Pratima Pandeys line is drenched in love, even if it is unrequited; Vaishali immerses herself in classical music; Amit GT woos red carpet and Malini Ramani shines
By Asmita Aggarwal
Young designers from the label Myoho, (the Buddhist chant Nam Myoho Renge Kyo) Kiran and Meghna, practicing Buddhists started out working with Priyadashani Rao in Mumbai and thats where a friendship grew into business partnership. Five years back the two decided to launch their label, which would be a celebration of relaxed silhouettes combined with bright hues. We came with something Indian, a colour most women will associate with and thats sindoor red, which we thought will add a bit of vivacity to the ensembles, says Kiran.
Pearl embroidery, pleated sides of dresses, asymmetrical cuts, button down tunics, the omnipresent palazzos and cowls made an impressive run on the catwalk. But it was Mumbais pride Nachiket Barve, who stole the show with his daring line, paying a tribute to the Maori tribe, from New Zealand. As a young kid I would collect National Geographic magazines and today I have an impressive library of books dating back to 1972. I am fascinated by nature, it is the biggest teacher, and also my most exhaustive reference point for fashion, says Nachiket Barve. As his parents, both doctors proudly sat on the front row, Nachis laser cutwork was dexterously executed, intermingled with 3D embroidery, appliqué and tie and dye touches. I wanted to do something new, explore a different dimension, in the process raw silk I discovered was a perfect medium, as we kept the shapes boxy with easy jackets to make it a winter where a woman doesnt feel uneasy, he adds.
Malini Ramani is undoubtedly the queen of style and shine, as she unabashedly confesses, but what was charming was her mirror work with a golden halo (threadwork) and ingenious capes which were given a monochromatic rendition. Thigh high slits, bold draped skirts and flirty silhouettes were targeted at a woman who is comfortable with her sexuality and proud to show that gym-toned body she has worked tirelessly to achieve.
Pratima Pandey, a NIFT graduate is a player of layers, so her well-crafted sheer tunics in delicious chanderi and crushed floral skirts were a delight. Singing Sparrow, her line for autumn-winter also included velvet shawls with zardosi borders, churri sleeves her signature and shortened palazzos which now seem to be de rigueur on the ramp. But Pratima was trying to tell the story of love, through Frances greatest songstress Edith Piaf, who believed it is only love that makes the world go round no matter how many curveballs life throws your way, you have to keep going. Edith born in France in the early 1900 was abandoned by her father, raised by prostitutes, went blind, and had a really miserable life; she fell in love with a man (married boxer Marcel Cerdan, who died in a plane crash) who never accepted her, but she didnt give up. It was a story that sung to me, and her song La Vie en Rose is a celebration of romance and the collection therefore is seen through those rose-tinted glasses, says Pratima.
Amit GT, on the other hand, courted Red Carpet glamour, with his fitted gowns, which sometimes came with collars and high necks, with waists moving up and cinched with thin buckle belts. Royal blue created a mood of splendor, while trails added unrestrained glamour.
Though it was the dark horse Vaishali S., who intermingled her innate love for classical music with weaves, her chosen path in fashion. Khadi and silk two showstoppers for Vaishali made a stunning return, a continuation from her debut line Khawja, along with motifs from West Bengal which were interspersed seamlessly in Bhinna Shadja, an ode to a raga which has mesmerised her. I wanted to show Western garments, as thats the only way weaves can travel globally, she concludes.
