Gaurav Gupta’s ode to Indology
Gaurav Gupta is a man who vacillates between the ancient past and the ultra-modernfrom Shunya to Kundalini to now Arunodaya, or dawn, for India Couture Week 2024, he is in awe of scriptures. He has not forgotten the power of AI in the past, when he teamed up with tech to design a gown with IBM. Today, life has taught him to live in the moment! By Asmita Aggarwal Think Gyan mudra, with a snake coiling on the ramp, add star daughter Khushi Kapoor and Vedang Raina, and you get a Gaurav Gupta showcasing at the Hyundai India Couture Week 2024. Bustiers, breast plates, everything was fitted at the top and flowy, including sheer draped dresses with sequinned bodices. He channelled exaggerated shoulders, sleeves and the drip pattern seemed to be a favourite, a bit like molten wax scattered on buff shoulders of mens jackets. Architectural elements in gowns can be clearly seen, as smoke emanated on the stairs leading to the top of the ramp, probably in sync with his serpentine bodices that wrap the body. Gaurav Gupta knows how to serenade women —in a country of shalwar-kameez he has got them to try his gowns glittering in the daytime. To add to this is his prestigious foray at the Paris Couture Week, three times. He may have dressed Beyonce, Cardi B, Mindy Kaling, but there is a lot he is internally fighting for— damages of Rs 2 crore from copycats, and an accident that left him injured, and his partner in the ICU. A graduate of Londons Central Saint Martins, Gupta retails from Neiman Marcus, Bergdorf Goodman, Moda Operandi among others, he makes his presence felt globally. A recent accident reinforced lifes unpredictability and deepened my appreciation for the present moment. Embracing uncertainty, I have channeled this into my work, creating designs that reflect lifes fragility and resilience. With the support of my team and external partners, I am recovering and excited to return to creating magic. I am looking forward to India Couture Week to feel that magic once again, he exclaimed. There is a certain innate sexiness to his offerings, one shoulder is slipping off, a toned thigh exposed daintily, burnt maroons playing with ivories in his line for Paris Haute Couture Week, the Autumn Winter 2024, titled Jyotirgamaya (darkness to light). The way he drapes, pleats, and manipulates fabric, with 3D elements, has won him a devoted clientele. He understands gowns are a play of proportions, and like a master mixer he often gets them right. He launched a line of jewellery, in silver/gold with the sculptural shapes, he is known for, a brand extension of sorts. He believes, global acclaim brings with it a responsibility to maintain the essence of our cultural heritage, it also necessitates embracing futuristic elements, and noble practices. The industry should focus on creating heirloom pieces that are timeless, and can be handed down through generations, he adds. He adds, I think bridal wear today is about individual expression and personal stories. When brides come to us, they seek pieces that go beyond traditional definitions, blending cultural heritage, with contemporary aesthetics, he admits. This season, he is ushering in a new era of high-end couture, offering embellished lehengas, saree gowns, and draped sarees that reflect both uniqueness and versatility. Our collection, Arunodaya is crafted to celebrate each brides personal style while ensuring she feels both graceful and empowered, he confessed. He dressed Bhumi Pednekar in a custom sari in black with three pallus, the saris ran along her curved lines, ensuring the sari remained in a womans wardrobe but with a twist. This year, age-old techniques meet contemporary elements, from intricate floral embroidery revived with Indian zardozi techniques, to cage embroidery in sequins. We’ve also incorporated futuristic elements — metallic breastplates paired with conventional forms, says Gaurav. The pattern cutting fosters sculptural and fluid appeal. The ethos behind this collection is to celebrate renewal and transformation, embodying the spirit of dawn, he adds. If you look closely, most of the titles of his collection are based on an aspect of Hindu mythology, Aarohanam, Arunodaya to Jyotirgamaya and Kundalini —he seems to be a reader of scriptures, is in awe. I find immense inspiration in mythology and ancient scriptures. The Vedas, with their profound spiritual and philosophical insights, have always held me in awe. They offer a rich tapestry of stories and concepts that transcend time, providing endless inspiration for my designs. The idea of transformation, inner light, and the journey from darkness to light, as depicted in these texts, deeply resonates with me, and is often reflected in my collections, he explains. Lizzo, Janelle Monae, Jenna Ortega, Jeremy Pope, and Fan Bing Bing, have been seen attending his Paris Couture Week shows, his first line in the mecca of fashion was named Shunya the Sanskrit word for zero, but he has proved the power of zero. If you place it against any number, it only multiplies, like Gaurav has. He keeps in mind the measured application of crystals, silver metallic embroidery, badla, and zardozi to allow the wearer to take a slice of India with her. This he updates with nose rings, exaggerated shararas, ear cuffs, and a play of light and shadow with ivories and charcoals. Since he began in 2004, almost 20 years now, he believes, translating a vision into a collection is a journey filled with experimentation, failure, and eventually success. It starts with a concept, in my case often inspired by cosmic, mythology, or personal experiences. This is followed by extensive research and sketching. Fabric selection and testing are crucial, as they bring the designs to life. There are times when the initial ideas don’t work out as planned, requiring us to rethink and adapt. However, each failure is a learning experience that refines the outcome. The process is iterative and collaborative, involving countless hours of craftsmanship and innovation to ensure the final collection resonates with the envisioned theme, he concludes.
