Gaurav Gupta is a man who vacillates between the ancient past and the ultra-modernfrom Shunya to Kundalini to now Arunodaya, or dawn, for India Couture Week 2024, he is in awe of scriptures. He has not forgotten the power of AI in the past, when he teamed up with tech to design a gown with IBM. Today, life has taught him to live in the moment!
By Asmita Aggarwal
Think Gyan mudra, with a snake coiling on the ramp, add star daughter Khushi Kapoor and Vedang Raina, and you get a Gaurav Gupta showcasing at the Hyundai India Couture Week 2024.
Bustiers, breast plates, everything was fitted at the top and flowy, including sheer draped dresses with sequinned bodices. He channelled exaggerated shoulders, sleeves and the drip pattern seemed to be a favourite, a bit like molten wax scattered on buff shoulders of mens jackets. Architectural elements in gowns can be clearly seen, as smoke emanated on the stairs leading to the top of the ramp, probably in sync with his serpentine bodices that wrap the body.
Gaurav Gupta knows how to serenade women —in a country of shalwar-kameez he has got them to try his gowns glittering in the daytime. To add to this is his prestigious foray at the Paris Couture Week, three times. He may have dressed Beyonce, Cardi B, Mindy Kaling, but there is a lot he is internally fighting for— damages of Rs 2 crore from copycats, and an accident that left him injured, and his partner in the ICU.
A graduate of Londons Central Saint Martins, Gupta retails from Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Moda Operandi among others, he makes his presence felt globally. A recent accident reinforced lifes unpredictability and deepened my appreciation for the present moment. Embracing uncertainty, I have channeled this into my work, creating designs that reflect lifes fragility and resilience. With the support of my team and external partners, I am recovering and excited to return to creating magic. I am looking forward to India Couture Week to feel that magic once again, he exclaimed.
There is a certain innate sexiness to his offerings, one shoulder is slipping off, a toned thigh exposed daintily, burnt maroons playing with ivories in his line for Paris Haute Couture Week, the Autumn Winter 2024, titled Jyotirgamaya (darkness to light). The way he drapes, pleats, and manipulates fabric, with 3D elements, has won him a devoted clientele. He understands gowns are a play of proportions, and like a master mixer he often gets them right. He launched a line of jewellery, in silver/gold with the sculptural shapes, he is known for, a brand extension of sorts.
He believes, global acclaim brings with it a responsibility to maintain the essence of our cultural heritage, it also necessitates embracing futuristic elements, and noble practices. The industry should focus on creating heirloom pieces that are timeless, and can be handed down through generations, he adds.
He adds, I think bridal wear today is about individual expression and personal stories. When brides come to us, they seek pieces that go beyond traditional definitions, blending cultural heritage, with contemporary aesthetics, he admits. This season, he is ushering in a new era of high-end couture, offering embellished lehengas, saree gowns, and draped sarees that reflect both uniqueness and versatility. Our collection, Arunodaya is crafted to celebrate each brides personal style while ensuring she feels both graceful and empowered, he confessed.
He dressed Bhumi Pednekar in a custom sari in black with three pallus, the saris ran along her curved lines, ensuring the sari remained in a womans wardrobe but with a twist.
This year, age-old techniques meet contemporary elements, from intricate floral embroidery revived with Indian zardozi techniques, to cage embroidery in sequins. We’ve also incorporated futuristic elements — metallic breastplates paired with conventional forms, says Gaurav. The pattern cutting fosters sculptural and fluid appeal. The ethos behind this collection is to celebrate renewal and transformation, embodying the spirit of dawn, he adds.
If you look closely, most of the titles of his collection are based on an aspect of Hindu mythology, Aarohanam, Arunodaya to Jyotirgamaya and Kundalini —he seems to be a reader of scriptures, is in awe. I find immense inspiration in mythology and ancient scriptures. The Vedas, with their profound spiritual and philosophical insights, have always held me in awe. They offer a rich tapestry of stories and concepts that transcend time, providing endless inspiration for my designs. The idea of transformation, inner light, and the journey from darkness to light, as depicted in these texts, deeply resonates with me, and is often reflected in my collections, he explains.
Lizzo, Janelle Monae, Jenna Ortega, Jeremy Pope, and Fan Bing Bing, have been seen attending his Paris Couture Week shows, his first line in the mecca of fashion was named Shunya the Sanskrit word for zero, but he has proved the power of zero. If you place it against any number, it only multiplies, like Gaurav has. He keeps in mind the measured application of crystals, silver metallic embroidery, badla, and zardozi to allow the wearer to take a slice of India with her. This he updates with nose rings, exaggerated shararas, ear cuffs, and a play of light and shadow with ivories and charcoals.
Since he began in 2004, almost 20 years now, he believes, translating a vision into a collection is a journey filled with experimentation, failure, and eventually success. It starts with a concept, in my case often inspired by cosmic, mythology, or personal experiences. This is followed by extensive research and sketching. Fabric selection and testing are crucial, as they bring the designs to life. There are times when the initial ideas don’t work out as planned, requiring us to rethink and adapt. However, each failure is a learning experience that refines the outcome. The process is iterative and collaborative, involving countless hours of craftsmanship and innovation to ensure the final collection resonates with the envisioned theme, he concludes.