Nizams Reloaded
Basra pearls, Banarasis, Khada duppattas with ultra-modern corsets, Jayanti Reddy, a business graduate, self-taught designer, offers brides a potent mix of traditional with now at the Hyundai India Couture Week 2024. The highlight has been her collaboration with Italian jewellery powerhouse-Bvlgari. By Asmita Aggarwal One thing is clear Jayanti Reddy loves colour, she comes from the city of Nizams, Hyderabad, and being a first timer at the Hyundai India Couture Week 2024, she announced the arrival of fuchsias and bright reds even as pastels had taken over the runway. Colour washed the ramp, as asymmetrical kaftans, some came with one shoulder, made way for every hue of the red family, and even its closest cousins. Newly married beauty from the city of Nizams, Aditi Rao Hydari told us wearing a roomy sharara, with tone-on-tone embroidery and a jacket was the right choice. Veteran model, Carol Gracias’ opened the show, Reddy, introduced corsets with lehengas, simpler capes constructed to go with heavy lehengas without forgetting tradition—a range of Banarasis and brocades. When you are a debutant, you are unaware of market forces, you tread carefully, internally you are happy you got this fabulous opportunity—Jayanti Reddy, must be thinking as she shines on the India Couture Week 2024 runway. Reddy, from Hyderabad is growing with one store in Kala Ghoda, and one ready to open in Delhi at DLF Emporio, soon, but the business administration and marketing graduate from Case Western Reserve University, Ohio, USA, is a self-taught designer. Couture is about heavier pieces, I have been doing lighter ones for sangeet, mehndi, cocktails to bachelorette parties. I love bling, shimmer, my brand caters to myriad buyers from 21 to 65 years, she adds. Reddy has been an ardent admirer of everything au natural, even Kanchipurams. Experimentation is the key to success, jewel tones work best, pastels are a perennial favourite, and coming from the city of Nizams, she incorporated zardozi and zari, but makes sure it doesnt hurt the wearer. I have also used extensive threadwork and beads; you can wear my choli with another less ornate skirt, or the lehenga with a plain shirt, or the blazer that comes with the sari can be teamed with jeans, she adds, hoping her couture pieces will not stay locked up in a trunk. Reddy wanted a part of the over-the-top royalty to reflect in the linethus Basra pearls, detailing became the focus. Earlier flares worked, now everything has become sleeker, even though it remains a challenge to think of a theme every year, sometimes twice a year, Jayanti believes, the extravagant Nizami culture forms a potent inspiration. The way they manipulated gold, combined it with pearls, is what I attempted to showcase this season, she exclaims. The vintage Khada dupattas worn even over saris, add a touch of regality, and of course drama, it is the traditional costume of Muslim brides. Reddy has always worked with Banarasis, even creating jumpsuits in brocade, or corsets to be worn with saris. Women entrepreneurs must be respected especially when you dont belong to a fashion background and dont follow trends, start with one tailor. In fact, not following the set template helped her, and her business training in running a team of 250. When I started, in 2012, I wanted to dress a woman who was working and wanted something to wear that accentuated her status. Now, Im dressing brides, which I never thought I would, she adds. Whether its the bride or her extended family, there is something for everyoneeven the Ajrak dyed kurtas are an all-time favorite. Celeb dressing always helps, if its natural brand extension, I look at it as a form of support to the designer, as a lot of people like to emulate their style, she adds and hopes she too can soon do a film with Sanjay Leela Bhansali, or a period drama like Heeramandi. Despite doing bridal, Reddy believes recycling is part of her brands DNA, no fabric is allowed to go waste, they make either bags or tassels. I also advise brides to reuse their lehengas, we pull out the can-can, upcycle the old ones, make Anarkalis out of full skirts, she confesses, as she is back after a hiatus, the last show she did was in 2019. The most interesting collaboration for Reddy has been one that came organically—with the Italian jewellery powerhouse, Bulgari. They told me my clothes fit best into design ideology, as they wanted to market their uber luxe Serpenti watches and jewelled pieces. We shot a campaign in Bangkok, with my saris with blazers, and there is another to happen, it is in the pipeline, she admits, adding working with a luxury brand has been thrilling.