Nizams Reloaded
Basra pearls, Banarasis, Khada duppattas with ultra-modern corsets, Jayanti Reddy, a business graduate, self-taught designer, offers brides a potent mix of traditional with now at the Hyundai India Couture Week 2024. The highlight has been her collaboration with Italian jewellery powerhouse-Bvlgari. By Asmita Aggarwal One thing is clear Jayanti Reddy loves colour, she comes from the city of Nizams, Hyderabad, and being a first timer at the Hyundai India Couture Week 2024, she announced the arrival of fuchsias and bright reds even as pastels had taken over the runway. Colour washed the ramp, as asymmetrical kaftans, some came with one shoulder, made way for every hue of the red family, and even its closest cousins. Newly married beauty from the city of Nizams, Aditi Rao Hydari told us wearing a roomy sharara, with tone-on-tone embroidery and a jacket was the right choice. Veteran model, Carol Gracias’ opened the show, Reddy, introduced corsets with lehengas, simpler capes constructed to go with heavy lehengas without forgetting tradition—a range of Banarasis and brocades. When you are a debutant, you are unaware of market forces, you tread carefully, internally you are happy you got this fabulous opportunity—Jayanti Reddy, must be thinking as she shines on the India Couture Week 2024 runway. Reddy, from Hyderabad is growing with one store in Kala Ghoda, and one ready to open in Delhi at DLF Emporio, soon, but the business administration and marketing graduate from Case Western Reserve University, Ohio, USA, is a self-taught designer. Couture is about heavier pieces, I have been doing lighter ones for sangeet, mehndi, cocktails to bachelorette parties. I love bling, shimmer, my brand caters to myriad buyers from 21 to 65 years, she adds. Reddy has been an ardent admirer of everything au natural, even Kanchipurams. Experimentation is the key to success, jewel tones work best, pastels are a perennial favourite, and coming from the city of Nizams, she incorporated zardozi and zari, but makes sure it doesnt hurt the wearer. I have also used extensive threadwork and beads; you can wear my choli with another less ornate skirt, or the lehenga with a plain shirt, or the blazer that comes with the sari can be teamed with jeans, she adds, hoping her couture pieces will not stay locked up in a trunk. Reddy wanted a part of the over-the-top royalty to reflect in the linethus Basra pearls, detailing became the focus. Earlier flares worked, now everything has become sleeker, even though it remains a challenge to think of a theme every year, sometimes twice a year, Jayanti believes, the extravagant Nizami culture forms a potent inspiration. The way they manipulated gold, combined it with pearls, is what I attempted to showcase this season, she exclaims. The vintage Khada dupattas worn even over saris, add a touch of regality, and of course drama, it is the traditional costume of Muslim brides. Reddy has always worked with Banarasis, even creating jumpsuits in brocade, or corsets to be worn with saris. Women entrepreneurs must be respected especially when you dont belong to a fashion background and dont follow trends, start with one tailor. In fact, not following the set template helped her, and her business training in running a team of 250. When I started, in 2012, I wanted to dress a woman who was working and wanted something to wear that accentuated her status. Now, Im dressing brides, which I never thought I would, she adds. Whether its the bride or her extended family, there is something for everyoneeven the Ajrak dyed kurtas are an all-time favorite. Celeb dressing always helps, if its natural brand extension, I look at it as a form of support to the designer, as a lot of people like to emulate their style, she adds and hopes she too can soon do a film with Sanjay Leela Bhansali, or a period drama like Heeramandi. Despite doing bridal, Reddy believes recycling is part of her brands DNA, no fabric is allowed to go waste, they make either bags or tassels. I also advise brides to reuse their lehengas, we pull out the can-can, upcycle the old ones, make Anarkalis out of full skirts, she confesses, as she is back after a hiatus, the last show she did was in 2019. The most interesting collaboration for Reddy has been one that came organically—with the Italian jewellery powerhouse, Bulgari. They told me my clothes fit best into design ideology, as they wanted to market their uber luxe Serpenti watches and jewelled pieces. We shot a campaign in Bangkok, with my saris with blazers, and there is another to happen, it is in the pipeline, she admits, adding working with a luxury brand has been thrilling.
