moths on chests, cutwork forests on body huggers and you throw in a little of Henri Rousseau and a children book, The Fox and the Star, you get Rahul Mishras inspiration behind his LFW X FDCI 2024 AFEW line. By Asmita Aggarwal Would you ever wear the wing of a ...
No Gender Coding
There is a fragility in masculinity and Arjun Saluja finds this conundrum a collection-worthy theme. After six years he is back at the FDCI showcase at LFW with his gender bender clothing hoping to solve the puzzle of conditioning or at least question it! By Asmita Aggarwal Frankly, in fashion there ...
Revisiting roots
Whether it is Gaza, Kashmir, Syria or Ukraine, human exodus is captured poignantly through embroideries and embellishments as well as abstract outlines by the maverick Sushant Abrol of the menswear label Countrymade. By Asmita Aggarwal He had a child-like excitement every time he begins work on a new collection and ...
In India sex, humour, and politics sells
Jay Jajal founder of Jaywalking will tell you he is returning to simplicity, is excited about his test fit garment, calls his drawings ugly and reveals his USP is that he is a fabulous marketeer! By Asmita Aggarwal Jay Jajal aspired to be a rapper, and he thanks his good ...
Unmasking AI
Almost 36 Pearl students showcase the benefits and pitfalls of AI in AI is contagious, at LFW X FDCI 2024 with an interesting display of ideas through pixelation, distortions and translucency. By Asmita Aggarwal London, Milan, New York, and Paris, and India Fashion Week, almost over, fashion houses are ready ...
Measuring Up
S and N, the brothers Shantnu and Nikhil have replaced the mini "It" bag and given it to men, in dhotis and sexiness with abundant leg show for women along with dollops of shimmer. While quite the opposite was post-Soviet modest label Measure, which revealed the former Communist country is ...
Ready for a swim?
Saaksha Bhat and Kinnari Kamat launch a swimwear edition, complete with their signature micro pleating, and elevate it with quilting and ikat. But the Gujarati genes hold strong with their unadulterated love for mirror work! By Asmita Aggarwal Saaksha Bhat and her sister-in-law Kinnari Kamat, understand embroideries like no one ...
Monochrome Contrasts
Ritika Mirchandani offers tone-on-tone, summer pastels with placement bling for occasion wear this season. By Asmita Aggarwal My mother has been the most inspiring figure in my life. As a designer herself, she introduced me to the world of fashion from a very young age. Growing up surrounded by her ...
Princess of style
Niloufer Khanum of Hyderabad was the OG of fashion influencers with her Westernising the sari, adding exquisite pearls and it is this regality that Anushree Reddy recreates in organzas this season for the bride who chooses subtle shine over overt bling. By Asmita Aggarwal It has been a ten-year long ...
AK is Ok
The twins Vishesh and Viraj, one an artist, and the other born with a business acumen, embarked on a journey to give their mom Anamika Khanna a respite when they started AK-OK, but now it has a legion of followers owing to its unpredictable prints, placements raw embroideries, tattered denims ...
Alpha Women
Inca or incarnation by Amit Hansraj is for women who are mature, confident and know that clothes are extension of them not the other way round and it is this individuality that he hopes to celebrate each season. By Asmita Aggarwal Amit Hansraj has been in the fashion world for ...
Think Chill
Remember The Jetsons, and the 90s trend Vaporwave? Kanika Goyal brings that shiny high gloss vibe to the line she has designed for the American brand Skechers. By Asmita Aggarwal After four years at NIFT Delhi and then Parsons New York, where she studied for two years, Kanika Goyal was ...
An evening Soiree
Paras and Shalini of Geisha Designs offer sundowner clothing complete with cording, macrame, as nostalgia remains their anthem for this season, creating the various elements of nature, through fabric manipulations. By Asmita Aggarwal Olsen twins label The Row banned phones in their showcase recently at the Paris Fashion Week 2024 ...
Right to Repair
Ashita Singhal started as a curious fashion student wanting to know how to upcycle waste, and thats how Paiwand, her label was conceptualized. Winning the Nexa Spotlight and telling us that re-woven is austerity personified; she is consciously saving the planet one less stitch at a time. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Hoops of Hope
Nitya Arora of the accessories brand Valliyan celebrates its 15th anniversary by paying tribute to bugs and beetles, quiet warriors, in a new sci-fi avatar, who help balance our fragile eco-system through her brass and copper gold plated jewellery. By Asmita Aggarwal The brand got its name from her grandmothers blessings, ...
Wear Calm
Urvashi Kaur had all the makings of a hit showa bevy of intellectuals from Ratna Pathak Shah to Rasika Duggal as well as relaxed clothing armed with natty wraps, coppery saris, easy tie ups that announced the arrival of a comfortable spring, as she completed 15 years in the business ...
Valaya on wheels
From Chevrons to inclusivity, J J Valaya tells us individualistic women are the most fun to interact with and that his bridge line JJV Kapurthala is only helping you dress quicker and smarter. Asmita Aggarwal The shifting leaf Chevron which is the staple of JJ Valayas fashion house, was created ...
