
Separates are new cool at LFW
Payal Jain gives us nifty wearable options, Tarun dresses the groom’s extended family in dhotis-pearls, while Pankaj and Nidhi serenade mocha, and Samant Chauhan flirts with sci-fi bejewelled shoulders. By Asmita Aggarwal Shouldn’t fashion be wearable, easy, and non-fussy? If you are a believer of separates, Payal Jain has just ...

Pondicherry, French, silk velvet printing
Craft-soaked Bandhini to experiments with Chikankari, Naushad Ali adds a European influence to Indian textiles serenading a global buyer. By Asmita Aggarwal His father is a textile merchant, based in Pondicherry, so Naushad Ali grew up surrounded by fabrics from Bengal to Orissa, he would sit on the bundle and ...

Who needs a showstopper? asks Ankur
Converting waste into textural garments with a strong sense of identity, Ankur Verma of Til tells us, 3 months to craft one cape, several artisans create magic with just the power of discarded fabrics. By Asmita Aggarwal If experience counts for anything in life, Ankur Verma of Til would be ...

Then and now with Ashish Soni
From trying to market the crisp, white tailored shirt in the 90s, to working with revered stylists like Deep Kailey, to now an entire collection with just black, Ashish is going back to his roots. By Asmita Aggarwal It was the year 2000, when India Fashion Week began at the ...

Life comes a ‘Crcle’
From Veganwool to banana leather, CDC finalist Varshne B is crafting a unique trek to not “save the planet” but give cool alternatives and watch out for her stainless steel bags. By Asmita Aggarwal Varshne B founded Crcle in 2024, born and raised in Chennai, after studying fashion design from NIFT, Chennai, ...

From Fatehpur to Europe: Radhesh
Imagine a shawl as soft as silk, but made from butchery waste, creating both livelihood for tribal women and circularity. From winning patents for his technology, to making wood free paper, Radhesh is a maverick hoping to create a new landscape of style, as a CDC finalist. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Meet next supermodels –Sky and Ava
Nainika and Gauri’s daughters, give the catwalk some serious twirls, while Satya Paul announces Bollywood dreamboat Aditi Rao Hydari as their creative collaborator. By Asmita Aggarwal What happens when you have a live DJ, some moon, stars, and sun, mingling with the philosophy of “Papa don’t preach”. Well Shubhika knows ...

Shibori, leheriya gets “imperfect”
PR exercise is not always fruitful, as brands are not built on celeb dressing, but unique ideology, says Amit Hansraj of Inca. By Asmita Aggarwal “If Sonam Kapoor wears your label doesn’t mean you have arrived”, his point of view is refreshing, maybe because after 20 years in the business ...

Let’s welcome Akaaro pink!
Valentino could have done forgettable pinks, but what Gaurav Jai Gupta has introduced in craft brings with it lightness, subtlety, and grace as Jamdanis take centrestage. By Asmita Aggarwal If you thought pink is only for Valentino, think again as Gaurav Jai Gupta of Akaaro has introduced his stunning version ...

Sari dress anyone?
The opening show of the LFW X FDCI by Anavila Mishra and Gaurav Jai Gupta along with in house designers from The Kunj displayed the prowess of the sari, which is now not restricted by pleats and palla but has found a new disposition—jackets, Obi belts and knots. By Asmita ...

After 25 years “waste is gold”
As fashion celebrates its silver jubilee, what is clear now is ---sustainability is the only way to go forward, and designers have already taken the lead! By Asmitaa Aggarwal It was a reunion of sorts, designers came in droves, some who had not been seen for over 20 years---Anshu Arora ...

I have a child-like curiosity: Rahul Mishra
In a freewheeling chat, Rahul Mishra talks about his deep connection with spirituality, Trikaldarshi Brahma, his Paris Couture Week ‘Cityscape’ and ‘Crow’ ensembles, why Bandhani is important as we revisit the present while keeping the "rear-view" mirrors open to pay homage to the past. By Asmitaa Aggarwal He did create ...

Butterfly Effect by Somya
Repair and reuse are Somya Goyal’s mantras, as she works with Bemberg to tackle global warming, intermingling with fabrics created out of waste, converted into cords, in her line “Pivot”. By Asmitaa Aggarwal Her father has been running a successful label Rich Look for the last 30 years in Delhi, ...