Rahul Mishra’s Valley of Daffodils
Flower power never loses its prowess, and Rahul Mishra at Hyundai ICW 2024, made sure the embroidered dupattas were unisex, the pants-suit is now out of the boardroom and frolicking at a cocktail party in a line titled, Nargis. By Asmita Aggarwal Nargis or daffodil is a lively yellow flower, it could also be the yesteryears actress, Nargis Dutt, I am guessing Rahul Mishra stuck to the floral variety, naming it for his line seeped in intricate thread work, at his Hyundai India Couture Week 2024 showcasing! His roots are in Malhausi, a non-descript village near Kanpur, which have gone far into the ground, as he has become the star of Paris, and its super competitive Couture Week, only selecting an exclusive few If his latest workplace is anything to go by 5,000 square feet, inNOIDA or the way that his wife Divya controls the office and directs the workforce, they are a team and thats what makes them so successful. At his showcasing there was live music, which seems to be the mood of Couture Week, and the Sufi master, Nusrat Fateh Ali Khans chart topper Afreen began with cancer survivor and model, Lisa Ray, 51, mom to twins, author of the book, Close to the Bone, take the catwalk in gossamer white, emboldened with roses in her hair. Rahul is a man of collaborations, recently, it was with the Singapore Tourism Board (STB), titled Beginnings. Made In Singapore, with actress Tamannaah Bhatia as the muse. His inspirations have been many—from his daughter Arnas Jungle book, underwater creatures, insects to Hindu mythology (Lord Brahma), old dilapidated havelis and most recently it was Aura at PCW. He began his journey in 2006, and at his presentation, explored various hues—structured jackets with placement embroideries, glow in the dark gowns glittering, bare backs with silvers of dupattas hanging from nimble shoulders, as Sufi Kalams, Chandni raatein played in the background taking us back to the 90s when this number was sung first by artiste Shamsa Kanwal. The ubiquitous sharara has come in various forms, embroidered and sheer, the cape and lehengas are now a No. 1 match, and a must-have in a new-age brides trousseau. Interestingly, the dupatta is interchangeable, it is unisex, it can be worn with a sherwani and lehenga. White, has emerged as a hue of marriages, lighter, softer, and is considered ceremonial. The pants suit was meant for corporate meetings, but Mishra has made it cocktail worthy, glistening with crystals, pearls, and glass beads. The flowers got bigger and bolder in off shoulder gowns, wedding wear today is a game of intricate embroidery techniques and surprising placements. The surface texture was so intricate on gowns that fabric disappeared; power shouldered capes, dripped with tassels, Rahul seemed to love lime green. Musicians really carry the show on their shoulders, A R Rahmans numbers are always a hit, no better way to end the show than that!