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Anish Malpani CDC winner tells us his journey from being a finance honcho in the US to recycling chip wrappers into chic eyewear, as he hopes to build a waste-free world where you wear his Without sunnies sans any guilt. Asmita Aggarwal Both his parents are doctors and till the ...
Simple Weaves
Gaurav Jai Gupta takes you on a journey to watch a Wes Anderson film through his ingenious weaving techniques, blazing ochres and endearing kinji saris in 'Moonrise'. Asmita Aggarwal When you must fight for everything you get, you take nothing for granted, and sometimes that story of struggle becomes a ...
One size fits all
Chola by Sohaya Misra is back after five years to tell us clothes must be alive, have movement and adjustable, defying conventional norms of dressing according to your size and body type. ...
Sari is the Chanel of luxury
Hand woven and timeless Gaurang Shah for LFW X FDCI 2024 is back with an ode to spring with Gulal, with hand painted charkha woven khadi saris. Asmita Aggarwal Designer Gaurang Shah, won the National Film Award for Best Costume Designer in the Telugu film Mahanati, directed by Nag Ashwin, ...
The War Within
Bomb blasts, barren land, soldier writings on walls and stones, how war destroys the fabric of mankind and its futility has been beautifully mirrored through deft stitches by Sushant Abrols label Countrymade. By Asmita Aggarwal From writing poetry, to working with 8-10 needlework techniques, using imagery of his late Air ...
Moon Power
Paying homage to the moon landing and Indias homegrown space programme Pearl Academy students delve into the future to showcase how it could be the next vacation destination through metallics, anti-gravity hair and hybrid ensembles. By Asmita Aggarwal The Chandrayaan-3 mission, was a homegrown one, as the country reached the lunar south polar region, India ...
Sari Stories
From jersey to satin Shweta Kapoors saris tell us you can walk the talk with this slithering drape, as she adds an 80s touch to it, this season. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Brand by Hand
Giving leather longevity through contemporary design, Sonal Varma of Rara Avis, offers versatile shapes for a global traveller. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
The last resort
Offering sustainable fabrics, swimwear with reversible styles and interesting prints, Reby Kumar of Guapa is embarking on, making dressing for your next holiday under the palms, super comfortable. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Engineered embroidery
From embroidery created out of scrap, to making even the motifs move along as you wear the ensemble Anurag Gupta woos the unusual. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Lost Tribes
Tribal imagery comes alive in Aseem Kapoors free size, super comfy offerings for women who choose practicality over transient shine. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Study of contrasts
Anju Modi is paying homage to white weddings, with signature crafts and a wish to move away from conventional palettes. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Bead Seeds
From launching various verticals to the mothership brand Geisha Designs, Paras and Shalini this year elevate embellishment with corsetry and serenade the extended family with their love for Victorian needle work and beads. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Revisiting Memories
15 years and making a mark with classics from the stable, Pankaj and Nidhi combine their strengths from dori work to quilting, creating affable tuxedo jackets and trumpet skirts. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Right Strokes
Swimwear mavericks, and now ski wear experts, Shivan and Narresh offer us a glimpse of Finland through their specially crafted prints combined with hand painting. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Spinning Luxury
Handspun is Himanshu Shanis leitmotif this LFW, as he celebrates innately Indian techniques and processes from Bandhej to Ajrak and natural indigo dyeing making a play for incorporating kala cotton in Gen Z style lexicon By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Motorcycle Diaries
Riding, and utility make a play in Abhishek Paatnis line that takes us back to the simple joys of life, finding peace through biking and urging us to slow down, choosing the wild road less travelled up the mountains. By Asmita Aggarwal You would imagine an MBA and engineer to ...
Sari Stories
The tuxedo blouse, wide lapels, geometric shapes, hints of metallic glitter, ode to charcoals, the boy from Mubarikpur Sanjay Garg of Raw Mango, told us the sari is as cool as a floor sweeping, Paris-returned gown. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
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Tiger Tales
Couturier Rahul Mishra is a conversation starter, a dialogue initiator thats why couture for him is about a narrative that transcends the discussion about silhouettes, shapes or forms. ICW 2023 was an ode to sequins, flowers and the king of the jungle! By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Khadi Sutra
His take on the South Indian Mundu with the woven border kara, pleasing monochromes, delectable stripes, and restrained shine, just like the couturier Rajesh Pratap Singh was befitting at his first outing, redefining luxury at ICW 2023. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
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Pearls of Wisdom
Dolly J uses the radiance of pearls to add glow to her army of gowns, as couture transcends from glitter to subtle. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
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Aroma of Roses
Isha J debuts with a line with the perfect showstopper the curvaceous Vani Kapoor, displaying a collection that combined Chikankari with lace, and of course sinful washboard abs. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
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Layered Intrusions
Serenading layering, separates and fluidity the market-savvy brothers Shantnu and Nikhil, complete 24 years with almost 16 stores domestically. At ICW they managed to add dollops of deliciousness with Aditya Roy Kapur and the pint sized beauty Sara Ali Khan. But the coup was Nikhil Mehras 16-year-old son Vivhan, making his ...