Luck by Design
Somaiya Kala Vidya, is creating a space for artisans from Gujarat working with Bandhani, Ajrakh, block printing to applique, equipping them with skills that combine—marketability with design prowess-craft is just not art. By Asmita Aggarwal You would never expect a chemical engineer from the acclaimed NIT, Trichy to be working ...

Amit Aggarwal launches luxe pret
Luxury pret is the new game in India, hoping to ease out international brands from the space, Amit Aggarwal is the early entrant! By Asmitaa Aggarwal There is a rise of luxury pret in fashion—there are many who are indulging in it, is it due to the influx of labels ...

“Fashion is a social differentiator”
Gaurav Jagtiani’s Line Tribe gives you a mix of streetwear with Ikkats in the flavour of the decade—androgyny. By Asmitaa Aggarwal He has a label that he shut down in 2014 by the name Gaurav and Ritika, but the boy who studied from Wigan and Leigh college, knew there is ...

Unshackling traditionalism
Shantanu Mehra talks about building a robust bridge to luxury line with sharp tailoring, smart layering and military detailing in S & N. By Asmitaa Aggarwal Shantanu Mehra is two years older than Nikhil, but what is clear in their business is how they manage it—roles are clearly divided. The ...

Bengali Babus
18 century “babu” culture of Bengal dandies gets a fashionable makeover by Abhishek Roy through his smooth velvets and zardozi. By Asmitaa Aggarwal What happens when you grow up in a fulfilling environment away from the craziness of city life in Santiniketan? Well, you have an alternate world view just ...

Boy from Biskohar
Anurag Gupta’s 3D, jacquard knits and intense screen prints tell us you can do a lot with menswear sans sequins. By Asmitaa Aggarwal Imagine growing up in a village, Biskohar, (Itwa) not so far from Ayodhya, the city of Lord Ram, in a home where forget conversations about fashion, there ...

Khadi adopts new ‘vibe’
Hoping to wean away GenZ from fast fashion, Co-Ek has launched khadi resort wear-think wrap skirts and summer dresses. By Asmitaa Aggarwal It is always invigorating to observe seismic changes in the way Khadi has been perceived and elevated--- leaving its traditional starchiness, adopting a modern nomenclature. This year Co-Ek ...

Nikki’s Khadi Resort wear
After 42 years in fashion, perfecting block printing, Nikki Mahajan pays tribute to khadi not through predictable kurtas, but dresses with baroque elements and French prints. By Asmitaa Aggarwal She began almost 42 years ago, in the 80s when she was newly married, at 20, studying in Lady Shri Ram ...

No white collar, it’s silver for Anamika
After almost 25 years, Anamika Khanna is hoping women in lucrative careers want something that is not just suits and blazers --maybe a silver tie, suspenders, daddy briefcase and some pearl encrusted denims from AK-OK! By Asmita Aggarwal India is all over the world, and it isn’t just “in India”, ...

Clothes with feelings
From serenading poets to artists, Rina Singh’s Eka is a case study of craft upliftment. By Asmita Aggarwal If clothes could have feelings Eka would be a right fit! Rina Singh, who built a brand, brick by brick, over 13 years believes it took years of developing product knowledge and ...

In Fine Print
From Picasso, to Banksy and Mr Brainwash, Salita Nanda reinterprets art pieces through her unique rendering of hand illustrated prints in satiny draped dresses. By Asmita Aggarwal Born and raised in London, Salita Nanda studied at the London College of Fashion, University of the Arts, and then further honed her skills at ...

“Embroidery is our DNA,” says Ashdeen
Dutch artist Patrick Bergsma and his broken ceramic pottery where bonsai grows is where Ashdeen found his stimuli, though his simple shapes complement the complex needlework techniques he uses to offer modern jackets. By Asmita Aggarwal Ashdeen Z. Lilaowala is a trained textile designer from the National Institute of ...

Builder’s daughter Monisha Jaising constructs ‘bling’
35 years in style business, the doyen believes, her biggest contribution has been keeping alive classic Indian ethos. By Asmita Aggarwal Her father was one of the biggest builders in Mumbai, specially the Bandra area, though he taught at the London School of Economics for many years too. Narain Bhojwani ...