Game of Time
Amit Aggarwal serenades the impossibility, linearity, unpredictability of time and maybe tide, through his show as the past (cotton) meets the present (nylon), through his newly created fabric this season for Hyundai India Couture Week 2024. By Asmita Aggarwal When I watched the Amit Aggarwal show at the India Couture Week 2024, I felt a sense of connectionas if it was inspired by the film Matrix only it was reloaded this time! Remember Keanu Reeves and his cartwheels in the air? His battle against time, the film was inspired by Gita, and time travel? Well, Amits show was a bit like that! What I also liked was the fact that he got his admirers not for the catwalk but in the audience like the delicious looking Abhay Doel, a rarity on the ramp and in any fashion space, Dangal star Sana Fatima Shaikh, as well as Kritika Kamra. The set for me resembled a strand of human DNA, considering Amits love for science, I also admired the fact that he has a distinct and growing clientele loving his manipulations on fabric, in an embroidery and embellishment obsessed country. The garments moved with the body, almost in sync despite fervent hugging, it felt it was more of an artistic expression, and truly couture as he pushed the envelope. Amit ingeniously cut moulded fabric, the jackets for men with splatter of candle wax inspired embroidery were interesting. The older model is coming of age, a must for international shows of Dries Van Noten to Issey Miyake, age is now not definable, it is not a barometer of judging your ramp walk worthiness. The advent of reds and velvets for men further added to the spectacle. Amits Instagram is flooded with videos showing his journey to the Kabutar bazar, adjoining Chor Bazar, where he is scouting second-hand denim, sourcing fabrics that can be toughened, reused for his couture line. At the risk of exposing a slice of his personal life, Amit Aggarwal, admits going to bazaars has been a passion since his college days— a Sunday treat. It is entirely true that pegs of inspiration, untold stories lead to creation, among the many treasures that Amit finds, there is a particular jacket that has brought him joy, he is recycling it. This is besides the pre-owned Banarasi saris, he picked up to create updated versions adding his labour-intensive techniques cording to give it a fresh form. Remember the Patola upcycling he did for his brand Am-it, or how he dressed Priyanka Chopra Jonas in the Banarasi Navrangi saris, upcycled. Technology and science have been a part of his thinking since he began, more than ten years back, even a bit of biology and physics. Through the iCloud line that told us how much waste we store in our minds. It is imperative for me to try something new, or I will never know where the loopholes are. I am ready for that 15 minute of scrutiny at ICW, at least I tried, he smiles. There is always an emotion his clothes strike within the wearer, it comes with a wealth of material explorations, has a distinct brand language, making one-of-a-kind clothing, cant be replicated. His experiments this season, is creating a new-age fabric by mixing organic cotton, and nylon, on the hand loom. It offers fluidity, drapes, has a glass-like texture, but when it caresses your skin, it feels like cotton. In bridal, storytelling is the inception of thoughthe hopes to strike a balance by collaborating with faces who have engaging narratives. Never should there be an overkill, each piece must have a mystery, says Amit. A rose even when the petals fall off, remains one so couture should expose a sheer behind a layer, and as a couturier you must know how much is too much. Bridal for Amit is that one moment when you share bigger dreams with someone else, it is not just about wearing an embroidered lehenga, “it is a celebration of commonality. Thus, the show is moody, it transports you to a different space, explores recesses of your memory, through clothing which captures an experience. Showstoppers, a potent part of a couture week show, Amit believes some collections need a spokesperson and some dont, I dont believe in face value, he laughs. The ICW 2024 line is based on the concept of time which is represented through —science, religion, cosmology, and philosophy. Time has been looked at from a variety of angles, life is a game of time, he admits. Banarasi emulates the eternity of time, life after death; beading is about living in the now, little glimmers in our journey; how the beauty of a star is represented through the supernova, since its inception. The craft and new materials explorations represent the linearity of time, when today meets tomorrow, he explains. Time is a bit of a sorcerer, if you go by Einsteins Theory of Relativity, and quantum physics. The last concept is how time also sets an equilibrium, and it ties into the existence we know, he adds. It was in 1998 during the DD days when B R Chopra had everyone glued to their TV sets with his retelling of the epic Mahabharat, and there was one line that stayed with everyone, Main Samay hun the whole story was told by time.