Wizards of Time
From Fibonacci to Equinox, the admiration for Maths and its lasting solutions have fascinated the duo, who have been on this creative journey together for 25 years, and counting. ICW 2023 was about romancing 3D embroideries and just like their themes, the precision it echoes, is mirrored in cuts. By ...
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Elegance in motion
Even though nothing is for Eternity, in this ephemeral human world, except change, whether it is love or integrity, Tarun Tahiliani proves, it can be, with an unmatched ode to elegance, in his distinct style, urging us to love and relove at ICW 2023. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
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The World Within
Anamikas 25 year journey has been one of revelation and grandeur, this year too, she brings alive the magic of zardosi and pearls her two constant companions, expressions of love, with some unadulterated charm added by the lithe Athiya Shetty. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Past Is Now
The past always finds an embellished way to catch up with the present in J J Valayas offerings which came drizzling with Sufi music by a live band headed by Sahil Vasudeva and of course some embroidered swans frolicking on midnight blue lehengas. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Layering Thoughts
Vedas to swishing sculpted gowns, Gaurav Gupta can make the twain meet, just like his showstopper Jahanvi K., whos hybrid heritage makes a winning statement. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Floriography
Varun Bahl believes couture must appeal to a woman who is aware, responsible, and wants to be original in thought and choice of occasion clothing. Though his love for flowers remains constant, just like his passion for monochromes. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Wooed by Nostalgia
Couture reflects changing cultural norms, Ritu Kumar, and son Amrish, believe fine craftsmanship and customisation makes this genre a powerhouse. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Royal Hues
From the Taj Mahal, Shekhawati, Qutab Minar to the banks of the river Sabarmati and the historic Port Jail in Goa, the FDCI has effortlessly paid a tribute to traditional techniques, by synchronizing them with presentations at unforgettable heritage sites. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
Cultural Values
From mixing denim with silk, motif manipulation to paying homage to pure metallic yarns, eight designers changed the design vocabulary of Made in Benaras at the FDCI curated show at Surajkund Mela. By Asmita Aggarwal ...
North Star
Strapline: She is a P(h)D from JNU and has written a book High heels and Rainbow Hijaab, to be published at the South Asian department of Hamburg University. This political science professor is a new face for the runway! Meet the brightest on the block---Nancy Pathak By Asmita Aggarwal Tell us where ...
The Last Jedi
Dealing with a tragic loss to being a breadwinner Gunjan, is a force to reckon with. By Asmita Aggarwal She lost her father at 13, and had to move cities, Delhi to Jaipur, being the only child, she also had to quickly become the breadwinner, so Gunjan Hada Rajput, who is completing her graduation, ...
Ola! from Brazil
13 to 25, life has been a whirlwind for Mayara, a Brazilian model, who has been an avid world traveller By Asmita Aggarwal Coming from Brazils most prosperous financial centre Sao Paulo, for Mayara Fonseca modelling is the only things she ever knew. Since the age of 13, when she ...
The Other Eden
From a village where girls arent educated to making it to the spotlight, Nisha Yadav is a story waiting to be told. By Asmita Aggarwal No one would have even heard of Shuklawas, Rajasthan, a tiny hamlet tucked away unlike its more popular magnificent havelis, but maybe one-day people might associate it ...
Bank on her
A former banker armed with an engineering degree and an MBA, Pavitra admits fashions charms were irresistible By Asmita Aggarwal It doesnt matter if you have studied engineering and topped in it or also equipped yourself with an MBA degree to make sure your job prospects are high if you ...
Size matters
Zenia Boga, is a model of many talents, from styling to acting, glamour makes her heart sing By Asmita Aggarwal At six feet one inch Zenia Yazad Boga, literally and almost metaphorically looks down on the rest of the world! But this is actually part of a genetic lottery that ...
Wheels of Fortune
For Sneha Ghosh, 27, who found meaning in life through yoga talks about why the body and mind need to be in tune By Asmita Aggarwal Her tryst with glamour came when she was selected for the Femina Ms India Eastern round, but due to strict attendance in St Xaviers ...
Dusty Town, Big Dreams
Modelling is witnessing a chrysalis of sorts with small-town girls becoming coveted faces on the catwalk. One such tale is of Pragya Bais, a lawyer... By Asmita Aggarwal She grew up in a small town---Singrauli, in Madhya Pradesh, in a joint family, she had five siblings and her dad used ...
Weaving Conversions
How to make a neoprene-loving generation admire and appreciate the beauty and purity of handspun is the challenge the handloom industry faces today. Making it cool seems to be the answer both metaphorically and literally! ...
Wizards of Design
Live piano, six style gurus, fame, awards and a whole lot of mingling made the first historic Couture Hall of Fame awards, by FDCI, a runaway success ...
The Admirals Son
Weightless is the new language of instruction, as couture swings in the direction of opulence minus cult musings, power posing, flurry of feathers or inventive iterations, just mixing craftsmanship with a Tarun Tahiliani brand of realism ...