German Hussars inspire Pankaj and Nidhi as they beautifully intermix vintage military with evening wear

By Asmita Aggarwal

As they complete 10 long years in the business of fashion, Pankaj and Nidhi will celebrate by opening a store in Kolkata, next month, a fourth addition to their three existing ones (Mumbai, Bangalore and Delhi). Just back from the Paris Fashion Week, where they took a stall at the West End Hotel, the duo won over the international audience with their craft and artwork. They admit they began ‘late’ in fashion, after they worked with top designers for almost ten years (Pankaj with Rohit Bal), they say that it was a sensible move, as it kept their vision and look in place.

“We got our infrastructure and back end in order and it was only three years after we had launched our label we decided to do a show for the first time. I see a lot of kids who are just out of fashion college and have launched their label, which can’t keep up with market forces and vanish without a trace. So sometimes, being pragmatically slow is a virtue as it brought us the right kind of attention,” he smiles.

Showing at the AIFW AW’16, the husband-wife team is inspired by a book that Pankaj had pulled out of his burgeoning bookshelf, which was an illustrated history of vintage uniforms. As a child, coming from an Army background, Pankaj loved commando gear, comics and war movies, but there was also an emotional connect. “My dad was in the Army, so watching him dress in uniform everyday brings back some fond memories. We have tried to capture German Hussars, in their ceremonial uniforms, from the period ranging 1870 to the early 19th century,” he adds.

The subtle nuances have been replicated in spirit through the badges of honour, appellate, medals, brass buttons which have been added as decorations and some through embroidery.

The usage of Merino wool after being part of the Woolmark Prize race left them with a craft that helped them skilfully execute it in structured garments. The regimental stripes created out of ribbons, as well as contrast collars and their signature quilting (using neoprene for the first time) has added a third dimension to the line.

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“We also researched camouflage, but we have not done it in the typical manner rather we took the arduous route and opted for appliqué in a way that it combines military elements in an evening wear look in olives, navy and mustards,” he adds.

Each season the inspirations have been varied, for Pankaj and Nidhi, whether it is Poland, Spanish Matadors to Japan or House of Cards complete with vintage laces. “We need a thematic interpretation which drives us, it has been an essential part of our journey,” he concludes.

Watch Pankaj & Nidhi at #AIFWAW16