Valaya’s Flying Carpets
From embroideries inspired by Mughal miniature paintings, big, broad embroidered belts cinching Sherwanis to reinventing the humble shalwar, cherry red lehengas to lighter chevron palazzos, J J Valaya redefined bridal wear. By Asmita Aggarwal It was the music directed, produced by Sahil Vasudeva, at the J J Valaya ICW 2024 show that accentuated the embellished capes and chevrons. Music can make or break a show, this one featuring Mahima Dayal (vocals), Kartikeya Vashist (flute), Tariq Vasudeva (spoken word), Suhel Saeed Khan (sitar), and Makrand Sanon (percussion) revved up the line titled, Muraqqa, an Arabic word for meditation. We sat in a pitched tent, surrounded by vintage carpets, with the sound of the desert instrument Oud playing, couture is really a mood. Sahil, played the piano live, even though he studied maths and economics like a good Indian kid, in Ohio, music was his calling and the show was a tribute to his father who passed away a few months ago —a person who always supported his dreams, got him private tuitions in classical piano, sent him to Delhi School of Music. You could see the prints on JJs lehengas inspired by Persian carpets, that spread like paintings on the runway, looking like you have entered a Turkish market, on a rainy Delhi evening. The aged metal embroideries seemed to be in tune with the desert theme, a Bedouin tribe, though Valaya, also gave us options of lighter printed palazzos with cholis. Saris came with capes shimmering with zardozi, on Rumis verses. Supermodel and model trainer, Laxmi Rana opened in a nose ring, and Valayas signature– a leather belted sari. The chevron safas, Mughal motifs, didnt channel softness, rather everything was extravagant. Valaya heralded the return of the salwar— updated, printed and narrower. The idea was to take us on a journeyPersia, Turkey to India; thus, the tribal music. Sahil used an African song and wrote Khusrows lyrics on it. The show was punctuated with a waterfall, thunder, and desert storm, they created a Devdas style character, who is pontificating on life, high on spirituality. He leads you to India, thus the show ends with Chaap, Tilak says Sahil. The Oud is a string instrument, the mothership is from where the sitar originated, Sahil did the composition in just five days, and improvised six minutes of a show to time it with the catwalk. In a live show you have to sometimes play catch up, and make up music on the spot, he says. Valayas big, broad fabric, embroidered belts cinched sherwanis, lehengas interestingly came with capes. Deer danced on lehengas, the entire forest frolicked on them too, the embroidery looked as if it walked out of a miniature painting. Handkerchief-shaped sherwanis were engaging, there were Patiala salwars for men and of course, the ceremonial red lehenga.
Dolly J’s Midas Touch
Body positivity, 3D motifs and inventing a new fabric, which rustles like paper but is organza, made Dolly Js ICW 2024 show, feel like a bouquet of roses. By Asmita Aggarwal Actor-turned-politician Shatrughan Sinhas wife Poonam, came to support her newly married daughter Sonakshi, in a woven sari. The set was a set brimming with roses —arches lined like a maze. Body positivity has always been important for me, and this collection is for young brides like Sonakshi, she is my muse. For me, it was a happy collection, says designer Dolly Jhunjhunwala, who introduced teals, mauves, and lavender in keeping with the mood of easier hues, at the ICW 2024 in a show titled La Vie En Rose or life in happy hues. The just married Sonakshi exclaimed, Any girl would love this — it is feminine, divine, and glam. The live music by singer Rachel, I was groovin to her beats. Im not a pink person, but it takes vision to put me in something like this. Today, it is my colour. Though I love red, white, pastels, yellows, and my all-time classic is cream. Sonakshi, dressed in a curvaceous pink gown, is not one to mince words, and admitted at her wedding, trendy is what I wore— a red woven sari, simplicity will never be out of fashion. What Dolly gave me is comfy, I can breathe, move around. It took me exactly five minutes to choose my wedding outfits. I wore my mothers sari and wedding jewellery for the court signing. Me and Zaheer are not fussy people, she laughed. She adds, she would like to wear something that makes her feel good from the inside. Flowy and feminine. Though for my bachelorette party, with the Sona Mandi theme I wore an Anarkali, the outfit spoke for itself, she added. Lilac gowns with leg show, burnt maroons with embroidered bodices, Sonakshi sang Love me by Justin Bieber, along with the live crooner Rachel, next to the piano, on stage, and said, Today, I am pretty in pink. Everything had a Midas touch -gold, boas, cutwork blouses, Dolly admits her signature remains gold/silver, plus, the love for colours, has been quite vividthis year the theme looks like Cinderella reloaded, more like once upon a time, whimsical for the India Couture Week 2024. Florals remain a constant, easy light shimmer makes movement less restrictive, India is incomplete without bling, she admits with a smile. This season, the innovations range from developing a fabric, which has the feel of paper, but is organza blended. Clothes I design are not very Indian in their shapes, says the self-taught designer. The motifs are 3 D just as she likes them, only bigger and bolder, with peacock feathers, incorporated in the iconography. Mostly, cholis have gone risqué, but this time, Dolly has wooed the ones, who like to keep it traditional, fish cuts work well as well, as gowns and fitted skirts. Brides have stopped hoarding clothes they want to wear and use, but the buying is timed, according to the occasion and season. There are fitter bodies, so they desire sculpted clothes, she adds. Her repertoire has faux feathers for glamour, bustiers knotted at the back, sheer as well as gowns with pockets, not forgetting functionality. Pink has been a bestseller and this time, Dolly tried a bit of teal, even though that was not her design vocabulary, though she hasnt bid adieu to hot red! Dolly Jhunjhunwala, has earlier paid a tribute to pearls in her line Basra, won over Sachin Tendulkars daughter Sara with an embellished draped sari, emboldened with thread work in gold as well as sequins.