80% feeling, 20% aesthetic sells a garment: Dhruv Kapoor
Dhruv Kapoor brings his PSS (print, surface and silhouette) tastes to the Denim Edit by FDCI, at LFW as he handpaints, laminates, embroiders the versatile fabric. By Asmita Aggarwal He is a regular at Milan Fashion Week, and his 10-year-old brand, was nominated earlier for the International Woolmark Prize, but ...

Blue blooded fit by Countrymade
Every setback in life kind of teaches us, for Sushant it was his brother’s sudden demise, he used the pain to pay homage to his memory keeping it alive each year. At the FDCI Denim Edit he gives the resilience of denim an interesting twist with hand painted leather. By ...

“I wanted to dress like my father,” Pranav Mishra
Huemn may be his alter ego, but the designer behind it calls himself a storyteller, who loves the possibilities of what denim can do; this season, he takes on a new journey by recycling creating invigorating landscapes in his anti-fit everything. By Asmita Aggarwal There is a huge conundrum between ...

Luck doesn’t help, focus does: Payal
From her backless cholis to Aishwarya Rai wearing her award-winning Anarkali, Payal Singhal in 25 years of business has been consistent leaving theatrics to greenhorns, adopting practicality for survival. By Asmita Aggarwal Payal Singhal completes 25 years in the business of fashion, and if there is one designer who truly ...

“Armani taught me to be me,” says Ankur of Til
Whether it was working with Armani or Bottega Veneta, even Sabyasachi, Ankur believes good design is instinctive, that’s why his latest line for LFWX FDCI is experimental, comfortable and inclusive. By Asmita Aggarwal He lost his grandmother, whom he was closest to in the family during Covid, she would always ...

A & T celebrate inconsistencies
Discarded cassette tapes, toffee wrappers, bin bags are now RTW and make for new-age embellishment, as the trio Thakore, Abraham and Nigli tell us “What we buy and how we buy” is of brevity at their LFWXFDCI show. By Asmita Aggarwal Shefali Shah is a thinking actress, chooses her roles, ...

Greenwashing is rampant in fashion: Drishti
Drishti Modi and Rashmick Bose of Lafaani, CDC runner ups, bring circularity through unrestricted shapes, kala cotton and their love for repurposing. By Asmita Aggarwal She is a big movie buff, so the brand name is a result of binge-watching cinema, although alternate, thus Lafaani, was picked from the dialogue ...

Bill Clinton told us to be at MOMA: Gautam Malik
Making bags out of discarded seat belts, the JNU kid, who grew up with a father who taught quantum physics is today building a sustainable community one gilet at a time with his brand Jaggery. If Apple can sell electronics, why can't jaggery sell bags? By Asmita Aggarwal Former US President ...

Batik has unique monotones: Madhumita
Working with Batik master craftsman Shakil Khatri for the last ten years in Gujarat, to revive the 1000-year-old tradition using vegetable dyes, Madhumita Nath of Ek Katha hopes to serenade a young audience with reimagined crafts. By Asmita Aggarwal She studied textiles at NIFT Mumbai and JJ School of Art, ...

CDC winner’s clothes with a conscience
Life took a turn for the better from seeing his grandfather’s dyeing unit polluting, to now only dealing with second hand garments, reconstructing them into new shapes, Ritwik Khanna, 25, of Rkive City is a force to reckon with. By Asmita Aggarwal This generation is something else---they really know what ...

Ujjawal’s 10th with homage to “self”
Antar-Agni as the name suggests is a journey within—thus his unisex label is a lot more than just layering, drapes and lapels, it is an exploration of the meaning of luxury, and why its connotations change to cater to an individualistic mind. By Asmita Aggarwal Some things in life are ...

Arundhati Roy, Mira Nair, Kiran Rao and me share common artistic goals: Aneeth Arora
From little hearts floating on smocked dresses, Hello Kitty nostalgia, to intensive embroidery details, as well as design interventions on textiles, Aneeth Arora celebrates 15 years of Pero with a FDCI show at LFW. It has been a long road from Udaipur to creating a million-dollar business for this craft ...

The War Within
Bomb blasts, barren land, soldier writings on walls and stones, how war destroys the fabric of mankind and its futility has been beautifully mirrored through deft stitches by Sushant Abrols label Countrymade. By Asmita Aggarwal From writing poetry, to working with 8-10 needlework techniques, using imagery of his late Air ...

