Vineet Bahl ingeniously intermingles Chinese ideology with Indian aesthetics in his first Indian prêt line emboldened with Parsi gara work, while Rabani & Rakha keep it sheer luxe with silver and pearls
By Asmita Aggarwal
A visit to the MET Museum, in New York, this summer, and viewing the exhibition Through the Looking Glass left Vineet Bahl thinking about how he can look at India through the prism of China, combining both the elements in a way that they blend in seamlessly. Seeing how Chinese fashion has influenced Western philosophy through its luxurious gowns and ornate traditions, set the proverbial ball rolling.
His new love affair with Indian prêt kept the basic tenants of the kurta-pajyma, but were given a whole new twist by adding Chinese kimono influences in the tie ups (robe-like) and the Parsi gara work for the ebullient thread work that they use, which was watered down in keeping with prêt prices.
I wanted to update the kurta, which in inherently Indian, and used Chinese blossom colours of peach, blue and purple, without making it literal and taking the easy way by introducing the cheongsam. There had to be an element of surprise so there were gathered effects, he says.
And that sparkle was evident in the silhouettes, which were tunic-based and young. Vineet consciously moved away from Indian, traditional prêt, which is sometimes soaked in so much embroidery that every woman in her garage store is producing it, attempting to give a bling-lovin nation what they desire. He pushed the envelope making his interpretations interesting yet fuss-free. The wrap and wide legged pants were kept white to resemble the pjyama rendered in crisp poplin and the kurtas were elevated with a play of the high low hem, he says.
Day 1 also saw the trio of Rabani and Rakha maintain purity with a dominating all white, line, which saw little butterflies flying on borders of sari borders and sheer tulle gowns. Floating pearls, net and lace kept the mood opulent as their wraps and bodysuits as well as sequinned saris with gold chain fringes revived the free-spirited 70s era.
The tassels were endearing and so were the pleated trousers and the jewelled detailing made it a spring that reverberated with luxury.
Click here to read reviews from Day 1 at #AIFWSS16 on the Amazon.in Blog