Rahul Mishra’s Valley of Daffodils
Flower power never loses its prowess, and Rahul Mishra at Hyundai ICW 2024, made sure the embroidered dupattas were unisex, the pants-suit is now out of the boardroom and frolicking at a cocktail party in a line titled, Nargis. By Asmita Aggarwal Nargis or daffodil is a lively yellow flower, it could also be the yesteryears actress, Nargis Dutt, I am guessing Rahul Mishra stuck to the floral variety, naming it for his line seeped in intricate thread work, at his Hyundai India Couture Week 2024 showcasing! His roots are in Malhausi, a non-descript village near Kanpur, which have gone far into the ground, as he has become the star of Paris, and its super competitive Couture Week, only selecting an exclusive few If his latest workplace is anything to go by 5,000 square feet, inNOIDA or the way that his wife Divya controls the office and directs the workforce, they are a team and thats what makes them so successful. At his showcasing there was live music, which seems to be the mood of Couture Week, and the Sufi master, Nusrat Fateh Ali Khans chart topper Afreen began with cancer survivor and model, Lisa Ray, 51, mom to twins, author of the book, Close to the Bone, take the catwalk in gossamer white, emboldened with roses in her hair. Rahul is a man of collaborations, recently, it was with the Singapore Tourism Board (STB), titled Beginnings. Made In Singapore, with actress Tamannaah Bhatia as the muse. His inspirations have been many—from his daughter Arnas Jungle book, underwater creatures, insects to Hindu mythology (Lord Brahma), old dilapidated havelis and most recently it was Aura at PCW. He began his journey in 2006, and at his presentation, explored various hues—structured jackets with placement embroideries, glow in the dark gowns glittering, bare backs with silvers of dupattas hanging from nimble shoulders, as Sufi Kalams, Chandni raatein played in the background taking us back to the 90s when this number was sung first by artiste Shamsa Kanwal. The ubiquitous sharara has come in various forms, embroidered and sheer, the cape and lehengas are now a No. 1 match, and a must-have in a new-age brides trousseau. Interestingly, the dupatta is interchangeable, it is unisex, it can be worn with a sherwani and lehenga. White, has emerged as a hue of marriages, lighter, softer, and is considered ceremonial. The pants suit was meant for corporate meetings, but Mishra has made it cocktail worthy, glistening with crystals, pearls, and glass beads. The flowers got bigger and bolder in off shoulder gowns, wedding wear today is a game of intricate embroidery techniques and surprising placements. The surface texture was so intricate on gowns that fabric disappeared; power shouldered capes, dripped with tassels, Rahul seemed to love lime green. Musicians really carry the show on their shoulders, A R Rahmans numbers are always a hit, no better way to end the show than that!