Kunal pursues Patolas
Kunal Rawal introduces Patola-inspired weave for grooms, turning tables on traditionality; he serenades us with denim dhotis, and comfort, to make sure reusability, and functionality co-exist at ICW 2024. By Asmita Aggarwal Remember Ranbir Kapoors hybrid dhoti, well, Kunal Rawal is the one to take risks. Even though he is young in couture, he believes he has found his feet, and often says, India is 14 countries in one the craft is diverse, and so is the market. We are a country of celebrations where marriages are auspicious, and grand, so why shouldnt couture be personalized, to suit the psyche more than the body type? Star Arjun Kapoor may not have the abs like the rest of the Bollywood toned gang, but he does have a winning attitude, whether it was giving up his seat for a lady during the show, or posing freely with his fans, he has no starry airs. Well, Aditya Roy Kapoor, is a different ball game he is suave, unshackled and seems to have fun in whatever he does, he was the ideal showstopper for Rawal. Kunal gave us mogras, the sweet smell wafted through the hall, and cushions to sit on, creating an oasis, with birds chirping and greenery. In his unique style, the show began with Gurmukhi, and then it was raining men —bearded, wearing earrings, kundals, ponytails, turbans to delicious curls. As Kala Doria played with IP Singh and Akshay Raheja, women walked in sherwanis armed with silver-edged swords. The turning of tables wasnt restricted to just shapes, Kunal convinced Aparna Bahl, the choreographer to take the cue and walk the ramp. Kunal got older, bulkier models in dhotis, he does know how to add drama, music played a big role in the presentation which had everyone foot-tapping. Culturally couture is the richest, and GenZ demand a hand-crafted product, which has a fresh thought, can be reused, has real value, comfort, of course, is king, says Kunal, adding, couture is mostly looked at for women, men were never in the game, only for the last few years, there has been a shift. Menswear, he believes, is a specialists job, thats why he admires Rick Owens for his ingenious concepts, and what Alessandro Michele did for Gucci, almost giving it a new identity. Men have clarity, are strong minded, they are loyalists, now unlike earlier, they take a keen interest in what they want to wear, he admits. For ICW 2024, the overall theme revolves around union of two minds thus, the title Sehera, the science behind auspicious dates intrigued Kunal. You want to make sure, a marriage has positivity, good energy, and favorable omen, he says. Thus, his motifs are inspired from this sentiment — betel leaves, evil eye, coconuts, wedding are soaked in a robust layer of culture, they have a distinct spiritual side. To fructify his thinking, he has come armed with a treasure trove of textileshis most potent armour is the Patola-inspired, hand woven, weave, traditionally women have loved. He has delved into Chikankari for the first time, brocades, and Bandhini are all time favourites, he created unique block prints, used silks and Ajraks to craft safas to stoles. For me, a line is successful only if it is comfortable, he adds. You can see how effortlessly his deconstructed sherwani works, or Patiala, breeches, pants are done in stretch, linings are sweat absorbent, fabrics weights are lighter, and come with an exquisite fall. The paneling in the bandhgala, is cut closer to the body, making way for exciting shapes. There is no cookie cutter method we follow, it is all about pattern play, he admits. He works on technicalities, jersey sleeves add ease in movement, he urges grooms not to go in for a mannequin look, but customize it. Taking it a step further, there is personalized lining on offer, cusping used to join pieces together, ensuring smoothness in wear. When I started, I felt there was a uniformity in menswear for weddings, the product was boring, men were dictated how they need to look. Now there has been an evolution, he explains. Personally, he admires drapes, but has only attempted a few, this time he has dhotis, even though flares are in trend, Kunal has not worked with them. He introduced nifty dropped crotches, six types of Aligarh shalwars, in modern iterations. Everything comes with lots of pockets, he reiterates. After design, music is his love, this year for the ICW 2024 show, he created five new tracks, he believes storytelling in the format of weddings excites him tremendously. Aesthetically groom wear is altering; hand crafted products are being appreciated. As a designer, I feel fortunate to be able to access varied textiles, seeped in history, he concludes.
