All hands are on deck at Eros Hotel on day two of fittings, as LMIFW is just around the corner. Whether it is Samant Chauhans vision of the future in white, or Diksha Khannas homage to the Middle East, eclectic concepts emerge in full force. A glimpse into what to expect from leading designers at Lotus Makeup India Fashion Week autumn-winter 2019 showcase;
Woven Comic (Nitin Bal Chauhan)
Nitin Bal Chauhans collection romances with opposites. Plenty contradictions are showcased through Chauhans use of a black and white colour language and drooping liquid forms on structural pantsuits.
The designer uses intricate threadwork to create the illusion of hand drawings, some abstract, resembling galaxies, and others are elaborate caricatures, all of which come together on a monochrome canvas. This collection is Chauhans very own graphic novel, which utilizes threadwork, metallic detailing and pleats to tell a surreal tale.
PC: Diya Mathur
Desert Storm (Diksha Khanna)
Embodying the spirit of the mystical souks and deserts of Oman is Diksha Khannas collection, an amalgamation of unexpected fabric combinations and manipulations. Khanna uses crochet to patch together pieces of denim and has developed an iridescent khadi denim fabric that is used to create evening dresses, athleisure wear, and sometimes even as a dash of detail on a pair of pants.
White knit jackets with metallic coin details are paired with sheer white shirts and coral pantsuits are accessorized with a matching belt and quilted detail to create tone on tone ensembles.
PC: Diya Mathur
Marine Scene (Pallavi Singh)
Languid fabrics are washed with colours from the sea, and sprinkled on with details that take their inspiration from aquatic creatures.
From its colour scheme that ranges from the calming cerulean blue to an earthy sap green, to its wishy-washy textures and rhythmic motifs, Pallavi Singh brings to life a collection that constitutes of underwater elements. Surface textures resemble the gills of fish created from a clever play of triangular forms and added as detail on the sleeves. A recurring element is the cinched waist, either stitched or created with the use of a belt to taper the silhouette.
PC: Diya Mathur
Iridescent (Amita Gupta)
Amita Gupta puts on a shimmering showcase, in which her denim zari fabric is a recurring leitmotif. Gupta uses a fluid and free flowing fabric, to create structure in the form of intelligent silhouettes.
The intensity of pleating varies, where the bell sleeves see rigorous detail and the skirts witness more easygoing folds.
The presence of lines goes beyond just the silhouettes and into the fabric, which sees stripes bold, thin and some with unequal variation. Layered lapels, duo toned skirts and pinstriped pantsuits are some other details skillfully executed by the designer.
PC: Diya Mathur
A Vision in White
A concept using very little colour and a lot of detailing Samant Chauhans collection is a vision in white. Blossoming on exaggerated silhouettes are floral patterns in shades of spring, balanced by the use of interspersed geometric patterns. Imaginative thinking has led Chauhan to create thinking silhouettes that are both flowing and structured at the same time.
Square necklines on draping shapes and sleek trench coats made from sheer fabrics are a few examples of skillful craftsmanship. While there are colourful options, the magic of this collection lies in the simple layered monotone ensembles which when paid attention to, reveals a branch of white or black embroidery, reflective of Chauhans attention to detail.
PC: Diya Mathur