Game of Time
Amit Aggarwal serenades the impossibility, linearity, unpredictability of time and maybe tide, through his show as the past (cotton) meets the present (nylon), through his newly created fabric this season for Hyundai India Couture Week 2024. By Asmita Aggarwal When I watched the Amit Aggarwal show at the India Couture Week 2024, I felt a sense of connectionas if it was inspired by the film Matrix only it was reloaded this time! Remember Keanu Reeves and his cartwheels in the air? His battle against time, the film was inspired by Gita, and time travel? Well, Amits show was a bit like that! What I also liked was the fact that he got his admirers not for the catwalk but in the audience like the delicious looking Abhay Doel, a rarity on the ramp and in any fashion space, Dangal star Sana Fatima Shaikh, as well as Kritika Kamra. The set for me resembled a strand of human DNA, considering Amits love for science, I also admired the fact that he has a distinct and growing clientele loving his manipulations on fabric, in an embroidery and embellishment obsessed country. The garments moved with the body, almost in sync despite fervent hugging, it felt it was more of an artistic expression, and truly couture as he pushed the envelope. Amit ingeniously cut moulded fabric, the jackets for men with splatter of candle wax inspired embroidery were interesting. The older model is coming of age, a must for international shows of Dries Van Noten to Issey Miyake, age is now not definable, it is not a barometer of judging your ramp walk worthiness. The advent of reds and velvets for men further added to the spectacle. Amits Instagram is flooded with videos showing his journey to the Kabutar bazar, adjoining Chor Bazar, where he is scouting second-hand denim, sourcing fabrics that can be toughened, reused for his couture line. At the risk of exposing a slice of his personal life, Amit Aggarwal, admits going to bazaars has been a passion since his college days— a Sunday treat. It is entirely true that pegs of inspiration, untold stories lead to creation, among the many treasures that Amit finds, there is a particular jacket that has brought him joy, he is recycling it. This is besides the pre-owned Banarasi saris, he picked up to create updated versions adding his labour-intensive techniques cording to give it a fresh form. Remember the Patola upcycling he did for his brand Am-it, or how he dressed Priyanka Chopra Jonas in the Banarasi Navrangi saris, upcycled. Technology and science have been a part of his thinking since he began, more than ten years back, even a bit of biology and physics. Through the iCloud line that told us how much waste we store in our minds. It is imperative for me to try something new, or I will never know where the loopholes are. I am ready for that 15 minute of scrutiny at ICW, at least I tried, he smiles. There is always an emotion his clothes strike within the wearer, it comes with a wealth of material explorations, has a distinct brand language, making one-of-a-kind clothing, cant be replicated. His experiments this season, is creating a new-age fabric by mixing organic cotton, and nylon, on the hand loom. It offers fluidity, drapes, has a glass-like texture, but when it caresses your skin, it feels like cotton. In bridal, storytelling is the inception of thoughthe hopes to strike a balance by collaborating with faces who have engaging narratives. Never should there be an overkill, each piece must have a mystery, says Amit. A rose even when the petals fall off, remains one so couture should expose a sheer behind a layer, and as a couturier you must know how much is too much. Bridal for Amit is that one moment when you share bigger dreams with someone else, it is not just about wearing an embroidered lehenga, “it is a celebration of commonality. Thus, the show is moody, it transports you to a different space, explores recesses of your memory, through clothing which captures an experience. Showstoppers, a potent part of a couture week show, Amit believes some collections need a spokesperson and some dont, I dont believe in face value, he laughs. The ICW 2024 line is based on the concept of time which is represented through —science, religion, cosmology, and philosophy. Time has been looked at from a variety of angles, life is a game of time, he admits. Banarasi emulates the eternity of time, life after death; beading is about living in the now, little glimmers in our journey; how the beauty of a star is represented through the supernova, since its inception. The craft and new materials explorations represent the linearity of time, when today meets tomorrow, he explains. Time is a bit of a sorcerer, if you go by Einsteins Theory of Relativity, and quantum physics. The last concept is how time also sets an equilibrium, and it ties into the existence we know, he adds. It was in 1998 during the DD days when B R Chopra had everyone glued to their TV sets with his retelling of the epic Mahabharat, and there was one line that stayed with everyone, Main Samay hun the whole story was told by time.
