From learning from Jasper Conran to discovering the power of layering, Kiran Uttam Ghosh calls fashion a tough teacher; in the end it is all about survival
By Asmita Aggarwal
Working with Jasper Conran taught the young Kiran Uttam Ghosh attention to detail and the months she spent assisting him imparted some tough lessons in fashion. You walk in thinking you are Galliano then the cookie crumbles— you realise there is a lot to learn and you are just a small spec in the whole dynamics, she says.
Among the many experiences which stayed with her, she remembers how for almost half a day Jasper and his team spent debating whether to add that two mm gather on the slit of the skirt; thats what made him excel at what he did. Besides walking home alone when there was a bomb threat in UK, finding her away around an alien city and learning to live and work with crazy roommates. Living alone in UK, coming from Kolkata, I learnt survival. Despite being top of my class I rolled fabric, brought lunch for the team, which I wrote in Hindi so that I didnt forget what they ordered; worked hard and in the process also imbibed how Jasper did his beautiful patterns, she says.
Studying political science and economics, Kiran stumbled into fashion where she for the last 15 years has struggled to find a balance between fashions obsession with newness and looking at pursuing classicism. Id rather be relevant than cool, as cool become cold in some years; like Ms India today is gone tomorrow as a new girl will be the focus next year. Also Ive always flown below the fashion radar and Im happy being a back bencher doing what I enjoy the most, she says.
Though there was a time when Kiran said she had, had enough and took a break for two years, making her coming back into the profession so much tougher. My weakness is my love for layers and I just cant seem to get enough of them. Also I hate delegating and I am a control freak so I make my life delightfully difficult, she adds.
Having said that Kiran knows that there will be weaker and stronger lines from her stable, so the woman in her many times wants to give up, but the man in her mind tells her to get up and edit, and get on with it. Women dont want a regular kurta anymore they have had enough of that. They want something that can go from morning to evening and no, thats not possible just with a scarf. So I created something that was sheer, small to pack, doesnt crease and clothes which are diva-esque but dont shout when you walk into a room, she explains.
Against the whole overdoing bit and making things blingy, Kiran loves her reds and gold but likes to manipulate them in such a way that they look detailed rather than trying-too-hard to be stylish. You should be able to wear an outfit many times. An outfit must give you the option to mix and match, I encourage women to innovate by playing with layers. I feel outfits should be sold with a dressing card so that the buyer knows how she can wear them effectively, she says.
Paying a tribute to the humble paisley which has been a part of her repertoire for a decade, Kirans winter will have pleated sheers, metallics and gold, three winning combinations for her. The paisley is traditional so Ive kind of deconstructed it and made it contemporary. To tell you the truth I am a bit crazy about it—I have it in prints, embroidery and fabrics, she laughs.
It is a winter of celebration for Kiran with teals, salmon pinks and ivories intermingling with vivacious wine and red, two of her favourite hues. I like cowls, but it is added near the knee and hem so that you dont bulge up at the tummy or hip; intelligent design can make you look a lot sleeker if you do it well. After all it is just fashion we are doing, we arent saving lives, she concludes.