Moon Power
Paying homage to the moon landing and Indias homegrown space programme Pearl Academy students delve into the future to showcase how it could be the next vacation destination through metallics, anti-gravity hair and hybrid ensembles. By Asmita Aggarwal The Chandrayaan-3 mission, was a homegrown one, as the country reached the lunar south polar region, India ...

Sari Stories
From jersey to satin Shweta Kapoors saris tell us you can walk the talk with this slithering drape, as she adds an 80s touch to it, this season. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Brand by Hand
Giving leather longevity through contemporary design, Sonal Varma of Rara Avis, offers versatile shapes for a global traveller. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

The last resort
Offering sustainable fabrics, swimwear with reversible styles and interesting prints, Reby Kumar of Guapa is embarking on, making dressing for your next holiday under the palms, super comfortable. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Engineered embroidery
From embroidery created out of scrap, to making even the motifs move along as you wear the ensemble Anurag Gupta woos the unusual. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Lost Tribes
Tribal imagery comes alive in Aseem Kapoors free size, super comfy offerings for women who choose practicality over transient shine. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Study of contrasts
Anju Modi is paying homage to white weddings, with signature crafts and a wish to move away from conventional palettes. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Bead Seeds
From launching various verticals to the mothership brand Geisha Designs, Paras and Shalini this year elevate embellishment with corsetry and serenade the extended family with their love for Victorian needle work and beads. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Revisiting Memories
15 years and making a mark with classics from the stable, Pankaj and Nidhi combine their strengths from dori work to quilting, creating affable tuxedo jackets and trumpet skirts. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Right Strokes
Swimwear mavericks, and now ski wear experts, Shivan and Narresh offer us a glimpse of Finland through their specially crafted prints combined with hand painting. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Spinning Luxury
Handspun is Himanshu Shanis leitmotif this LFW, as he celebrates innately Indian techniques and processes from Bandhej to Ajrak and natural indigo dyeing making a play for incorporating kala cotton in Gen Z style lexicon By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Social Intelligence
Anjali Mehta Patel, a first timer in Delhi is hoping to wow buyers with her au naturale offerings constructed with Bemberg, replete with India stories done in heady prints. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Crafting a legacy
Working with renowned weaver Prasanta Basak to offer a new language of Indian clothing, Swatti Kapoor is hoping to elevate the humble salwar-kameez, with innovative substitutes in natural fabrics. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Simple Thinking
Ka-Sha completes ten years in fashion, she infuses the line with imagery of emotions replicated through the prism of relaxed clothing, and monochromes as bead work becomes a show stealer. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Retro Revival
Think disco, bell bottoms, Manhattans Studio 54 and Ashish Sonis play with the oversized, androgynous look -strong shoulders and suiting materials as his forte tailoring, takes centerstage. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Motorcycle Diaries
Riding, and utility make a play in Abhishek Paatnis line that takes us back to the simple joys of life, finding peace through biking and urging us to slow down, choosing the wild road less travelled up the mountains. By Asmita Aggarwal You would imagine an MBA and engineer to ...

Sari Stories
The tuxedo blouse, wide lapels, geometric shapes, hints of metallic glitter, ode to charcoals, the boy from Mubarikpur Sanjay Garg of Raw Mango, told us the sari is as cool as a floor sweeping, Paris-returned gown. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Changing hues of Saris
Bagru has been reimagined by Anavila this season, as she offers the six-yard drape with the aim of restarting the conversation around its versatility. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

War and Peace
Sushant Abrols Countrymade captures the images of war through bleeding checks and draining camouflage prints that intermingle with knits, reminding you of the warmth of home. By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Tomorrow never dies
Pearl Academy showcase touches a sensitive chord with students ode to isolation; Pawan Sachdeva manages a coup getting MP Raghav Chadha on the runway. And if you want some serious shine, the Peacocks will make you dance! By Asmita Aggarwal ...

Total Immersion
Crystal Cord technique, water-resistant and fireproof fabrics, to skeinwork and launching a new logo, Shivan Bhatiya, Head Designer & Narresh Kukreja, Creative Director, SVNH, tell us why being courageous is the only way to survive in fashion. By Asmita Aggarwal ...