Valaya’s Flying Carpets
From embroideries inspired by Mughal miniature paintings, big, broad embroidered belts cinching Sherwanis to reinventing the humble shalwar, cherry red lehengas to lighter chevron palazzos, J J Valaya redefined bridal wear. By Asmita Aggarwal It was the music directed, produced by Sahil Vasudeva, at the J J Valaya ICW 2024 show that accentuated the embellished capes and chevrons. Music can make or break a show, this one featuring Mahima Dayal (vocals), Kartikeya Vashist (flute), Tariq Vasudeva (spoken word), Suhel Saeed Khan (sitar), and Makrand Sanon (percussion) revved up the line titled, Muraqqa, an Arabic word for meditation. We sat in a pitched tent, surrounded by vintage carpets, with the sound of the desert instrument Oud playing, couture is really a mood. Sahil, played the piano live, even though he studied maths and economics like a good Indian kid, in Ohio, music was his calling and the show was a tribute to his father who passed away a few months ago —a person who always supported his dreams, got him private tuitions in classical piano, sent him to Delhi School of Music. You could see the prints on JJs lehengas inspired by Persian carpets, that spread like paintings on the runway, looking like you have entered a Turkish market, on a rainy Delhi evening. The aged metal embroideries seemed to be in tune with the desert theme, a Bedouin tribe, though Valaya, also gave us options of lighter printed palazzos with cholis. Saris came with capes shimmering with zardozi, on Rumis verses. Supermodel and model trainer, Laxmi Rana opened in a nose ring, and Valayas signature– a leather belted sari. The chevron safas, Mughal motifs, didnt channel softness, rather everything was extravagant. Valaya heralded the return of the salwar— updated, printed and narrower. The idea was to take us on a journeyPersia, Turkey to India; thus, the tribal music. Sahil used an African song and wrote Khusrows lyrics on it. The show was punctuated with a waterfall, thunder, and desert storm, they created a Devdas style character, who is pontificating on life, high on spirituality. He leads you to India, thus the show ends with Chaap, Tilak says Sahil. The Oud is a string instrument, the mothership is from where the sitar originated, Sahil did the composition in just five days, and improvised six minutes of a show to time it with the catwalk. In a live show you have to sometimes play catch up, and make up music on the spot, he says. Valayas big, broad fabric, embroidered belts cinched sherwanis, lehengas interestingly came with capes. Deer danced on lehengas, the entire forest frolicked on them too, the embroidery looked as if it walked out of a miniature painting. Handkerchief-shaped sherwanis were engaging, there were Patiala salwars for men and of course, the ceremonial red lehenga.
Dolly J’s Midas Touch
Body positivity, 3D motifs and inventing a new fabric, which rustles like paper but is organza, made Dolly Js ICW 2024 show, feel like a bouquet of roses. By Asmita Aggarwal Actor-turned-politician Shatrughan Sinhas wife Poonam, came to support her newly married daughter Sonakshi, in a woven sari. The set was a set brimming with roses —arches lined like a maze. Body positivity has always been important for me, and this collection is for young brides like Sonakshi, she is my muse. For me, it was a happy collection, says designer Dolly Jhunjhunwala, who introduced teals, mauves, and lavender in keeping with the mood of easier hues, at the ICW 2024 in a show titled La Vie En Rose or life in happy hues. The just married Sonakshi exclaimed, Any girl would love this — it is feminine, divine, and glam. The live music by singer Rachel, I was groovin to her beats. Im not a pink person, but it takes vision to put me in something like this. Today, it is my colour. Though I love red, white, pastels, yellows, and my all-time classic is cream. Sonakshi, dressed in a curvaceous pink gown, is not one to mince words, and admitted at her wedding, trendy is what I wore— a red woven sari, simplicity will never be out of fashion. What Dolly gave me is comfy, I can breathe, move around. It took me exactly five minutes to choose my wedding outfits. I wore my mothers sari and wedding jewellery for the court signing. Me and Zaheer are not fussy people, she laughed. She adds, she would like to wear something that makes her feel good from the inside. Flowy and feminine. Though for my bachelorette party, with the Sona Mandi theme I wore an Anarkali, the outfit spoke for itself, she added. Lilac gowns with leg show, burnt maroons with embroidered bodices, Sonakshi sang Love me by Justin Bieber, along with the live crooner Rachel, next to the piano, on stage, and said, Today, I am pretty in pink. Everything had a Midas touch -gold, boas, cutwork blouses, Dolly admits her signature remains gold/silver, plus, the love for colours, has been quite vividthis year the theme looks like Cinderella reloaded, more like once upon a time, whimsical for the India Couture Week 2024. Florals remain a constant, easy light shimmer makes movement less restrictive, India is incomplete without bling, she admits with a smile. This season, the innovations range from developing a fabric, which has the feel of paper, but is organza blended. Clothes I design are not very Indian in their shapes, says the self-taught designer. The motifs are 3 D just as she likes them, only bigger and bolder, with peacock feathers, incorporated in the iconography. Mostly, cholis have gone risqué, but this time, Dolly has wooed the ones, who like to keep it traditional, fish cuts work well as well, as gowns and fitted skirts. Brides have stopped hoarding clothes they want to wear and use, but the buying is timed, according to the occasion and season. There are fitter bodies, so they desire sculpted clothes, she adds. Her repertoire has faux feathers for glamour, bustiers knotted at the back, sheer as well as gowns with pockets, not forgetting functionality. Pink has been a bestseller and this time, Dolly tried a bit of teal, even though that was not her design vocabulary, though she hasnt bid adieu to hot red! Dolly Jhunjhunwala, has earlier paid a tribute to pearls in her line Basra, won over Sachin Tendulkars daughter Sara with an embellished draped sari, emboldened with thread work in gold as well as sequins.
