LSE graduate Dhruv Kapur is charmed by the mystery that surrounds veils, so this SS 16 he removed them from the bracket of subjugation, and infuses them with unbridled ascendancy
By Asmita Aggarwal
You would never expect a London School of Economics graduate to give up lucrative offers to launch his label in 2012 and defy set norms that an Armymans son is bound to follow his fathers footsteps. But Dhruv kapur has broken many such societal codes, by opting for a summer internship at Harvey Nichols rather than a finance firm, while studying in England. Even when people used to ask me what I will do at the age of 5, I was clear it wasnt going to be the armed forces. But LSE taught me how to run a business, understand the way markets move, so when I entered fashion with absolutely no education, I decided to approach it with an eye on the future and attention to detail, says Dhruv, a first-timer at the Amazon India Fashion Week SS 16.
It is the architecture of a garment that interests him, more than embroidery techniques, as fashion remains influenced by socio-economic factors, where sustainability, anti-fit now is the name of the game. I, on the other hand, am body conscious. I do worry about how an ensemble falls on the body or frames it. Even though I tried not to fit in by offering natural alternatives to a market saturated by Chinese silk and neoprene, I took the road less travelled, he smiles.
Combining fine tailoring with organic fabrics, Dhruvs details attempt to break down convention, by changing what exists or turning it around to give it a whole new meaning. If you see his hand work, by the way he made fur out of silk, it is commendable—to create one meter, it took 100 hours of labour, but the results he says, were spectacular. Last season, his basket weave was exemplary in the way in which his gowns, were hand crafted with each strip made of silk and then woven together to create the silhouette.
This SS 16 he has experimented with lengths, so the usual 28 inch top now is 36 inches. Or shorts which are by convention 18 inches from the waist are now 26 inches. It is a hide and seek game; playing with proportions, he adds. But thats not all, he has subverted beliefs to make what is often considered a means of subjugation to a power accessory. Veils, are now granting confidence and domination to a woman, along with a sense of mystery, plus it is a great protection for summer, he asserts.
Whats exciting is the organic denim, something to look out for, which lacks the thickness and heaviness of the fabric, and has been transformed into a fluid drape. This along with tea dyes, give the base colour of the collection, the subtle beige, which gives the blue of the denim and white a nice sheen, he adds. Mix this with straight cuts, with nips from waists removed for a rather relaxed feel, and you get what Dhruv envisioned—spring is calmer, subdued and organic. I would say construction is my biggest strength, and embellishment a big weakness, and if it wasnt for the lure of inspirational ideas season after season, I would surely be teaching English at a neighbourhood school, he grins.
Read more from Day 4 #AIFWSS16 on the Amazon.in Blog