Tytler’s Echoes of Roman Grandeur
Taking us back in time, to the Roman empire, replete with its imposing iconography, Siddartha Tytlers dark, grand line played with asymmetry, sheer and glimmering rhinestones at the ICW 2024. By Asmita Aggarwal He is the quintessential Mr Handsome Rahul Khanna, it has a lot to do with his genetics, being the son of Bollywood dreamboat Vinod Khanna, but unlike his father, he is doing fewer films, and is mostly setting Instagram on fire. At 50, if he can sizzle like that it is more to do with just looks! Mr Khanna was the showstopper at Siddartha Tytler ICW 2024 showcasing, where he told us through his line, Caligulas Feast, how decadence can be translated through extravagant ensembles, bursting with shimmer. Giving us a lesson in history — Gaius Caesar Augustus Germanicus, a Roman emperor, was assassination in 41 AD, but till he lived he courted pageantry like none other. Tytler exclaimed, He lived life large; a bit like me. The ramp was converted into a debauched feast, with a revolving stage, and a Roman bust at the centre, overflowing with flowers and lit candles, it had all the theatrics of 70 MM entertainment, and in this glamorous mix was also Malaika Arora, dressed as Tytler said, as if she is going to war donning an armour. What I am wearing is stunning, I felt like a fierce goddess, exclaimed Malaika. For the Roman emperor, known for his debauchery, and ostentation, the show paid homage to how he was also the most amazing host —thus the huge spread. On a lighter note, preparing for a show can be daunting, but Mr Khanna seemed unfazed, he laughed, I only thing I check to see is if my zip is fastened, of course I always take a few deep breaths. Khanna, who is a star amongst his fans, wore a velvet sherwani, with placement embroidery, though Aroras cutwork gown accentuated all the curves, she so diligently worked out without fail! My shoes should fit right; I should feel comfortable. I always say a prayer every single time before I hit the runway. And this garment is in addition to the many blacks I proudly own, she said, adding, I get FOMO if I dont walk the ramp. Tytlers draped gowns, complemented the imposing sets, exaggerated sleeves, charcoals, velvet as his sherwanis came with mythical golden birds flying on jackets with their beaks glistening with rhinestones. He thoroughly enjoyed adding asymmetry, played with layering and gave Malaika corsetry in gunmetal embroidery, depicting the strength he admires within her. Interestingly, the kurtas had metamorphosed, got many cousinshigh low hems, draped, pleated et al. He included faux fur, introduced cropped jackets with pants, asymmetrical dhotis, liquid fabrics that hugged the waists, and created the mood with Roman leaf-shaped emperor headbands. The dupatta draping aped the extravagance of the erstwhile kings. White and gold remains a winning combination, fabric manipulated into high-waisted skirts, more than lehengas there were options you could choose from. Kaftans as well as abundance of sheer teared through in body hugging gowns, skirts, exaggerated sleeves, exposing washboard abs and endless legs. Heavily jewel-toned jackets, large floral printed pant suits— bold was the mood. As flowers were everywhere, it was if you entered the garden of five senses, Tytler balanced louder pieces with frothier prints, rather than zardosi. Grand, dark are themes which interest me, concludes Tytler.
Suneet Varma’s ode to shine
Mirror work, to mokaish, shimmer has always been the highlight of Suneet Varma’s oeuvre, even as the designer, who was trained by Yves Saint Laurent announces, there is nothing better than being in the spotlight on your D-Day at ICW 2024! By Asmita Aggarwal What I really look forward to in a Suneet Varma show is his jig at the end of the showcasing—and let me tell you he has the moves! Suneet likes constantssexy, shine, glamour, and decade-old friendships. When we talk of shimmer, there is no one who can light up like Suneet—a tree stood in the middle of the runway, and the show began with Urdu poetry, thus the title Nazm for the Hyundai ICW 2024. Few know that Suneets mom, Indira is an avid lover of Urdu shayari, and they both bond over classic Hindi numbers. Over the years she has offered him unflinching support! From the 60s Ghar Ghar Ki Kahani, and a song by Kishore Kumar….Sama hai Suhana Suneet gave us a taste of vintage Bollywood with a dash of gold through his pre-stitched sari-gowns. Pearls were strung together to form blouses, cutwork flowers, rested on nimble shoulders, he used various techniques in the library of sparklemokaish to mirror work. Now that old is really gold— and Zeenat Aman is everyones It girl it was only apt to pay a tribute to her hipster pants era and strumming a guitar, in Chura liya hain tumne jo dil ko in the inimitable voice of Asha Bhonsle and Rafi saheb. There is undoubtedly no one as fashion-forward as Zeenat, thus models came armed with pixelated sequinned saris in white. Interestingly, he had socialite Shalini Passi almost dressed as a Barbie, only ruffled, in a sari. Bollywood chart-toppers kept the rhythm divine, from Aao na gale lago na, conjuring up images of Helen moving like a dream with heartthrob Rajesh Khanna, serendipitously also dressed in pink and gold! Faux feathers, bare backs channelled sexy, as the ramp was overtaken by mirror work, gotta borders, as if we had entered a house of illusionthrough tiny mirrors. The veil is enjoying its moment in the spotlight, and the Suneets fully beaded bustiers, and draped saris, reminding you of the ones that yesteryear actress Mumtaz wore, made vintage appealing. Palazzos offered ease, with tunics cut away from the body, as draped dhotis in ash grey, were worn with flared sleeve blouses. Sequinned sheaths, asymmetrical tunics teamed up with shararas, even if you switched off the lights, the garments will shine unabashedly. Surface ornamentation was Suneets way of welcoming a bride, who wanted to make sure she was the highlight of her D-Day!