Kunal pursues Patolas
Kunal Rawal introduces Patola-inspired weave for grooms, turning tables on traditionality; he serenades us with denim dhotis, and comfort, to make sure reusability, and functionality co-exist at ICW 2024. By Asmita Aggarwal Remember Ranbir Kapoors hybrid dhoti, well, Kunal Rawal is the one to take risks. Even though he is young in couture, he believes he has found his feet, and often says, India is 14 countries in one the craft is diverse, and so is the market. We are a country of celebrations where marriages are auspicious, and grand, so why shouldnt couture be personalized, to suit the psyche more than the body type? Star Arjun Kapoor may not have the abs like the rest of the Bollywood toned gang, but he does have a winning attitude, whether it was giving up his seat for a lady during the show, or posing freely with his fans, he has no starry airs. Well, Aditya Roy Kapoor, is a different ball game he is suave, unshackled and seems to have fun in whatever he does, he was the ideal showstopper for Rawal. Kunal gave us mogras, the sweet smell wafted through the hall, and cushions to sit on, creating an oasis, with birds chirping and greenery. In his unique style, the show began with Gurmukhi, and then it was raining men —bearded, wearing earrings, kundals, ponytails, turbans to delicious curls. As Kala Doria played with IP Singh and Akshay Raheja, women walked in sherwanis armed with silver-edged swords. The turning of tables wasnt restricted to just shapes, Kunal convinced Aparna Bahl, the choreographer to take the cue and walk the ramp. Kunal got older, bulkier models in dhotis, he does know how to add drama, music played a big role in the presentation which had everyone foot-tapping. Culturally couture is the richest, and GenZ demand a hand-crafted product, which has a fresh thought, can be reused, has real value, comfort, of course, is king, says Kunal, adding, couture is mostly looked at for women, men were never in the game, only for the last few years, there has been a shift. Menswear, he believes, is a specialists job, thats why he admires Rick Owens for his ingenious concepts, and what Alessandro Michele did for Gucci, almost giving it a new identity. Men have clarity, are strong minded, they are loyalists, now unlike earlier, they take a keen interest in what they want to wear, he admits. For ICW 2024, the overall theme revolves around union of two minds thus, the title Sehera, the science behind auspicious dates intrigued Kunal. You want to make sure, a marriage has positivity, good energy, and favorable omen, he says. Thus, his motifs are inspired from this sentiment — betel leaves, evil eye, coconuts, wedding are soaked in a robust layer of culture, they have a distinct spiritual side. To fructify his thinking, he has come armed with a treasure trove of textileshis most potent armour is the Patola-inspired, hand woven, weave, traditionally women have loved. He has delved into Chikankari for the first time, brocades, and Bandhini are all time favourites, he created unique block prints, used silks and Ajraks to craft safas to stoles. For me, a line is successful only if it is comfortable, he adds. You can see how effortlessly his deconstructed sherwani works, or Patiala, breeches, pants are done in stretch, linings are sweat absorbent, fabrics weights are lighter, and come with an exquisite fall. The paneling in the bandhgala, is cut closer to the body, making way for exciting shapes. There is no cookie cutter method we follow, it is all about pattern play, he admits. He works on technicalities, jersey sleeves add ease in movement, he urges grooms not to go in for a mannequin look, but customize it. Taking it a step further, there is personalized lining on offer, cusping used to join pieces together, ensuring smoothness in wear. When I started, I felt there was a uniformity in menswear for weddings, the product was boring, men were dictated how they need to look. Now there has been an evolution, he explains. Personally, he admires drapes, but has only attempted a few, this time he has dhotis, even though flares are in trend, Kunal has not worked with them. He introduced nifty dropped crotches, six types of Aligarh shalwars, in modern iterations. Everything comes with lots of pockets, he reiterates. After design, music is his love, this year for the ICW 2024 show, he created five new tracks, he believes storytelling in the format of weddings excites him tremendously. Aesthetically groom wear is altering; hand crafted products are being appreciated. As a designer, I feel fortunate to be able to access varied textiles, seeped in history, he concludes.
