The past always finds an embellished way to catch up with the present in J J Valayas offerings which came drizzling with Sufi music by a live band headed by Sahil Vasudeva and of course some embroidered swans frolicking on midnight blue lehengas.
By Asmita Aggarwal
Nomad, spice route, silk route, regal may be the many action words that surround J J Valaya. But on a rainy evening, at his ICW 2023 show, it started as an all-black night with just gold thread work shining on structured jackets, for the man who always manages to keep it larger-than-life.
His glittering chevrons, admiration for longer silhouettes, as if announcing everything looks good in black, just like the legendary Japanese great Yamamoto, as it exudes undeniable charm and a certain nonchalance. And if you only looked a little closer, you could see swans dancing on midnight blue lehengas, and peacocks giving them company in thread work, in his JJV Kapurthala showcase.
His glittering chevrons, admiration for longer silhouettes, as if announcing everything looks good in black, just like the legendary Japanese great Yamamoto, as it exudes undeniable charm and a certain nonchalance. And if you only looked a little closer, you could see swans dancing on midnight blue lehengas, and peacocks giving them company in thread work, in his JJV Kapurthala showcase.
While Valaya made sure his muse, the erstwhile opulent king of Kapurthala, his vivid traveloguesin the 20s, Maharaja Jagjit Singh rested peacefully, as he loved grandeur and diamonds as much as Cartier who often pleased him with sparkling wonders.
The chevron safas printed to perfection, belted saris, super roomy shararas, high-waisted and accompanied by capes, gave us as much joy as his salmon pinks lehengas with gotta-patti. There are also sequences in all white tone-on-tone jackets, floor sweeping, maybe an ode to Art Deco or regality, the ball is up in the air on this one!
But undoubtedly, Valaya knows he has the right audience after all the man who began the luxury game Tikka Shatrujit Singh, who got Louis Vuitton to the country in the early 90s when brands could only be brought globally, sat on the front row only to applaud for his fellow believer! Ceremonial and bringing in the happiness that surrounds weddings, turmeric-hued pieces came in the traditional format minus any dilution.
The most exclusive event of the fashion calendar in India, the India Couture Week, 2023 is a fascinating experience, many disciplines into one cohesive experience in those 20-30 minutes– you are doing sets, age-old legacy, crafts, music, a show needs to be seen to be enjoyed. The collection boasts of signature Valaya, with a twist, as a couturier, the big Indian wedding is the focus, says Valaya.
Valaya commercialises the vision, as an artist cannot survive in solitude, the challenge is about balance, if you can capitalise on something creatively, you have got a brand that will outlive you and be a statement maker. The entire game is a juggle between creativity and sales, he adds.
Lehenga and sherwani, its sibling saris or shararas, bandhgalas, Nehru jackets, sell well, and cocktail gowns have crept in. Modern women are changing, it is like that moment of time way back in 1995, she the woman of now started this chrysalis by declaring financial independence. Changemakers are adapting to newness as that is mandatory, if a brand does not evolve, it is over, the game is observation and reinterpretation. A good brand will never get rid of its roots or core DNA, but keep adapting and evolving and make it now, he adds.
Creative journey is all about challenges and anyone who cannot handle these curveballs, should not get into any creative commitment. There is always a tussle between commerce and creativity, saleability matters, and the pressure of doing something fresh every season is immense. Every six months designers are put to test and there is one magical moment of 20 minutes, which showcases months of hard work. Ovation at the end of it, is the high of it, also fashion is one of those professions where you cannot rest on your laurels, he concludes.