Roses with lace for Isha Jajodia
Lace and Chikankari make a heady combo, as Isha of Rose Room woos brides with a softer, lighter full skirt, with just charming hints of shimmer for ICW 2024. By Asmita Aggarwal Black, lace and Jackie! There seems to be nothing better than this, add a top bun to this mix, and you get a show that tells brides —- you don’t need to be weighed down by zari, and zardozi, try lace. “I love her work,” said Bollywood actress Jacqueline Fernandes, adding, “I’ve been a fan of Rose Room, Isha has dressed me for many special occasions. The romance and femininity she offers, is a match made in heaven. There is superlative Indian craftsmanship making each piece graceful, and chic, almost timeless,” says Fernandes. Charcoal was not in the vocabulary of wedding wear, but Isha admits, she wanted to pay homage to its potency. “We don’t see this particular hue in Indian couture, Jackie was my muse, she manages to bring out the inner goddess. While I dressed Riddhima Kapoor Sahni in Chikankari with pearls,” says Isha. “I was confident what Isha would make me wear would be perfect, and it was,” says the sister of the Bollywood star Ranbir Kapoor, Riddhima. Rose Room had ornate tassels, off white, buttery hues were intermingled with faux feathers, and the body huggers came with trails. She added lace stockings under gowns, and bodysuits. Corsets were everywhere– fish tail gowns serenaded fitter bodies, though pants suits were worn with corsets and sheer shirts tucked, adding flirty layers. Isha prefers subtle glamour –mocha to peach. Saris with capes, and fabric manipulated into roses on gowns, elegant was the overall mood. Cinched waists, long net trials, beaded bustiers, emerald green shararas with racer back tunics, dropped shoulders cholis more ruffled than risqué, often came bunched up. Isha doesn’t like to mix hues, she keeps it solid—like the flaming reds. Gold Romanesque breast plates were tied at the back, calling only petite women, as the embroidery was tone-on-tone. Isha believes brides today are taking the unconventional route for their D-Day—the lehenga, choli and dupatta is outdated. Now it is the advent of corsets, full skirts, and maybe a short jacket. That’s why her ICW 2024 line, “Art of Eternity” is wooing new-age women with laces, specially developed, much more intricate than last year when she has the statuesque Vani Kapoor, in flaming red. Bridal hues too have taken a tumble with new, fresh, light colours reigning, mostly pastels, and add a certain “frothiness” to the ensemble, she adds. “I have introduced a softer palette, with dashes of red, which you could say is my signature. This year, architectural motifs forge a bond with laces to offer delicateness,” says Isha. In a wedding market dominated by heavy zari, zardozi, dabka to aari, gotta patti, there is a client, who wants to feel free, and easy and above all, not weighed down by threadwork. Isha’s recent trip to Rome, served as an inspiration in March this year, where the imposing churches, where the catacombs and frescos, some built in 440 AD, replete with mosaics, columns, arches and sculptures remain etched in her memory. “The detailing is what stayed with me, frankly being a creative person, it can come from anywhere even a Michelin star winning restaurant, or a cruise, I have so many moments in the treasure trove of my imagination,” she adds. Isha’s clients love the cinched waists, slender structured shapes, but elegant, she has not lost touch with what she began with “Chikankari. ” My line is paying an ode to love, in a poetic way, through the medium of couture, it is various forms of love “mostly importantly self-love,” she concludes.