Tytler’s Echoes of Roman Grandeur
Taking us back in time, to the Roman empire, replete with its imposing iconography, Siddartha Tytlers dark, grand line played with asymmetry, sheer and glimmering rhinestones at the ICW 2024. By Asmita Aggarwal He is the quintessential Mr Handsome Rahul Khanna, it has a lot to do with his genetics, being the son of Bollywood dreamboat Vinod Khanna, but unlike his father, he is doing fewer films, and is mostly setting Instagram on fire. At 50, if he can sizzle like that it is more to do with just looks! Mr Khanna was the showstopper at Siddartha Tytler ICW 2024 showcasing, where he told us through his line, Caligulas Feast, how decadence can be translated through extravagant ensembles, bursting with shimmer. Giving us a lesson in history — Gaius Caesar Augustus Germanicus, a Roman emperor, was assassination in 41 AD, but till he lived he courted pageantry like none other. Tytler exclaimed, He lived life large; a bit like me. The ramp was converted into a debauched feast, with a revolving stage, and a Roman bust at the centre, overflowing with flowers and lit candles, it had all the theatrics of 70 MM entertainment, and in this glamorous mix was also Malaika Arora, dressed as Tytler said, as if she is going to war donning an armour. What I am wearing is stunning, I felt like a fierce goddess, exclaimed Malaika. For the Roman emperor, known for his debauchery, and ostentation, the show paid homage to how he was also the most amazing host —thus the huge spread. On a lighter note, preparing for a show can be daunting, but Mr Khanna seemed unfazed, he laughed, I only thing I check to see is if my zip is fastened, of course I always take a few deep breaths. Khanna, who is a star amongst his fans, wore a velvet sherwani, with placement embroidery, though Aroras cutwork gown accentuated all the curves, she so diligently worked out without fail! My shoes should fit right; I should feel comfortable. I always say a prayer every single time before I hit the runway. And this garment is in addition to the many blacks I proudly own, she said, adding, I get FOMO if I dont walk the ramp. Tytlers draped gowns, complemented the imposing sets, exaggerated sleeves, charcoals, velvet as his sherwanis came with mythical golden birds flying on jackets with their beaks glistening with rhinestones. He thoroughly enjoyed adding asymmetry, played with layering and gave Malaika corsetry in gunmetal embroidery, depicting the strength he admires within her. Interestingly, the kurtas had metamorphosed, got many cousinshigh low hems, draped, pleated et al. He included faux fur, introduced cropped jackets with pants, asymmetrical dhotis, liquid fabrics that hugged the waists, and created the mood with Roman leaf-shaped emperor headbands. The dupatta draping aped the extravagance of the erstwhile kings. White and gold remains a winning combination, fabric manipulated into high-waisted skirts, more than lehengas there were options you could choose from. Kaftans as well as abundance of sheer teared through in body hugging gowns, skirts, exaggerated sleeves, exposing washboard abs and endless legs. Heavily jewel-toned jackets, large floral printed pant suits— bold was the mood. As flowers were everywhere, it was if you entered the garden of five senses, Tytler balanced louder pieces with frothier prints, rather than zardosi. Grand, dark are themes which interest me, concludes Tytler.
