Anavila Misra, a first-timer at the AIFW SS 16 reveals why the linen sari has the ideal drape, why the intelligentsia loves her, and her obsession with ajrak and khatwa
By Asmita Aggarwal
You have made saris popular with a modern interpretation…even Dimple Yadav, (UP CM Akhilesh Yadav’s wife) wears your saris…what has been the biggest challenge?
Making the sari contemporary was the biggest challenge, while the brand is rooted in comfort and elegance, designs and textures that appeal to todays woman, it is what I constantly strive for. I think thats where the challenge lies, to keep innovating.
What needs to be done to keep the sari alive?
If designers keep the excitement on and try interpreting the sari for the current times, it will live.
Tell us how the linen sari was invented by you?
I have always been in love with linen, it is the most comfortable fabric. And I thought what if I can make a sari out of the most comfortable fabric. It took some time to get it right because linen may be comfortable, but to get the perfect drape and the right fall is difficult. So I made some alterations to the yarn and loom.
What needs to be done to make raw, tough handlooms drapier and supple?
You have to understand the material, set the loom in a certain way which creates the fabric you are looking for. Also certain washes can help make the fabric supple.
Indigo dyes, block printing…what are the crafts you have loved and adapted?
I like working with craft clusters. Khatwa, Ajrak, Batik are a few techniques I always incorporate in my collections.
You work with clusters in Bhuj and Varanasi…how can we keep weaving techniques alive?
Weaving techniques that have existed for thousands of years have to evolve to deliver a commercially viable and contemporary avatar of the age-old fabric. The techniques that have evolved and are making fabrics/textures that have a market are surviving. Also I think there is a big movement of going back to the basics, back to the roots. And there is a new-found relevance in these techniques, we need to make sure that these remain commercially strong and keep innovating.
Tell us about what SS16 has in store from Anavila?
My spring-summer 16 collection is about balance. Balance in the universe around us. Its a monochromatic palette with handcrafted surface details. The focus is on saris.
How do you add energy and vitality in your collections each season?
Bringing something new, it can be a thought, texture, story or a blend. I travel a lot and what I absorb in my travels reflects in my work.
What have been the architectural influences in your line?
My autumn-winter 2014 collection, titled Mohenjodaro was in parts inspired by the culture and architecture. SS15 capsule for Bungalow 8 was all about indigo.
Tell us five blouse styles which add pizzazz to the sari?
Here are my favourites, you have to see the occasion and your body type to choose the right fit.
– the basic princess cut with comfort fit.
– knitted blouse
-the high neck fitted top.
– boat-neck fitted
– fitted shirt
Will you ever fall prey to the charms of the gown…or do stitched clothing?
It is too early to say anything, I am always open to experimenting so long as it is true to the philosophy of my label.
You have the intelligentsia loving you from Gauri Shinde to Kiran Rao…are these the women you hope to dress?
Yes! I love both Kiran and Gauri, both in their work domain and their style quotient.
Where do you plan to take your label from here?
The label will continue to evolve creating unique expressions, comfortable drapes, textures and weaves that go back to our roots. My label will remain organic and minimal in style.
What is the most beautiful thing about the sari?
The interplay of femininity and strength.
Click here to read reviews from Day 1 at #AIFWSS16 on the Amazon.in Blog