The boy from Gorakhpur is set to add fieriness to a line that is subdued with beiges, as Antar Agni charts a path to success with Ujjawal Dubeys surreal vision.
By Asmita Aggarwal
Gorakhpur-born Ujjawal Dubey being a Science student was more interested in algorithms and quantum physics, than the blinding lights of fashion, maybe thats why you see a lot of geometry in Antar Agni, his eponymous label.
In love with shapes and spaces, he aspired to be an architect, but couldnt make it, so he applied to NIFT and studied textile design from Kolkata. Coming from a technical background, I loved how things took shape, my interest was always product design and furniture, but textile design changed my perception about life and in fact, helped me a lot, he smiles.
At 28, Ujjawal, views life from the prism of human emotions, his label is all about exploring the self, its many layers and thats why you will observe that the fabrics are left in their natural state, with no surface ornamentation used of any kind. I want the fabrics to speak, and therefore want no adulteration, the idea remains to keep it simple and straight-forward, above all subtle, he explains.
With a doctor mom and a businessman father, Ujjawal, grew up middle-class and that humility reflects in his menswear label, even though he admits that it can be a bit tricky. If you see the catwalk, out of 25 models, only five will be men, so that kind of limits us. But I look at clothes only through the wearability factor. When I started I only wanted to dress myself, and I am a sober guy, he laughs.
Seeing the many layers in menswear and experimenting with drapes, cuts, slits and silhouettes, Ujjawals almost two-year-old label is in tune with Indian aesthetics. The drama for me in the ensembles does not shine through the sparkle of sequins, rather the drape which is of primary importance, he adds.
Ujjawal will floor you with his simplicity and thought process which is truly ingenious as he admits that he was never lured by the vivacity garments. I never thought they could ever add any meaning to anyones life. I was meandering through life, and dabbled in sportswear, lounge wear and graphics, while working for Shantanu & Nikhil for almost three years, till I really narrowed down to what I wanted to do, he smiles.
Following the ideology, be consistent and doors will open, he liked easy, relaxed clothing. The ambiguity at the point in my life when I was confused, took me towards books and besides Haruki Murakami, I read the scriptures. Thats why the name Antar Agni or the fire within, he confesses.
Believing that the natural state is the best one to be in, Ujjawal, for the last four seasons has been using masculine shades, so this time, it is an ode to red. It is more like a vent out for him, also a break from the monotony of neutral hues. Red symbolises the little madness we all carry within ourselves and it has been the simulator for this line. But I have tried to bring about a balance of fieriness with sobriety with the addition of beiges, navy blues and blacks, he adds.
With the play on the necklines, from where Ujjawal usually starts as he never sketches like most designers, he admits that it is his bindu or starting point. The hero for me are my fabrics, so this time, Ive used khadi twill (in a heavier weight) to combine both masculine and feminine elements, he adds.
Calling necklines a place of pride, Ujjawals label works towards individuality and he confesses that he is neither a fashion nor trends watcher, rather he believes in the prowess of style. I like to cover up more and show less even in menswear. So part of the ankle, wrist, arm, below the elbow breaks the humdrum and keeps the mystery alive, he says. The only regret Ujjawal has is that he couldnt be sportsperson, though he is a runner and for a long time played tennis.
He ends on a high note by adding, I want to create a desirable brand, not necessarily a fashionable one, he concludes.
Click here to watch Antar Agni by #UjjawalDubey at #MenswearShow #AIFWAW16