The War Within
Bomb blasts, barren land, soldier writings on walls and stones, how war destroys the fabric of mankind and its futility has been beautifully mirrored through deft stitches by Sushant Abrols label Countrymade. By Asmita Aggarwal From writing poetry, to working with 8-10 needlework techniques, using imagery of his late Air Force pilot brothers life-from plane fuselage to the Morse code, Sushant Abrols label Countrymade, launched in 2019 is an homage to ingenious thinking. At 33, Abrol has won the Nexa Spotlight, without ever giving up hope, even after he faced several rejections, this is thanks to his upbringing, where challenge is part of daily life. He is delighted to get a solo show, a task many veterans have been unable to achieve, complete with 30 looks, after all he is just four years old in the industry. He was clear, he will launch unconventional menswear, but not slide into the comfort zone of ethnic offerings, even though this space is till evolving. Menswear doesnt work like womens wear, the former like to touch and feel, desire right fits, and to get a repeat clientele, you need to understand and customise, says Abrol. A believer in slow growth charts, building on a strong foundation, albeit consistently, is his motto. Without spending on PR and marketing, he refuses to overexpose the brand, neither has he tested the choppy waters of influencer marketing. I havent evolved with the insta-creator economy, it has been a personal choice, he smiles, adding he wants to still stay relevant even when social media craze wanes. This is even though naysayers advise him against his decision, stating he is losing out on opportunities, but his buyers are matureartists, musicians, and architects, who come to him for elevated basics, so you do not need a Uniqlo in your life. From a distance you can tell its Abrols clothing, and it is nothing like the designers he was trained under from Rohit Bal to Jyotika Jhalani of Janavi. Though his mentor, has always been the inimitable Shahab Durazi, whom he was curious about, often called as the Armani of India. I travelled to Mumbai, met him and since then he has guided me, I always share my progress with him, says Abrol. Just like he read Vanguard, a book written on the architect of Indian fashion Rohit Khosla, by his sister Rohini. The core of this brand rests on stark neutrals, hand done embroidery, he mastered neatness, modernised khankas, refused to do animals or flowers motifs, the inspiration is intangible, like poetry which turns into art forms. Using off white threads for his embroideries, chanderis and pure silks, matkas, katyas, as well as linen, prints over embellishments is his lexicon. Men want to repeat clothing, but I see some reluctance when it comes to embroideries even though we do a lot. They are only now exposed to the beauty of woven and knitted offerings, earlier it was only checks and stripes, he says. The feeling is if it is worked on, it is feminine. Everything Abrol indulges in, comes from a personal space, even if you look at the name Countrymade, it conjures up images of hooch, liquor, or arms, but that is not what he believes. It refers to things made slowly, by hand, a labour of love, a small cottage industry, where there are no industrialised processes. In 2015, he applied for a scholarship to study at London College of fashion, but didnt bag it, little did he know that it would be a blessing in disguise as his label today is for a discerning few who value his craft. His brother remains the central character in all his collections, even the latest, titled No Mans Land. This is based on the letters he received which have been preserved till today by his mom, and when he sat down to read them again, he felt a profound sense of loss—-revisiting the pain. The letters would come with a tagline Confidential meant to be opened only by Sushant, this was today playing in the background when he saw the Russia-Ukraine war on TV. The questions that emerged were What are we fighting for? capturing the odyssey of a soldier reflecting a personal battle ensuing within. I believe in dialogue, as humans we must find a common ground, how soldiers feel after war, when he views the destruction, is my inspiration, he confirms. The line presents this dichotomy and internal confusion through clothing specially Gond art, where the stitches reflect the tyranny of barbed wires and train tracks. The extensive R and D was done viewing thousands of war imagery, from barren land, scribbles on stones and walls by soldiers wanting to vent seeing the inhospitable surroundings, that saw kantha stitches coming into play. On stamps that come on inland letters were used to show the communication, Abrol embroidered them, the detailing of thought by Countrymade is quite engaging. He created artistic impressions of trees, rivers, and mountains in no mans land, indulged in line drawing, gave a birds eye view of farmland through embroidery, the line is replete with symbolism. Bomb blasts are also shown through stitches, even capturing how stones fly with impact, I think the idea was to depict the futility of war, I hope I have conveyed that effectively, he concludes.
