Anamika Khannas subtle Banarasis and real zari offerings made ICW 2017 a celebration of candour transforming the tempestuous bridal space and infusing it with savoir faire, rather than merely tradition.
By Asmita Aggarwal
It was an ode to Banaras that transcended the diktats of time and tide, as Anamika Khanna opened the tenth anniversary celebrations of the India Couture Week 2017 with an impressive collection of textiles, she has collected and curated in her adventurous journey in the volatile fashion universe for over 20 years.
The self-taught guru from Kolkata, dressed in a buttery mul-mul lehenga barely concealing a waif thin waist, stayed away from the pomp and show of a catwalk show and front row A-list celebrity angst, and chose the path less travelled with an installation at The Kila, Mehrauli. I looked at various aspects of the wedding and did not limit myself to just the bride (cocktail and sangeet) and I have always felt that an exhibition is a more intimate form of connecting, she said.
Maybe thats why you could spot some botta-pattis on her lehengas, but she crossed the Rubicon and added beautiful Banarasi geometric patterns in an offbeat hue like aubergine and created splendour for a bride, who was probably not delighted with the prospect of donning a traditional red and wanted to experience freedom with a colour of her choice, rather than her grandmoms.
Where most designers use zardozi to display their love for couture, Anamika felt it was pearls that make her boat sail. And this has somewhat become her signature, even if you look back at her installation for couture week, in Kolkata, where she had invited a discerning few to see her superlative craftsmanship a few years ago, it was these tiny nothings that added sizzle to angarakhas and capes.
This year too, there was antique Badla work as well as Khada duppattas that revved up the space that did not sparkle with shiny chandeliers for decoration, but had interesting dried leaves strung with lemons or rice used as a base for mannequins along with betel nuts that showed an auspicious occasion, in this case a vow for forever for two loving hearts.
The lehengas came with big bows in buttery hues and she combined various techniques on one piece—lace, chikankari to feathery tassels that showed her mastery over labour intensive crafts where the fabric only plays hide and seek and the rest is sheathed in armour like embroidery. There were dhotis and capes, two of her favourites, and there was also flaming reds, but these rubbed shoulders with olives and mustardy yellows as well as salmon pinks as little, embroidered birds floated merrily on her silk lehengas.
I wanted to offer pieces that remain with you always; I still have my maternal grandmoms lehenga. There is a timelessness attached to it which a new piece will never have—a trove of memories and emotions, she explains.
However, in the mecca of lehengas very few took a closer look at the spectacular jewellery, and the man behind this unabashed luxury was Yash Aggarwal of the 125-year-old Jaipur-based, famed jewellery house Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas jewellers, whos artworks were a perfect accompaniment to Anamikas homage to real zari.
It took 60 pieces and a year to create for Anamika and undoubtedly, the Extravaganza work where 24 karat gold foil was dexterously placed on a gold base and embellished with Columbian and Burmese rubies and emeralds was a true showstopper (it also costs a cool Rs 50 lakhs). Yash is fifth generation in the family carrying forward the tradition and he brought his line aptly titled Adaa, which pays a tribute to women who exuded limitless elegance—-from Jodha Bai to Razia Sultan and Umrao Jaan. Extravaganza is made with a special tool that has to be broken and remade the next day as it cant withstand the pressure of detailing it undergoes to craft a single piece, says Yash.
Though such treasures were splattered all over, and then there was the Haldili work, specific to Rajasthan, where there was intricate emerald and ruby setting on the same rounded stones (the necklace costs Rs 75 lakhs). Anamikas grandmother was our client and she introduced us. I was always an admirer of her fresh thinking and painstaking techniques employed to elevate the standard of couture, concludes Yash.