Moon Power
Paying homage to the moon landing and Indias homegrown space programme Pearl Academy students delve into the future to showcase how it could be the next vacation destination through metallics, anti-gravity hair and hybrid ensembles. By Asmita Aggarwal The Chandrayaan-3 mission, was a homegrown one, as the country reached the lunar south polar region, India is on the moon, Sreedhara Panicker Somanath, the chair of the Indian Space Research Organisation exclaimed. Chandrayaan-3 spacecrafts Vikram lander touched down, putting us in the league of extraordinary space power biggies. This is a victory cry of a new India, said the prime minister, Narendra Modi, as Chandrayaan-3 was launched from Sriharikota, in southern India. It is this moon odyssey that turned into a heady leitmotif for Pearl Academy fashion design and image styling students with their show titled “The Moons Echo. The twist here is, it is a journey which began with exploration in the 70s, now has Elon Musks company SpaceX, in full Space Exploration Technologies Corporation, which offers commercial space flight, based in California. With Falcon 1 rocket, it can send small satellites into orbit and with these innovations, turning it into a place where explorations and maybe in the future turn into a holiday destination. This historic win has been the theme for the graduating batch at Pearl, celebrating moon landing through puffer jackets, and grey lunar luxe. There are hints of comedy toowhere the dark side of the moon is depicted in the form of a crater. Here what is envisioned is finding water and making it a beach vacation, as guests carry their fishing rods, inflatable parachutes, backpacks, and foldable chairs. Of course, drones serve as butlers, carrying bags and hovering above. The final sequence is a celebration of sorts, vibrant characters, carrying rare earth objects, dressed like they are part of a secret society ball, a display of an avant-garde aesthetic– hoping to mimic all that the earths grandeur has to offer. The theme is inspired by the recent Indian moon landing, and depicts the seamless blending of the realms of fashion and futuristic exploration. What truly stood out were the imaginative designs that seemed to capture the essence of the concept. The show served as a reminder of one very important milestone in the history of the country, and we wanted to celebrate how India is leading the world, said Antonio Maurizio Grioli Dean School of Fashion, Pearl Academy. There are many interesting aspects of the show—from the vacuum hair resembling zero gravity and glittered up eyes. The Moons Echo presented 38 looks, and each section has been carefully divided. The moon landing is displayed through stark, grey, colourless outfits, interspersed with metallics, it was a challenge in creating the future, while building each character, with new-age construction. Sleeping bag inspired gear, texturing, layering to leather and printing, playing with volume, each element is carefully processed, says Megha Khanna, creative director of the show. Along with this there has been a deft focus on corsetry, the artistic expressions have been conveyed through 3 D printing, structures emerging are experimental, laser cutting and material manipulation. The accessories play with form and materials, add depth to the clothing, from metal to punk, dresses get converted into jackets becoming shape shifters, sometimes two garments are amalgamated to make one, she explains. Interestingly, the headgears have been crafted out of household equipmentoxygen pipes, neck pillows, to give circular patterns and harnesses have been added for strength. The creativity and passion of Pearl Academy students was visible as the show ended with an overwhelming celebration of vivacity through colour and picture-perfect moments.
Sari Stories
From jersey to satin Shweta Kapoors saris tell us you can walk the talk with this slithering drape, as she adds an 80s touch to it, this season. By Asmita Aggarwal